@higlander: I connected the zeroes together on mine, but be sure to double check as Ian said.
@Puffin: If the input voltage is less than the regulator output plus the min dropout for the reg (see datasheet) then forget about it. For example, if the min dropout for a 7812 is 2 volts then you need an absolute bare minimum of 14 volts for it to function - ideally a tad more than just to be on the safe side.
@Puffin: If the input voltage is less than the regulator output plus the min dropout for the reg (see datasheet) then forget about it. For example, if the min dropout for a 7812 is 2 volts then you need an absolute bare minimum of 14 volts for it to function - ideally a tad more than just to be on the safe side.
Sorry don't know the position numbers without whipping the lid off
Does it matter?
EDIT: from memory there are 4 clustered together near where the HDAMS are/were, and some in other positions
I'm fairly sure it does matter?????? Seems a bit of a strange comment to be honest!!!
I would just replace random resistors with 12v regs as it will definitely make a different sound!!!!!!!!.....
......no don't do that!!!!!!!!!
Grab the circuit from the service manual and start to try and read it.
I think what you are asking is about the function of R651,652,653&654. These resistors are in the +-/12v supply to the HDAMs.
There are also similar resistors in the same supply to the opamps R613,614,615&616.
The 12v regs (Q801 & 802) supply area's of the player, HDAMs, output stage opamps and headphones Opamp. The resistors will act to protect the area they are supplying and fail under high current load in the event of a fault. They also help to separate the various devices connected to the supply and reduces the noise of 1 circuit effecting another. You could remove them and link them out which would remove the protection and separation and allow for faster high current delivery as and when its required or you could follow Rays list and replace them with inductors and ferrite beads. Ultimately, you may want to feed in separate regulators directly to each circuit.
Most people who have modded will have disabled the headphones stage by removing C901 &902 which will isolate the signal path and then remove the links U271 & 272 which will isolate the supply to the headphones Opamp. This means you now only have the HDAM and output stage running off the +/-12v regs.
If you have already taken the player to a reasonable level, you may have bypassed the HDAMs meaning you no longer need to supply power to them. In this case, you can remove R651-654 which will isolate them from the power supply.
Now you would only have the output stage supplied from the regs! These supplies are via R613-616. As previously stated, you could link out (short) or replace with inductors/ferrite or even now run 4 regs direct instead of Q801&2.
Hopefully the picture will help you to understand
Red arrows are for +12v and blue for -12v
I think Brent was running 15v regs and a DOS. The 18v tx will work but the regs will work harder and get hotter!
With respect to the transformer secondaries, connect the transformers up with out the secondary windings connected to the player. Configure the windings and check the voltages with a meter. If the windings start to get warm and the voltages are not as expected, then it's wrong. It depends on the transformer make and how it's wound but I'd start with 2&3 together
Use Brent's diagrams to make sure you have it connected correctly and check with the service manual
Thank you Ian for your advise.
You mentioned Brent's diagrams could you please show me the link where I can find it ? I cannot recall I have seen this diagram in the forum
I think Brent's diagrams show how he has the transformers individually connected for each discrete part of the circuit that has its own transformer.
The details for the transformer connectivity are in the service manual so if you've not got one yet, head on over to Rays site and grab a copy. You'll get a better response from most if you've attempted to understand what you are looking to do ;-)
The details for the transformer connectivity are in the service manual so if you've not got one yet, head on over to Rays site and grab a copy. You'll get a better response from most if you've attempted to understand what you are looking to do ;-)
I'm fairly sure it does matter?????? Seems a bit of a strange comment to be honest!!!
I would just replace random resistors with 12v regs as it will definitely make a different sound!!!!!!!!.....
......no don't do that!!!!!!!!!
Grab the circuit from the service manual and start to try and read it.
I think what you are asking is about the function of R651,652,653&654. These resistors are in the +-/12v supply to the HDAMs.
There are also similar resistors in the same supply to the opamps R613,614,615&616.
The 12v regs (Q801 & 802) supply area's of the player, HDAMs, output stage opamps and headphones Opamp. The resistors will act to protect the area they are supplying and fail under high current load in the event of a fault. They also help to separate the various devices connected to the supply and reduces the noise of 1 circuit effecting another. You could remove them and link them out which would remove the protection and separation and allow for faster high current delivery as and when its required or you could follow Rays list and replace them with inductors and ferrite beads. Ultimately, you may want to feed in separate regulators directly to each circuit.
Most people who have modded will have disabled the headphones stage by removing C901 &902 which will isolate the signal path and then remove the links U271 & 272 which will isolate the supply to the headphones Opamp. This means you now only have the HDAM and output stage running off the +/-12v regs.
If you have already taken the player to a reasonable level, you may have bypassed the HDAMs meaning you no longer need to supply power to them. In this case, you can remove R651-654 which will isolate them from the power supply.
Now you would only have the output stage supplied from the regs! These supplies are via R613-616. As previously stated, you could link out (short) or replace with inductors/ferrite or even now run 4 regs direct instead of Q801&2.
Hopefully the picture will help you to understand
Red arrows are for +12v and blue for -12v
Thanks for your reply. My comment was not meant to be flippant
I have disabled the HDAM circuit. I note what you say about now removing the resistors that supplied the now redundant HDAM circuit.
Thanks
Rob.
Well, actually I have gone through the service manual but the CD63's stock transformer have combined secondaries in one unit. In my previous thread I have figured out how the connections are to be made and Ben has kindly confirmed to me that I am correct
. However I need to be very sure the wiring connection of the 3 independent transformers to replace the stock transformer are 100% correct in order not to cause damages to my PCB where I had made certain modifications.Ben has kindly confirmed that the wiring for the 3 Transformers are correct, i.e:
U305 - 12V in from 5VA Tx
U306 - 18V in from 15VA Tx
U307 - 18V in from 15VA Tx
U308 - 12V in from 50VA Tx
U309 - Ground for the 3 Tx
U310 - 12V in from 50VA Tx
U311 - 12V in from 5VA TX
U312 - 12V in after passing through the 16.4ohm resistor.
Hope you can also shed some light on it. Thanks.
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The windings are explained in the SE/KI manual
http://www.raylectronics.nl/manuals/CD53_63_MKII_SE_KI_doc.pdf
be careful as the winding connections you use for the display (U311 and U312) do not go to the gnd
http://www.raylectronics.nl/manuals/CD53_63_MKII_SE_KI_doc.pdf
be careful as the winding connections you use for the display (U311 and U312) do not go to the gnd
re diodes
Been doing a comparison test on diodes for the psu anyone tried vishay 1n5062 im amazed by them, tried hexfreds and few others .Any thoughts .
thx alan
Also ive changed lm4562s to lme49720s better opamp before i go to dos left it to settle for a few weeks now the itch is back???
Been doing a comparison test on diodes for the psu anyone tried vishay 1n5062 im amazed by them, tried hexfreds and few others .Any thoughts .
thx alan
Also ive changed lm4562s to lme49720s better opamp before i go to dos left it to settle for a few weeks now the itch is back???
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Been doing a comparison test on diodes for the psu anyone tried vishay 1n5062 im amazed by them, tried hexfreds and few others .Any thoughts .
thx alan
Also ive changed lm4562s to lme49720s better opamp before i go to dos left it to settle for a few weeks now the itch is back???
I have just ordered more than 10 pcs of 1n5062 to replace all the psu diodes and I hope there will be improvements in SQ.
BTW presently I am also using LM4562 and am considering to purchase a pair of Burson discrete opamps but I need to find some more feedbacks before a final decision is to be made.
I've not tried those diodes although Ive removed similar looking ones to replace with hexfreds. To be honest, I'm not sure that diodes make a significant change on their own. In fact I'd go so far as to say I'm not sure I could tell the difference on a blind test but I do believe they form part of the overall picture. Often many subtle changes add up to something more significant.
With respect to the Bursons, I have several that I've used as singles in TDA1541 I/V, duals that I've used in the 63 and my preamp. I think they are better than the 4562 but the HA version is exceptional and I would struggle to justify the burson over it. If you start to sort out the psu with decent caps and low noise regs, you be better with Bursons but on std regs I'd say not.
If you are thinking about Burson, you would definitely be better off with the DOS. Have a look on Rays site, he has boards ;-)
With respect to the Bursons, I have several that I've used as singles in TDA1541 I/V, duals that I've used in the 63 and my preamp. I think they are better than the 4562 but the HA version is exceptional and I would struggle to justify the burson over it. If you start to sort out the psu with decent caps and low noise regs, you be better with Bursons but on std regs I'd say not.
If you are thinking about Burson, you would definitely be better off with the DOS. Have a look on Rays site, he has boards ;-)
Here's what I'm doing:
I'm building 5 dual 15V DC supplies (i.e. 10 total) with Nuvotem encapsulated toroids and 22,000uF Mundorf smoothers. I'm going to use these to supply the regulator for each 5V chip pin :-D
Is this player worth spending so much money on?
Right. As I mentioned in my previous thread I am in the process of replacing the stock transformer with 3 independent torroidal transformers. If I finish with that one I will change the 7812 and 7912 on the analogue rail with two sPowers as well as two 22000uF caps. That would pave way for the Burson dual opamps (or DOS as you have suggested).
For the rectifiers I have also ordered 1N5819 Schottky diodes and I will compare them with 1N5062 Avalanche rectifiers at a later stage. As you said I don't think there will be a lot of differences.
I'm hoping to cram them in the case, actually. I currently have a bunch of the 'off-piste' LM317 regulators with LEDs in there, but I'm working up to something better - just not sure what. I'd ideally like to build them myself because that's half the fun.
That's a tough question to answer, and must've been covered several times in this thread. It's just a hobby at the end of the day.
Anyway, this wasn't even that spendy as hi-fi stuff goes. I got a 10 or 15% discount on the transformers and 40% off the caps. The rest of the bits will be peanuts.