Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Jump to Latest
L

lymmlad

Member
Joined 2011
Could someone please help? I was attempting to understand what was required for the mods to the output stage from Brent's list (below) and was working my way through the circuit diagram:

Lets assume we are removing the HDAM section that ultimately holds back the performance of the cd player.
Remove C611, C612, C613 & C614 and replace with something like a Rubycon ZA / ZLG 16V 470uF
Remove Q605 & Q606 and replace with a LME49720HA or Burson dual
Short out R613, R614, R61 & R616
Remove R651, R652, R653 & R654
Remove the muting transistors
Remove R617 & R618 and wire from this point direct to the output socket
Change the signal capacitors around the opamp with something like a polystyrene cap

Could someone please help me understand the final statement on the list and let me know the component numbers and values of poly caps required? Also did I read something on this thread somewhere that the caps should be matched very closely?

Thanks very much.
 
Ben Hanke

Ben Hanke

Member
Joined 2007
If you look at the service manual there are some small value caps in the filter around the op-amps. The values are all measured in pF rather than uF. They're film caps in the CD63 - brown or orange blobs if I remember correctly. You'll see them if you take the lid off. C601 - C604 are some examples - the full list is in the datasheet. I swapped those for 1% silver mica in my player.
 
P

Puffin

Member
Joined 2006
Up-Date. Since adding the regs (fancy and standard) and ripple eater (see my previous posts) I can say that in the week or two since these were done the 63 is now sounding really really good. Much more substantial, more coherent and the rather glassy treble (forward?) is mostly gone.

I might now add a separate PS for the regs.
 
R

rcfm2u

Member
Joined 2010
Looking for help in repairing my CD63 tray problem. Each time I press the tray open/close button (and even by using the remote open/close button), the tray comes out half way and then goes back in again. I don't even have the chance to put a CD into the tray. Sometimes the tray comes out fully, and I can put in a CD for listening. But the problem starts again when I want to remove the disc. Pressing the open/close tray will cause the tray to come out halfway and then goes in for no reason.
Any particular component that might be causing this problem? I've tried changing the belting, but the problem is still there.
Ron.
 
Ben Hanke

Ben Hanke

Member
Joined 2007
Captain Noob here - based on some of my less successful experiences, I wouldn't personally advise replacing any of the small ceramic decoupling caps with Black Gates. Also be aware that the BG NXs will likely take a long time to settle in (roughly a gajillion years), especially if they've never been used before. I personally really like the 470uF FKs on the DAC analogue supplies, where I found they really made a difference in my player. I put NXs on all the digital supplies more because it seemed like a good idea and they fit nicely with the very little room that the FKs allow. I can't say I necessarily heard a big improvement from them though.
 
Ben Hanke

Ben Hanke

Member
Joined 2007
If you look at page 6 of the service manual, there is a diagram of the DAC pins and a table listing what each one does. Each of the power supply pins has a ground to go with it, and if you trace back along both tracks on the PCB or the schematic on page 10 you'll see one ceramic and one electrolytic capacitor bridging the two. The ceramic caps are non-polar and can go either way, whereas the electrolytics have a dot on the ground side where the cathode goes.

So, for example, pin 16 = Power Supply (Digital) and 15 = GND (Digital). They're decoupled by CD06 and CD07.

If you trace further back the +'ve tracks you'll see that all of these supplies are ultimately connected to a single shared rail, usually connected by a resistor. If you remove these resistors, you can feed separate regulated supplies to the analogue and digital pins of each chip. You can then put the best decoupling cap for the job for each supply type, e.g. something like a Black Gate STD/FK/Silmic/etc. works well on the analogue supplies and something like a Sanyo OSCON/BG NX on the digital.

I hope this helps.
 
L

lymmlad

Member
Joined 2011
Ben Hanke said:
If you look at the service manual there are some small value caps in the filter around the op-amps. The values are all measured in pF rather than uF. They're film caps in the CD63 - brown or orange blobs if I remember correctly. You'll see them if you take the lid off. C601 - C604 are some examples - the full list is in the datasheet. I swapped those for 1% silver mica in my player.
Click to expand...

Ben, thanks very much for this.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom