Lots of things can cause this, Alan - (I have first-hand experience of a few!) - startup delay, loose clock connection, broken pads on certain capacitors... Is clocking the DAC all you've done?
Btw, did some more op-amp cap rolling. I realized I was missing some HF detail with the 470uF BG STDs I was trying so put the Ns back in with some of those WIMA MKS4 220ns tagged across them for kicks. I like the Ns much better overall. The WIMAs don't seem to be doing any harm on first listen. I've previously tried tagging some 100n of the smaller, cheaper kind across before and hated them.
I'll need to work up some courage to try the DOS again, Ray. I've simultaneously got a sound that I like and a working display for the first time in ages.
Btw, did some more op-amp cap rolling. I realized I was missing some HF detail with the 470uF BG STDs I was trying so put the Ns back in with some of those WIMA MKS4 220ns tagged across them for kicks. I like the Ns much better overall. The WIMAs don't seem to be doing any harm on first listen. I've previously tried tagging some 100n of the smaller, cheaper kind across before and hated them.
I'll need to work up some courage to try the DOS again, Ray. I've simultaneously got a sound that I like and a working display for the first time in ages.
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Yes, you'd better be careful... these players are delicate creatures. The board traces are clearly not made for multiple soldering attempts.
But you can also test the DOS board outside the player. Just hook it up to a +/- supply and use the line-out from your player as a signal source
Ray
But you can also test the DOS board outside the player. Just hook it up to a +/- supply and use the line-out from your player as a signal source
Ray
Yes it does, it's just a circuit that sums two signals and amplifies it a bit. The passive filter at the input smooths the PWM square wave that comes out of the DAC.
But you can also use a line signal at the inputs to check the circuit. Just connect one output of the player to +In and GND and there should be signal at the DOS' output if all is working as it should. Then connect it to -In and GND to see if the other half is working. Don't connect them simultaneously, because they will cancel out and you'll hear nothing. You can adjust the volume with the player's remote in case the input signal is a bit too loud and you hear distortion.
Ray
But you can also use a line signal at the inputs to check the circuit. Just connect one output of the player to +In and GND and there should be signal at the DOS' output if all is working as it should. Then connect it to -In and GND to see if the other half is working. Don't connect them simultaneously, because they will cancel out and you'll hear nothing
. You can adjust the volume with the player's remote in case the input signal is a bit too loud and you hear distortion.Ray
Hi all, sorry to bring up what I'm sure is in the thread somewhere. (Have been trolling through for days but have not found it yet).
I have done the usual PS cap and diode upgrades, various EL caps around the rest of the board, the opamps, removed headphone feed, (It works up to here), have just removed muting transistors (do I need to do anything else with these except remove?) and have now removed the DC blocking caps.
My question is with the DC blocking caps and C660/C659 removed, do I just run a jumper from C656 through to start of R660? Also, if I don't upgrade R660 per Ray's mods list will it still be ok with the existing value? I haven't yet bipassed the HDAM as I was waiting til after the clock upgrade. (hopefully next).
I also made the mistake of starting from the....well...start of the thread and then realised Ray had updated his list. Have just ordered the 22000uf PS caps to replace the ones I have already replaced. Serves me right for ordering before reading...
Thanks
Kris
I have done the usual PS cap and diode upgrades, various EL caps around the rest of the board, the opamps, removed headphone feed, (It works up to here), have just removed muting transistors (do I need to do anything else with these except remove?) and have now removed the DC blocking caps.
My question is with the DC blocking caps and C660/C659 removed, do I just run a jumper from C656 through to start of R660? Also, if I don't upgrade R660 per Ray's mods list will it still be ok with the existing value? I haven't yet bipassed the HDAM as I was waiting til after the clock upgrade. (hopefully next).
I also made the mistake of starting from the....well...start of the thread and then realised Ray had updated his list. Have just ordered the 22000uf PS caps to replace the ones I have already replaced. Serves me right for ordering before reading...
Thanks
Kris
@Ray: Thanks, that makes sense. I'll let you know how I get on!
@bousie: Assuming you've upgraded op-amps, output filter and PSU caps, I'd say get yourself a some quality RCAs and some good signal wire (I use CMC 805 and Kimber TCSS), remove the thin wire bridges that take signal to the HDAM section and wire straight from there. Remember to disconnect the power to the HDAM. You might as well cut the signal trace that leads all the way down to the headphone socket while you're at it. Make sure you measure DC offset before you connect to amp though, or add some good film caps. I use 3.3uF Mundorf Silver/Oil.
@bousie: Assuming you've upgraded op-amps, output filter and PSU caps, I'd say get yourself a some quality RCAs and some good signal wire (I use CMC 805 and Kimber TCSS), remove the thin wire bridges that take signal to the HDAM section and wire straight from there. Remember to disconnect the power to the HDAM. You might as well cut the signal trace that leads all the way down to the headphone socket while you're at it. Make sure you measure DC offset before you connect to amp though, or add some good film caps. I use 3.3uF Mundorf Silver/Oil.
I think it's c901 & 902 that cut the signal to the headphones from memory.
Yep just checked. Also remove U271 & 272 to remove power from the headphones opamp.
You should also remove the 4 psu supply resistors to the HDAM if you are bypassing it R651-654.
This will mean the +/-12v rails are now only servicing the opamps. The opamps should also be swapped for lm4562 or lme49720 with ZLG 470uF local caps (c611-614).
Yep just checked. Also remove U271 & 272 to remove power from the headphones opamp.
You should also remove the 4 psu supply resistors to the HDAM if you are bypassing it R651-654.
This will mean the +/-12v rails are now only servicing the opamps. The opamps should also be swapped for lm4562 or lme49720 with ZLG 470uF local caps (c611-614).
Thanks Ben & Ian.
yep, PSU caps, output filter, and opamps upgraded. (BP627 on adaptors.. another product of reading earlier in the thread). U271 &272 removed already.
So if I wire direct from before U214 and U218 to the RCA do I need any resistors or will it be ok without?
Also, what is an acceptable DC offset?
yep, PSU caps, output filter, and opamps upgraded. (BP627 on adaptors.. another product of reading earlier in the thread). U271 &272 removed already.
So if I wire direct from before U214 and U218 to the RCA do I need any resistors or will it be ok without?
Also, what is an acceptable DC offset?
Hi
I have an update on the 63
2 months I decided to get a new cd player as mine got an hairline crack in the pcb after messing about with it and I could not be bothered to rebuild all the work I had previously done as it would have taken months. I tested a range of cd players from Naim, Marantz, dCs etc etc right up to the £10K range. All of which I had upgraded and non gave better detail, imaging, bass than the 63 and certainly less analogue sounding. I took on board what had been done to these players and where it could be pushed for the better sound and unfortunately most designs fell short.
In came a Marantz SA-7S1 I had previously upgraded for more work. After this work I was amazed at the sound it was producing. It was pretty much there on par with my 63. So the search started and I investigated and in the end bought a SA-11S2. I bought this player as I prefer the looks of it! oh and it has the same parts as the 7S1 apart from the transformer is a little smaller but this has no impact on the sound to be honest.
It arrived last week and after a 15 minute listening session I started to strip it down. The player is quite simply stunning with upgrades (no clocks fitted yet as I have the 67.7376Mhz oscillators on order) - Marantz SA-11S2 upgrades
It was a sad day stripping out the 63 but have just about got over it now.
Brent
I have an update on the 63
2 months I decided to get a new cd player as mine got an hairline crack in the pcb after messing about with it and I could not be bothered to rebuild all the work I had previously done as it would have taken months. I tested a range of cd players from Naim, Marantz, dCs etc etc right up to the £10K range. All of which I had upgraded and non gave better detail, imaging, bass than the 63 and certainly less analogue sounding. I took on board what had been done to these players and where it could be pushed for the better sound and unfortunately most designs fell short.
In came a Marantz SA-7S1 I had previously upgraded for more work. After this work I was amazed at the sound it was producing. It was pretty much there on par with my 63. So the search started and I investigated and in the end bought a SA-11S2. I bought this player as I prefer the looks of it! oh and it has the same parts as the 7S1
apart from the transformer is a little smaller but this has no impact on the sound to be honest.It arrived last week and after a 15 minute listening session I started to strip it down. The player is quite simply stunning with upgrades (no clocks fitted yet as I have the 67.7376Mhz oscillators on order) - Marantz SA-11S2 upgrades
It was a sad day stripping out the 63 but have just about got over it now.
Brent
I have a few not to good images. You can't see all of the work that has been done. There is a lot under the mech on the servo board.
The largest capacitor is a Mundorf AG 25V 47000uF before the servo 5v reg measuring 52 x 35 They don't look big in the pics as the player itself is fairly chunky.
Brent
The largest capacitor is a Mundorf AG 25V 47000uF before the servo 5v reg measuring 52 x 35
They don't look big in the pics as the player itself is fairly chunky.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Brent