So after some negotiation, I've come to an agreement with the seller and I'm now waiting for a partial refund. I expected a reasonable condition CD67 mkII OSE to arrive but unfortunately the seller used a library picture and I got what you can see in the pics a player that functions but is in a very bad state. The front panel isn't really salvageable but I may just get it stripped and plated to use on my own player which is in a 67 chassis as there is a little more room. Any way after some swapping about, I now have a working mkII 67 OSE in a MKi SE case!!! Not really what I wanted but it'll go back on eBay in excellent condition after xmas and hopefully contribute to funding my unhealthy obsession!!! Just sold a KI last week so I'm down to 5 of the 63/67 variety now lol!
In fairness to the seller, I'd actually asked for the post to be moderated to hide his identity which hopefully will be done when the mods have time.
Cant believe this is xmas no4 for me here and I'm a latecomer to the party!
Happy Christmas chaps, enjoy and be merry!
In fairness to the seller, I'd actually asked for the post to be moderated to hide his identity which hopefully will be done when the mods have time.
Cant believe this is xmas no4 for me here and I'm a latecomer to the party!
Happy Christmas chaps, enjoy and be merry!
Merry Christmas guys!
(For those who are new or don't remember, I used to haunt this thread a few years ago.)
I haven't taken my CD63 (also in a CD67SE case by the way) apart for a couple of years now!
You could say I'm cured. There is hope for you Ian!
Mind you, I stopped after my third player, I fear you may be past the point of no return.
(For those who are new or don't remember, I used to haunt this thread a few years ago.)
I haven't taken my CD63 (also in a CD67SE case by the way) apart for a couple of years now!
You could say I'm cured. There is hope for you Ian!
Mind you, I stopped after my third player, I fear you may be past the point of no return.
The use of library pictures, without stating so, gives you the right to reject the item on the grounds of " Not as described".
In my opinion, the practise should be banned!
He should have stated that he had "renovated" the case.
Aside from that, "Best wishes to all for the New Year"
I'm at home for Xmas and New Year ( for a change )
Listening to the latest Chickenfoot CD
Andy
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Hi guys,
I built a PSU for my Fleas yesterday. I'm quite proud of it except for the fact that the 7818s don't seem to be behaving properly and I can't figure out why. According to my meter, they're both putting out 26.2 volts. I played with it all day today to no avail; tried inserting resistors to drop the input voltage and the output just scales accordingly, subtracting the voltage drop of the reg but not regulating it to 18v. I'm running out of ideas. Anyway, it looks quite nice
I built a PSU for my Fleas yesterday. I'm quite proud of it except for the fact that the 7818s don't seem to be behaving properly and I can't figure out why. According to my meter, they're both putting out 26.2 volts. I played with it all day today to no avail; tried inserting resistors to drop the input voltage and the output just scales accordingly, subtracting the voltage drop of the reg but not regulating it to 18v. I'm running out of ideas. Anyway, it looks quite nice
Look here. The center pin of a 78xx is known as GND. It should be tied to the - of the buffer cap and the - of the output. If it's left floating, the regulator can't regulate (?) . It will just output the voltage that's present at the input, minus a small drop. Looks like that's your problem here.
You need an output cap for stability as well.
Ray
. It will just output the voltage that's present at the input, minus a small drop. Looks like that's your problem here.You need an output cap for stability as well.
Ray
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Hey Ray, that's exactly how I have it set up. I thought you meant it needed some other ground connection, e.g. to the mains or chassis. The differences to your schematic are 2200uF input cap versus 1000uF (just what I had handy), no output cap (I did try 10uF and 47uF with no effect), and a 1k resistor and blue LED connected in series between OUT and GND.
Meter says input to reg is 37v, which is over max. Not sure why, as secondaries are 15v. That's slightly over the 35v limit. I wonder if I fried them...? Seems unlikely. I will add output caps again, perhaps an input resistor to bring to more like 25v and maybe take a trip to buy new regs.
Ben,
Look at the schematic and double check that you have wired the bridge with the diodes the correct way around.
If the transformer has 15V secondary windings have you mistakenly connected the wires from two different secondary windings into the same bridge (2x15xsqrt(2) = 42v) and thus have a floating ground ?
Jon
Look at the schematic and double check that you have wired the bridge with the diodes the correct way around.
If the transformer has 15V secondary windings have you mistakenly connected the wires from two different secondary windings into the same bridge (2x15xsqrt(2) = 42v) and thus have a floating ground ?
Jon
Thanks for the ideas everyone. I woke up at 5am thinking about this thing, so now I'm up and multimetering.
DC measures 32v at the board input, but 37v across the cap terminals and reg input pins. I've checked the diode directions, and double checked that the ground pins are connected. I've confirmed that there's no connectivity between the two circuits and that the secondaries are wired correctly. I can run either or both circuits with no effect. I've tried different output caps in the range 10uF to 100uF, also with no effect. I've tried powering from both 110v and 220v inputs with the same results: a steady 26.2v output on both sides as measured by my meter across the output terminals.
I'm conscious of the fact that I'm taking the thread a bit off topic and that I should probably move this somewhere else until I'm at installation stage.
DC measures 32v at the board input, but 37v across the cap terminals and reg input pins. I've checked the diode directions, and double checked that the ground pins are connected. I've confirmed that there's no connectivity between the two circuits and that the secondaries are wired correctly. I can run either or both circuits with no effect. I've tried different output caps in the range 10uF to 100uF, also with no effect. I've tried powering from both 110v and 220v inputs with the same results: a steady 26.2v output on both sides as measured by my meter across the output terminals.
I'm conscious of the fact that I'm taking the thread a bit off topic and that I should probably move this somewhere else until I'm at installation stage.
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Conclusion: your meter is defective. That's what you get when you buy a muktimeter...
You say 'DC measures 32v at the board input' but I assume that must be AC? If so, this is still way too high for a single 15V winding. You're using 120V input at Blue and Grey? There should be about 19V AC present between Red/Black and Orange/Yellow. Try measuring without the board connected.
Ray
You say 'DC measures 32v at the board input' but I assume that must be AC? If so, this is still way too high for a single 15V winding. You're using 120V input at Blue and Grey? There should be about 19V AC present between Red/Black and Orange/Yellow. Try measuring without the board connected.
Ray