It has some extra circuity for doing this, often called the LDI circuit.
Look here on page 11 - http://www.audioupgrades.co.uk/manuals/74CD17_SM_MARANTZ_EN.pdf
All that to add pitch contol to a cd17
Brent
Look here on page 11 - http://www.audioupgrades.co.uk/manuals/74CD17_SM_MARANTZ_EN.pdf
All that to add pitch contol to a cd17
Brent
Knowing a few DJs they use the pitch on their Techinics decks for adding a little extra speed to the dance music (lifting the bpm) typically by +0.5. Sometimes the clever dj will adjust the pitch of one deck to match the bpm of the next track they are fading in from another deck so that it sounds more seamless
The standard pitch of your player will be fine
Brent
The standard pitch of your player will be fine
Brent
LOL, yeh it's called mixing, or beat-matching
I think vinyl might spin at the wrong speed only if it has a motor running off an unregulated supply or one that is badly regulated. I can't think how else it would change, not at least due to supply voltage.
Silver coating ?!?
What about gold plating the entire chassis ?
Like this ? Luxury Loudspeakers by Gold Acoustics
Ricardo
What about gold plating the entire chassis ?
Like this ? Luxury Loudspeakers by Gold Acoustics
Ricardo
So the only difference between gold and lead is it preciousness (Soundwise I mean)
I covered the inside of my CDP with bitumem and it helped removing it´s vulnerability to external input.
Personally I like true heavy copper chassis with wood feet and wood damped metal coverings.
Concrete is also good (I heard some concrete speakers that produced a very neutral sound)
Ricardo
(Soundwise I mean)I covered the inside of my CDP with bitumem and it helped removing it´s vulnerability to external input.
Personally I like true heavy copper chassis with wood feet and wood damped metal coverings.
Concrete is also good (I heard some concrete speakers that produced a very neutral sound)
Ricardo
Lead is dense, inert and a radiation shield. Gold is expensive and an excellent conducter. Seriously though; since there isn't a whole lot left to be discovered after 1400 pages I should imagine, in the saga "how to turn a sow's ear into a silk purse", I was turning my attention to how to "tune" the case-work of the Marantz, to wring the last ounce of detail out of it. We take for granted the beneficial effect of bitumin sheet damping so why ignore other ways and means. If you look at the older hi-end Sony and Marantz players, they spent a lot of attention to this, so what's to say there arn't unexplored avenues concerning the rather cheap construction of the 63 and 67's?
I met a gentleman once who used lead-sheet damping extensively and swore by it.
He also said that a sheet of acrylic underneath transformers made an audible and worthwhile difference by reducing eddy currents in the chassis. I believe him too, he was a professor of materials science or something that means the same, lol.
84 years old and still has good ears, has a lathe in his garage and builds excellent tonearms for a hobby.
Basically, I'd try the lead and see what you think.
Lee.
He also said that a sheet of acrylic underneath transformers made an audible and worthwhile difference by reducing eddy currents in the chassis. I believe him too, he was a professor of materials science or something that means the same, lol.
84 years old and still has good ears, has a lathe in his garage and builds excellent tonearms for a hobby.
Basically, I'd try the lead and see what you think.
Lee.
Thanks for taking me seriously! I'm not sure how or where to attach the lead sheeting; either glued or otherwise secured to the metal-work of the case or use a bitumin sheet (I wrote sheep"!) as a sandwich. I guess just adding mass on the sides and bottom plate is enough? When is enough, enough??? anyone chancing on this thread would probably have given up on page 100! but then they wouldn't be like us; dredging for the last tiny missing bit.
Last edited:
Adding lead will change the sound but it might not be better. I'd suggest reading up on speaker cabinet design, rack and "isolation" platform design, that sort of thing.
With speakers the vibrations are inevitable but there are different approaches to dealing with them. Some try to shift them towards low frequencies where they can accentuate the bass (B&W apparently choose this on many models), some choose to shift them up with more rigid boxes to where they are less likely to become excited (less energy higher up the range in music) - plywood comes to mind. Many use MDF because it's well damped and easy to work with, but far from perfect. Some even make metal speakers but they can ring so need careful damping from other materials. And many, especially in DIY, just make their speakers really, really heavy and chunky in the hopes that they won't get excited by vibrations much at all. Some of us even avoid speaker cabinets in the first place as we hate resonances that much!
Hi-fi racks seem to come in 3 main guises. The first are the common metal and glass things which are dreadful and give poor sound due to being heavy and poorly damped. The second category I would say are ones that try to isolate each shelf or the whole rack from the ground by suspending it on an air cushion, electro-magnet etc. Seismic sink, for example. The DIY version is to put a plinth on a bike inner tube and deflate it till the platform moves at 1-2hz, that sort of thing. A third way is what people like Russ Andrews do and to make the rack have good resonance characteristics (low mass and broadband resonance - wood) and couple rigidly to the ground, to somehow let the vibes "escape" or be "sinked" to the heavier mass of the ground.
Just some amateur thoughts of different approaches to think about, hope it helps.
I should point out that there's more to consider with electronics - RF and EMI shielding, eddy currents, what gives the transport mechanism an easy time and dust protection all spring to mind. Acrylic and wood are possibly good because they have good resonance characteristics and being non-metallic don't allow eddy currents. If I could pay an infinite sum to have something made for me it would probably be made mainly from acrylic as it seems to have good audio properties and looks interesting.
Simon
With speakers the vibrations are inevitable but there are different approaches to dealing with them. Some try to shift them towards low frequencies where they can accentuate the bass (B&W apparently choose this on many models), some choose to shift them up with more rigid boxes to where they are less likely to become excited (less energy higher up the range in music) - plywood comes to mind. Many use MDF because it's well damped and easy to work with, but far from perfect. Some even make metal speakers but they can ring so need careful damping from other materials. And many, especially in DIY, just make their speakers really, really heavy and chunky in the hopes that they won't get excited by vibrations much at all. Some of us even avoid speaker cabinets in the first place as we hate resonances that much!
Hi-fi racks seem to come in 3 main guises. The first are the common metal and glass things which are dreadful and give poor sound due to being heavy and poorly damped. The second category I would say are ones that try to isolate each shelf or the whole rack from the ground by suspending it on an air cushion, electro-magnet etc. Seismic sink, for example. The DIY version is to put a plinth on a bike inner tube and deflate it till the platform moves at 1-2hz, that sort of thing. A third way is what people like Russ Andrews do and to make the rack have good resonance characteristics (low mass and broadband resonance - wood) and couple rigidly to the ground, to somehow let the vibes "escape" or be "sinked" to the heavier mass of the ground.
Just some amateur thoughts of different approaches to think about, hope it helps.
I should point out that there's more to consider with electronics - RF and EMI shielding, eddy currents, what gives the transport mechanism an easy time and dust protection all spring to mind. Acrylic and wood are possibly good because they have good resonance characteristics and being non-metallic don't allow eddy currents. If I could pay an infinite sum to have something made for me it would probably be made mainly from acrylic as it seems to have good audio properties and looks interesting.
Simon
Last edited: