Hi,
sorry to jump in when this thread seems to have come such a long way but I am a novice looking to install an external clock (rockclock) and external psu.
I have generic instructions but can anyone give some more specific instruction on the cd63 mkII ki sig? What do I physically need to do to the existing clock set-up and where exactly do I take the power supply for the psu from. Pictures would be very useful!
thanks
Hi, Would need a bit more info. Do you have the PSU for the clock already or are you just looking to install the clock 1st? Do you have a copy of the service manual? If not, get it from Rays pages (see 1st entry in this thread) then we can point a components on the board for you. Let us have as much info as poss and we'll help!
stevief
thanks for the response.
Yes I have the psu so am looking to install both together. I have the service manual from ray's pages.
Think I know what to do with the psu (from ray's pictures)but its what to remove exactly and where to connect the external rockclock.
I will then probably install opamps and bypass the hdam as talked about in the early stages of this thread.
thanks again
thanks for the response.
Yes I have the psu so am looking to install both together. I have the service manual from ray's pages.
Think I know what to do with the psu (from ray's pictures)but its what to remove exactly and where to connect the external rockclock.
I will then probably install opamps and bypass the hdam as talked about in the early stages of this thread.
thanks again
Hi, Ray's website is really a gold mine,
Ray's Audio Page
Remove U196 and feed your clock here re-using the free hole near the center of the player. Remove CD02/CD03 and use a ground here, outside hole.
As for me I made the first regulated drivers in a CD-43... wich I don't know how to call, 53 or 43... can't hear if it's better with the other parts being OEM. I'm hoping the heatsink will be enough...
Ray's Audio Page
Remove U196 and feed your clock here re-using the free hole near the center of the player. Remove CD02/CD03 and use a ground here, outside hole.
As for me I made the first regulated drivers in a CD-43... wich I don't know how to call, 53 or 43... can't hear if it's better with the other parts being OEM. I'm hoping the heatsink will be enough...
Attachments
Pretty much as Matthieu said with the clock!
Another source of info is here acoustica.org.uk: modifying the Marantz CD63, part 1.
Another good free upgrade is to remove the output caps. There shouldn't be any DC on the output so you can just link these out. The caps are C655-C658. You could also bypass the muting at the same time bay taking the output for the left channel from C655 and the right output from C656 directly to the output.
Another excellent upgrade is the op amps. The best amp in here is Burson discrete op amp modules but they are expensive. The next best is LME49720HA which are little metal cased opamps these are fairly expensive for opamps but are considered the best non discrete opamp. Next the LM4562 which I would just change because the std opamp are very poor. These are excellent value for money and are the 8 pin dil version of the afore mentioned. The LM4562NA is about £5 as opposed to about £15 for the LME metal can version. While you are doing the opamps, you need to replace the 4 decoupling caps C611-C614. Again this will lift the player. You will now be in a position that the HDAM will be the bottleneck! So it'd be time to bypass the HDAM section! There is also the 5v regulator to the Analogue DAC supply. Big gains here for its on 5v low noise reg!
I'm sure that should be enough to get you asking questions!!!!
Another source of info is here acoustica.org.uk: modifying the Marantz CD63, part 1.
Another good free upgrade is to remove the output caps. There shouldn't be any DC on the output so you can just link these out. The caps are C655-C658. You could also bypass the muting at the same time bay taking the output for the left channel from C655 and the right output from C656 directly to the output.
Another excellent upgrade is the op amps. The best amp in here is Burson discrete op amp modules but they are expensive. The next best is LME49720HA which are little metal cased opamps these are fairly expensive for opamps but are considered the best non discrete opamp. Next the LM4562 which I would just change because the std opamp are very poor. These are excellent value for money and are the 8 pin dil version of the afore mentioned. The LM4562NA is about £5 as opposed to about £15 for the LME metal can version. While you are doing the opamps, you need to replace the 4 decoupling caps C611-C614. Again this will lift the player. You will now be in a position that the HDAM will be the bottleneck! So it'd be time to bypass the HDAM section! There is also the 5v regulator to the Analogue DAC supply. Big gains here for its on 5v low noise reg!
I'm sure that should be enough to get you asking questions!!!!
The clock/psu should be connected to the CDP gnd. Normally in 1 place to stop gnd loops. The clock output should have a clock and a gnd connection. Looking at the rockclock fitting instructions, you need to connect the red clock out (O) to where you've removed U196 in the hole closest the DAC. You can the connect the black gnd (G) to where you've removed CD02 or CD03 in the hole closest the edge of the PCB. Personally I'd drill a new hole closer to the DAC for the Gnd and perform the acoustical clock hack to shorten the gnd trace at the same time.
IanAttachments
I'm in the process of building lm317/377 regulators for the cd63SE (to replace the standard 78xx/79xx).
I've spent last night with a protoboard and the required components (included a 220uf/16V cap on both). Since this is my first protoboard product, I would like to test it before blowing up my CDP.
How should I best test the lm317/377?
I've spent last night with a protoboard and the required components (included a 220uf/16V cap on both). Since this is my first protoboard product, I would like to test it before blowing up my CDP.
How should I best test the lm317/377?
i've just looked at the SM again! I thought the servo rails were derrived fromt he 12v rails but they are not. Therefore fit them in the original places.
There is an advantage to fitting the regs directly to the device its supplying buy i'd not worry about it with those regs here!
Thanks Matthieu
I just added some more service manuals: Marantz CD6000KI, CD7300 and SA-1.
Ray
Last edited:
Due to multiple requests over the past few weeks, I decided to do a small production run of my DOS PCB. They are not as dirt-cheap as the Flea boards because of the small batch size, but for €14.00 ex. shipping & PayPal, you can be the proud owner of a stereo board!
The PCB holds two identical sections for left and right channel. They can be separated mechanically with a PCB cutter if desired. Ground planes for left and right are also separate, but can be linked by jumpering a number of via's. The circuit is identical to that on my website. The schematic and partslist can also be found there.
If anyone is interested, drop me an e-mail at
dospcb@raylectronics.nl
Regards,
Ray
The PCB holds two identical sections for left and right channel. They can be separated mechanically with a PCB cutter if desired. Ground planes for left and right are also separate, but can be linked by jumpering a number of via's. The circuit is identical to that on my website. The schematic and partslist can also be found there.
If anyone is interested, drop me an e-mail at
dospcb@raylectronics.nl
Regards,
Ray
Last edited:
One for me! It's been said the Philips CD950 and its TDA1547 deserve it
No problem, Matthieu. Could you drop me an e-mail, so I can collect all the orders in my DOS-inbox?
One for me! It's been said the Philips CD950 and its TDA1547 deserve it
Very wise choice Matthieu!
Have you looked at the 1547 datasheet yet? you can bypass the inbuilt opamps and output directly through the DOS. Lee did this on a CD17! You should ask him about it!!!
Another very tidy looking board Ray! How many boards did you have made? i'm wondering about the set up costs for a small PCB. Ian
Yep I've already sent him a PM. Hope the filter parts are the same as I still have many resistors of the right value! And yes pins 10/11 and 23/22 waiting for DOS Unfortunately the PSU of the DAC is a bit complicated. Let me fix my CD53 to sell it to buy speakers matching this sleeping wonder! (I hope so...).
I will be banned for TDA1547 corrupting the forum...
Matthieu
Unfortunately the PSU of the DAC is a bit complicated. Let me fix my CD53 to sell it to buy speakers matching this sleeping wonder! (I hope so...).I will be banned for TDA1547 corrupting the forum...
Matthieu
stevief
Ian,
thanks. So the clock just feeds a signal to the DAC. I had thought that a signal would pass through the clock (input and output).
I will get onto this mod this week at work. I may order the opamps and bypass the hdam at the same time while its all open.
Are there other straightforward mods that give good gains?
Steve
Ian,
thanks. So the clock just feeds a signal to the DAC. I had thought that a signal would pass through the clock (input and output).
I will get onto this mod this week at work. I may order the opamps and bypass the hdam at the same time while its all open.
Are there other straightforward mods that give good gains?
Steve