Many thanks
It sounds super-detailed, with really quite massive bass. It also sounds a little hard edged, but that's down to the 30va tx struggling. It'll smooth right out with the extra tx's and psu's.
Excellent, I'll stay online and do my best to help. (I'm not a total expert tho).
Hi mate yes it looks like you have been very busy on that player. Im a bit gutted as i broke my 67 doing some mods and it really sounded good. Then i baught a 63 and i thaught i would never get it sound as good as the 67 but it did and sounded really well i hope i can repair it. It just seems like every time i get close to the sound i want it brakes. But if i get it working i have a c1 clock to fit but dont know weather to put it on the dac or servo
The case is from my old KI version, which seems to be totally knackered, lol.
c1 clock to fit but dont know weather to put it on the dac or servo
I'd stick it on the dac.
Lee.
Hi Bull
i too have had the same experience, very little work on a 67 sounded hot!!!
then i killed it.....
6 wks later i found a 63 done 10x the work on it stills sounds s**t then i killed it... error 2 & 10, thanks to this forum i bought a mm checked all volts it seemed ok, but when checking continuity from dac i found a broken track at cd 15 or 16 cant remember which
Have a good look at soldering around dac even re-solder from pins to cap legs it worked for me!
Your post about the regs has given me hope, i dont listen to the player cos it sounds so c***p
Dont give up the fault will be something simple
Ian
i too have had the same experience, very little work on a 67 sounded hot!!!
then i killed it.....
6 wks later i found a 63 done 10x the work on it stills sounds s**t then i killed it... error 2 & 10, thanks to this forum i bought a mm checked all volts it seemed ok, but when checking continuity from dac i found a broken track at cd 15 or 16 cant remember which
Have a good look at soldering around dac even re-solder from pins to cap legs it worked for me!
Your post about the regs has given me hope, i dont listen to the player cos it sounds so c***p
Dont give up the fault will be something simple
Ian
Hi padman i am scared to touch my player as i allways seem to make things worse. But all im gona do check voltages and nothing else surely i cant make it worse just doing thatyes i agree with you on the 67 sounds really good with a few mods but i have had a lot more done to 63 but i would say its better than the 67. That was before it broke but only slightly better
yes i agree with you on the 67 sounds really good with a few mods but i have had a lot more done to 63 but i would say its better than the 67. That was before it broke but only slightly better
As for op amps, LM4562 with Rubycon ZL/ZLH before & after schottkys and at op amps (so far 8 caps) it really came to a new step of life when I added the LM337/317 regulators. It's few work and so cheap, you must do it!
Again, the real guard angel being Ray, check his website, all is explained. You can also do a search on this forum, in source/digital section with the "raygulator" word.
Again, the real guard angel being Ray, check his website, all is explained. You can also do a search on this forum, in source/digital section with the "raygulator" word.
-ve regs
Hi guys,
I could use some help. I'm building a small +ve -ve 5v supply using LM317/337s, rayreg design but using leds instead of R2. I'm using seperate tx windings and diode bridges for the +/-.
+ve 5v is perfect. For the -5v I've got the combination of LEDs that give -5 but as soon as I add the 10u tant in parallel with them the voltage drops to 4.4/4.5 v. Same happens if I remove the leds and use a resistor. I've checked that I've got the -ve leg of the tant pointing towards R1/adj pin. Tried it with different values/types of cap and always the same voltage reduction.
Any advice on what's causing this?
Thanks
Pete
Hi guys,
I could use some help. I'm building a small +ve -ve 5v supply using LM317/337s, rayreg design but using leds instead of R2. I'm using seperate tx windings and diode bridges for the +/-.
+ve 5v is perfect. For the -5v I've got the combination of LEDs that give -5 but as soon as I add the 10u tant in parallel with them the voltage drops to 4.4/4.5 v. Same happens if I remove the leds and use a resistor. I've checked that I've got the -ve leg of the tant pointing towards R1/adj pin. Tried it with different values/types of cap and always the same voltage reduction.
Any advice on what's causing this?
Thanks
Pete
Hi Lee,
Yes, tried a couple and both the same. The odd thing is that it's working fine without the cap. Only get the voltage drop when I add it in. Take it out and the voltage is -5 again. It's driving me mad
Regards
Pete
Hi Lee,
Yes, tried a couple and both the same. The odd thing is that it's working fine without the cap. Only get the voltage drop when I add it in. Take it out and the voltage is -5 again. It's driving me mad
Hi Pete
I had similar issues while building -12v sregs.... try to load the output with some resistance and see if it works.
Ricardo
Hi
Please can someone help me with fitting a Tentlabs XO3.2 into my CD63?
http://www.tentlabs.com/Products/cdupgrade/xo2xo3/index.html
Instructions: http://www.tentlabs.com/Products/cdupgrade/xo2xo3/assets/XO23mounting.pdf
I can work out where to take "clock out" from (bottom pin of crystal and right pin of CD02 cap).
The XO 3.2 contains an additional reclocking circuit for the digital output (SPDIF), which requires interrupting the signal between the decoder and the buffer and feeding it into "SPDIF in" on the XO3.2 board.
There seems to be no decoder on my CD63 board, just an empty slot for a SAA7345.
Where should I take my signal from?
Thanks guys.
Please can someone help me with fitting a Tentlabs XO3.2 into my CD63?
http://www.tentlabs.com/Products/cdupgrade/xo2xo3/index.html
Instructions: http://www.tentlabs.com/Products/cdupgrade/xo2xo3/assets/XO23mounting.pdf
I can work out where to take "clock out" from (bottom pin of crystal and right pin of CD02 cap).
The XO 3.2 contains an additional reclocking circuit for the digital output (SPDIF), which requires interrupting the signal between the decoder and the buffer and feeding it into "SPDIF in" on the XO3.2 board.
There seems to be no decoder on my CD63 board, just an empty slot for a SAA7345.
Where should I take my signal from?
Thanks guys.
Hi Lee,
Yes, tried a couple and both the same. The odd thing is that it's working fine without the cap. Only get the voltage drop when I add it in. Take it out and the voltage is -5 again. It's driving me mad
Regards
Pete
Pete,
I could be the negative version needs more or less capacity at the output. Sometimes they oscillate. Also the minimum load is 10mA, if you use 120R for the resistor from the OUT to ADJ pin, you already have that covered. Watch the polarity of the caps, plus is to GND with the negative version and the pinning is also different. Maybe superfluous info, but you never know...
Ray
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