Brent - will you be adding cryogenics to your range of mods? Like Audio-con?
I have visions of someone eagerly attempting to put the first disc into their modded machine only to be greeted by a packet of fish fingers when the tray opens.
I have visions of someone eagerly attempting to put the first disc into their modded machine only to be greeted by a packet of fish fingers when the tray opens.
Glenn2 said:
I have visions of someone eagerly attempting to put the first disc into their modded machine only to be greeted by a packet of fish fingers when the tray opens.
Tho not be allarmed.... I did a lot of work on the PSU and the sound became much faster and detailed.... but it lost a bit of bass... I must get it back.
Glenn2 said:Brent - will you be adding cryogenics to your range of mods? Like Audio-con?
I have visions of someone eagerly attempting to put the first disc into their modded machine only to be greeted by a packet of fish fingers when the tray opens.
LOL
Glenn2 said:
Sea bass?
Someone's on form today!!!
KI TX voltages
Hi Brent
Just to let you know all the voltages check out OK against the diagram.
Pretty close, anyway 3.6v=3.4v, 13.9v bang on, both 17.6v read 16.4 but nothing to worry about and the two 9.6v=9.7
So the fault lies elsewhere. It's a servo type error so I'm gonna follow round the PCB as best I can and keep you posted.
Thanks for all your help so far, anyway.
Jim
Hi Brent
Just to let you know all the voltages check out OK against the diagram.
Pretty close, anyway 3.6v=3.4v, 13.9v bang on, both 17.6v read 16.4 but nothing to worry about and the two 9.6v=9.7
So the fault lies elsewhere. It's a servo type error so I'm gonna follow round the PCB as best I can and keep you posted.
Thanks for all your help so far, anyway.
Jim
Well when I last tried to fix it the laser sled moved outwards when it was powered up and tried to keep going.
Last night to check the voltages I tried it with the pcb out of the player, but both the fuses were blown (FH11 and FH12)
Put the two fuses in from the SE and got 5v at R508, R511 for the decoder, RD01 and RD04 for the DAC, +/_12v at R613 to R616 then the fuses went again, but I had been switching off and on again every time I moved the board (naked mains terminals)!
So until I get more fuses I can't go any further.
I did find I had removed U139 in an attempt to stop the sled damaging the worm gear while I tested it, would this cause fuses to go?
Think something's not quite right with the 79M18A at Q851, thought I was getting nearly 34v out of it until the fuses went, but I only had a couple of minutes before losing the fuses.
Would it be safe to put in fuses rated higher than 340mA ubtil I can check, but the danger is I might fry something serious if I do that. How high would you go?
PS You should put Simon on commission!!!
If I wasn't so tight/broke or both I'd have spent a lot of money with you by now!!
Jim
Last night to check the voltages I tried it with the pcb out of the player, but both the fuses were blown (FH11 and FH12)
Put the two fuses in from the SE and got 5v at R508, R511 for the decoder, RD01 and RD04 for the DAC, +/_12v at R613 to R616 then the fuses went again, but I had been switching off and on again every time I moved the board (naked mains terminals)!
So until I get more fuses I can't go any further.
I did find I had removed U139 in an attempt to stop the sled damaging the worm gear while I tested it, would this cause fuses to go?
Think something's not quite right with the 79M18A at Q851, thought I was getting nearly 34v out of it until the fuses went, but I only had a couple of minutes before losing the fuses.
Would it be safe to put in fuses rated higher than 340mA ubtil I can check, but the danger is I might fry something serious if I do that. How high would you go?
PS You should put Simon on commission!!!
If I wasn't so tight/broke or both I'd have spent a lot of money with you by now!!
Jim
LOL
The fuses should be 630mA each. Unless you did a typo that is why they keep blowing.
Normally a lost dac clock signal causes it to sled outwards.
A missing servo clock causes the disc to spin backwards really fast.
I don't think the display voltage reg is causing any problems.
Simon obviously likes my products hehe also I help with his cd player when things go wrong.
Brent
The fuses should be 630mA each. Unless you did a typo that is why they keep blowing.
Normally a lost dac clock signal causes it to sled outwards.
A missing servo clock causes the disc to spin backwards really fast.
I don't think the display voltage reg is causing any problems.
Simon obviously likes my products hehe also I help with his cd player when things go wrong.
Brent
hello from istanbul.
maybe the answer to my question is already on these pages, but i just got hold of you and could not go through all the 300plus pages last night.
i just acquired a marantz cd63ki player which i will use for the moment solely as a transport. i will feed an external dac through its digital coaxial output (my quad cdp, its transport is causing problems).
just got it done some modifications, i am not able with this kind of craft:
- iec socket for removeable power chord (ecosse red)
- wbt socket for the digital coaxial out
- blutack the cabinet interiors and the transport
much better bass already.
what other modifications would you recommend?
by using the digital out, which parts of the electronics i am bypassing? will clocking help me?
i just love music, i have no idea about electronics.
thanks
selo
maybe the answer to my question is already on these pages, but i just got hold of you and could not go through all the 300plus pages last night.
i just acquired a marantz cd63ki player which i will use for the moment solely as a transport. i will feed an external dac through its digital coaxial output (my quad cdp, its transport is causing problems).
just got it done some modifications, i am not able with this kind of craft:
- iec socket for removeable power chord (ecosse red)
- wbt socket for the digital coaxial out
- blutack the cabinet interiors and the transport
much better bass already.
what other modifications would you recommend?
by using the digital out, which parts of the electronics i am bypassing? will clocking help me?
i just love music, i have no idea about electronics.
thanks
selo
selo said:
Hi Selo, and welcome to this thread!
If you use the digital out, you bypass the internal D/A converter and the analog output and filter. But there are plenty of areas that apply for modifications. A dedicated clock will help absolutely. The digital signal is produced by the decoder, which also runs on the clock signal. The power supply section around the decoder can be upgraded, and the section that supplies the transport, servo and drivers.
Here's a mods list with some highlighted areas, that should give you a rough idea of all the things that can be upgraded. Also the coupling cap CT01 and the digital-out transformer can be upgraded.
Regards,
Ray
Kwak clock
Hi Ray
I am building the Kwak based clock from your website on stripboard and I have a question.
You say "With P1 the square wave can be adjusted for a 50% duty cycle."
Two questions please.
1) Can you explain what you mean by 50% duty cycle and
2) Although I do not have an oscilloscope I have read of using software and a PC soundcard.
I have a PC with a Soundblaster Live! card in it.
How would I use this to make the adjustment please?
Thanks
Jim
Hi Ray
I am building the Kwak based clock from your website on stripboard and I have a question.
You say "With P1 the square wave can be adjusted for a 50% duty cycle."
Two questions please.
1) Can you explain what you mean by 50% duty cycle and
2) Although I do not have an oscilloscope I have read of using software and a PC soundcard.
I have a PC with a Soundblaster Live! card in it.
How would I use this to make the adjustment please?
Thanks
Jim