Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

SimontY said:
... I can host it elsewhere.



Hi Si,

I noticed you kept the op amp output along side the Discrete Out. Beware of noise (of the common mode type) entering the analogue signal between the DAC and the input of your board. Keep a short distance if possible or use twisted pair or shielded cable (Prefer AV-14) for connection. A Cage of Faraday over the board would be nice too.


PS ImageShack has excellent bandwith for hosting graphics.
 
6h5c said:
...I use a nice small toroidal for the analog voltage.
Ray


rowemeister said:
I am not suprised how much diff its made over the standard 63 tx really. It should also be better than the KI winding too.
Brent


Guys,
Toroids are cute but their only advantage to a split core is the absense of a strong magnetic field. In terms of isolating HF garbage from the mains they are even a less obvious choice...
 
disco said:
Hi Si,

I noticed you kept the op amp output along side the Discrete Out. Beware of noise (of the common mode type) entering the analogue signal between the DAC and the input of your board.

Hi Jaap, great to see you posting on here again.

Does this advice apply even with the op-amps not connected to power or signal? They are not currently connected to either.


disco said:
Guys,
Toroids are cute but their only advantage to a split core is the absense of a strong magnetic field. In terms of isolating HF garbage from the mains they are even a less obvious choice...

I've wondered about what the optimal choice is for when using external supplies. I currently use two toroids and one "split core". The latter powers my clocks. I chose it for that location to minimise noise transfer back to the primary (based on something I read).

It must be said that toroids are also very small and I don't think one could fit many into a CD63.

Simon
 
SimontY said:
Hi Jaap, great to see you posting on here again.
Thanks mate. You lost your innocence since the last time, as I noticed a new picture? :]

Does this advice apply even with the op-amps not connected to power or signal? They are not currently connected to either.
I was referring to the distance your connection is travelling from DAC to the output board. Keep it short because of high frequency noise arriving at both wires (containing the symmetrical signal).

I've wondered about what the optimal choice is for when using external supplies. I currently use two toroids and one "split core". The latter powers my clocks. I chose it for that location to minimise noise transfer back to the primary (based on something I read).

It must be said that toroids are also very small and I don't think one could fit many into a CD63.

Simon

Small == cute, alright. But what are your design goals? Can you live with less than slick looks under the hood? There's a masculine quality in big heavy iron on top of your player. Put more weight in it, that's the trick :clown:

Seriously, one shouldn't be too anxious about the clock signal 'polluting' the PSU. If you must insert a 10mH common mode filter coil followed by a 220uF cap in the supply. Corner frequency, anyone? The load by the clock is not that big, I guess less than 1mA.
It's a good habit to make measurements like Ray does and Brent is getting used to :)


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
Hi Jaap. Thanks for the comments. I have no more room for any extra boxes so it all has to be contained in the player. Besides the dog likes to stick his nose into anything left open, not good for him.

Don't suppose you have any of the boards for the discrete output stage available do you?

Cheers,

Lee.
 
gy21 said:
anyone tried an AD843 on browndogs in a marantz cd player?

I just did and I think it sounds better then the ad8620 wich I used before.

Switching interconnects brings changes in reproduction too, sometimes for the better sometimes not. What was lacking and is now cured by replacing one component? Point is, are you satisfied with the way your system is reproducing the shiny disks?

It's only Rock and Roll . . .
 
Thomo said:
Hi Jaap. Thanks for the comments. I have no more room for any extra boxes so it all has to be contained in the player. Besides the dog likes to stick his nose into anything left open, not good for him.

Don't suppose you have any of the boards for the discrete output stage available do you?

Cheers,

Lee.

Hi Lee,
The work involved in making -let's say- ten prints is quite demanding (for me that is), mostly because of the drilling with 0,8mm. If we want a small quantity manufactured they would probably cost no more than £ 8 each. Problem is what to do with the remaining samples :(

There's life besides the toroid. These trannies are great fun when soldered on a PCB, the smallest is 6VA and does a double 0-12V. Size: 3x4x5cm.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
disco said:
Guys,
Toroids are cute but their only advantage to a split core is the absense of a strong magnetic field. In terms of isolating HF garbage from the mains they are even a less obvious choice...

Hey Jaap, how's things? You are (still) very busy looking at your pictures :). Are you working on a fancy PSU for the output stage? Nice work :yes:.

You are right about the trannys. That's why I use an ordinairy PCB tranny for The Flea.

Regards,

Ray
 
@ Disco

So would you say the KI version wasted the money on a round transformer? Did it actually add anything to the sound quality? i.e less vibration? Better regulation? Less noise out of its secondaries?

John

P.S That Simon blokes got me thinking about upgrading my CD63SE...

P.P.S - How can anyone not like these sexy beauties...keep them on show like I did.

http://www.rapidonline.com/producti...n+style++toroidal+transformers&moduleno=72687

John
 

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disco said:


Hi Lee,
The work involved in making -let's say- ten prints is quite demanding (for me that is), mostly because of the drilling with 0,8mm. If we want a small quantity manufactured they would probably cost no more than £ 8 each. Problem is what to do with the remaining samples :(

Ahh, fair enough. I think I'll wait for Brent to stock some then.

disco said:

There's life besides the toroid. These trannies are great fun when soldered on a PCB, the smallest is 6VA and does a double 0-12V. Size: 3x4x5cm.


I must admit, that I have used two non-toroidal's in my player and haven't found any problems so far. I did use a Block tx, and it got so hot that you couldn't touch the thing. It melted the adhesive on the mounting brackets and fell-off. This created a large crack, some sparks, a blown fuse and a bad smell:D

Lee.
 
seroxatmad said:
would you say the KI version wasted the money on a round transformer? Did it actually add anything to the sound quality? i.e less vibration? Better regulation? Less noise out of its secondaries?

I'm glad I've whetted your appetite for CD63 modding, John!

IIRC, Brent directly compared the KI's toroid to one of the other models' transformers. He was surprised at the large gains in sound quality.

I think if all other factors were equal (materials, capacities/headroom etc.) the toroid might not have been superior. However, it was chosen as a quality part, and the cheaper E/I core ones as a cost-saving part.

Don't get hung up about it though, you can add your own transformers - like you were saying. A few of us have done this and I can tell you the gains are astonishing. The bass weight you lose from cutting out the HDAM comes back in force... but this time it's tight and tuneful! ;)

Simon
 
Re: Re: Another CD63KI

SimontY said:


Oh my word, Invisus-central!

And how's it sounding Mr Mags?


Hi Simon.

Yep there's 9 invisus regs in there, I managed to get them very cheap though :D

It's sounding very very nice but a bit dry and over clinical, it's still burning in at the moment though. I'm not to sure the Zapfilter is the way to go yet so I'll probably try one of Ray's discrete output stages later on.

Glenn, what filter did you end up using before the zapfilter? Also what sort of offset do you get from the zapfilter? I had over 200mv on the left channel before I installed 1k resistors over the original 100r's in the current mirrors. Here's a pic of were to add the new resistors, the ones circled in yellow.

Cheers,
Mags.
 

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Shame it's sounding dry :xeye:

I wonder what's causing that effect. I made a conscious effort to choose some components to avoid the possibility - Cerafine caps next to discrete stage and Kiwame carbon resistors on discrete stage.

I know this could be seen as colouration, so please don't flame me part-haters!

My sound is far from dry. What clock or clocks are you using?