rowemeister said:errr don't know why it posted twice
Brent
Thats ok mate but thought they certainly deserved a honest opinion
If I didn't have the ALW super regs and PFM flea's in my dac I'd have like to have got a few tbh, are they suitable for 3.3v too?
Those Servo clocks would be a nice addition for the Marantz's
Yes 3.3 is viable with the regs.
Don't know if you have tried a servo clock but these things make the player jump a few hundred pounds in the quality stakes.
Fine details are sublime with delicate washy treble actually sounding like an instrument rather than a hissy noise. Timber on bass is also improved.
Brent
Don't know if you have tried a servo clock but these things make the player jump a few hundred pounds in the quality stakes.
Fine details are sublime with delicate washy treble actually sounding like an instrument rather than a hissy noise. Timber on bass is also improved.
Brent
SimontY said:It will be good, but not £200 good. Brent has a SC3 on his DAC and an SC2 on his servo. The detail and quality of treble is exceptional, no doubt partly due to those and also the quality regs. But he's using all Audiocom!!
I have 6 S Power in mine now + Invisus and lots of S regs lol
slowly moving over to SPower but i don't want to use up my companies profit.
The Oscillator is a Golledge XVCO spec etc chosen by me. The ic is precision very stable low noise low ripple uber voltage regulator. It appears to be the best available. The largest smt cap is 35V 10uF. Quite big you will agree.
Brent
rowemeister said:
You can never have too many nice regulators
Don't get me wrong the Audiocom regs are good but those Spowers just made the sound more right is about the best way I could describe it.Anyway keep us up to date with the servo clocks, I've always been tempted to get a Marantz to have a play about with
That front panel ribbon is very annoying 
My remote stopped working. The fix was to solder a wire from the last pin on the ribbon thing (labelled IR) to the corresponding track on the front panel. I don't want to take my player apart too many more times!! But thankfully there's not much more to do
Simon
My remote stopped working. The fix was to solder a wire from the last pin on the ribbon thing (labelled IR) to the corresponding track on the front panel. I don't want to take my player apart too many more times!! But thankfully there's not much more to do
Simon
Hello Boys,
I'm back after a bit of a break. Don't know if you'll remember me, maybe SimonTY cos we've got the same name
I managed to get a CD63 to work (actually by using a CD67 PCB), and then went away and bought a Monica2 DAC plus I/V stage from DIY Paradise. For those looking at an upgrade to the sound of their Marantz, this is definitely worth a try for the money.
I am running the Marantz as a transport and powering the DAC with a 12V SLA battery. I had an idea to supply the Trichord Clock 3 in the Marantz with the battery for a low noise source.
The Clock currently gets its power from the 12V reg and is grounded near to where the signal comes off the clock at U196.
If I were to supply the Clock from the battery, would I remove the existing ground and 12V source from the CD PCB and reconnect them to the + and - terminal of the battery while leaving the signal wire where it is? Or do I need to ground it in some way to the CD PCB?
Cheers,
Simon (Oz)
I'm back after a bit of a break. Don't know if you'll remember me, maybe SimonTY cos we've got the same name
I managed to get a CD63 to work (actually by using a CD67 PCB), and then went away and bought a Monica2 DAC plus I/V stage from DIY Paradise. For those looking at an upgrade to the sound of their Marantz, this is definitely worth a try for the money.
I am running the Marantz as a transport and powering the DAC with a 12V SLA battery. I had an idea to supply the Trichord Clock 3 in the Marantz with the battery for a low noise source.
The Clock currently gets its power from the 12V reg and is grounded near to where the signal comes off the clock at U196.
If I were to supply the Clock from the battery, would I remove the existing ground and 12V source from the CD PCB and reconnect them to the + and - terminal of the battery while leaving the signal wire where it is? Or do I need to ground it in some way to the CD PCB?
Cheers,
Simon (Oz)