That circuit was without any load on it and does not fully represent how your mains will look.
Also he mentions the Zobel type approach. These plugs have L-N caps and also L-E N-E caps with series resistors.
The type of capacitor can have a large affect on the outcome as they do in all situations.
P.S Have you tried any of these Russ Andrews plugs for yourself?
Or have you actually scoped the mains and seen how noisy it is and then implemented different capacitors to see there effect?
Brent
Also he mentions the Zobel type approach. These plugs have L-N caps and also L-E N-E caps with series resistors.
The type of capacitor can have a large affect on the outcome as they do in all situations.
P.S Have you tried any of these Russ Andrews plugs for yourself?
Or have you actually scoped the mains and seen how noisy it is and then implemented different capacitors to see there effect?
Brent
Yup, it's my page. Good point about the load, I use a 700W resistive heater (will update and add a note, thanks).
I should point out that I started by not hearing effects of parallel filters that I liked, rather ones I didn't - so I set out to find reasons why that may be so when the basic idea is so elegant. The investigation is by no means a fait accompli, still at it but no breakthroughs yet. Adding a small series resistor with the cap can damp things nicely, but no great audible benefit either. The noise-peaking effect is demonstrable with a range of 0.1 to 1uF X-rated caps (and beyond, and a few that aren't so rated!).
Y-caps are another kettle of fish altogether, I'm not especially convinced there either for different reasons. Unless they, like an X-cap, are required for EMI control I'd rather go without...
I should point out that I started by not hearing effects of parallel filters that I liked, rather ones I didn't - so I set out to find reasons why that may be so when the basic idea is so elegant. The investigation is by no means a fait accompli, still at it but no breakthroughs yet. Adding a small series resistor with the cap can damp things nicely, but no great audible benefit either. The noise-peaking effect is demonstrable with a range of 0.1 to 1uF X-rated caps (and beyond, and a few that aren't so rated!).
Y-caps are another kettle of fish altogether, I'm not especially convinced there either for different reasons. Unless they, like an X-cap, are required for EMI control I'd rather go without...
Hi Martin,
I'm afraid I can't join in with the techincal debate but I can offer my listening impressions...something I need to revisit after so much system change since then.
I've tried Russ Andrews' Silencer (a couple of uF in there) and didn't hear much at all, good or bad. I felt it got better but it was the sort of change you can think you're imagining.
I made my own little box with 10uF across live and neutral and some smaller caps, including 'Y' rated caps from N to E and L to E. I also put some VDRs in it. This box made a noticeable change to the sound, providing warmth and a more full-bodied bass. The top end mess/glare was reduced and imaging bloomed. The effect was noticeable enough to rule out imagination.
With respect, Martin, I think you would do well to revisit this until you find out what works and why, for the greater good of the DIY community!!!
Btw I also very much enjoyed the addition of an isolation transformer to run my CD player and associated power supplies from. This also provided a sweeter, more fluid top end and a sense of "quiet".
Simon
I'm afraid I can't join in with the techincal debate but I can offer my listening impressions...something I need to revisit after so much system change since then.
I've tried Russ Andrews' Silencer (a couple of uF in there) and didn't hear much at all, good or bad. I felt it got better but it was the sort of change you can think you're imagining.
I made my own little box with 10uF across live and neutral and some smaller caps, including 'Y' rated caps from N to E and L to E. I also put some VDRs in it. This box made a noticeable change to the sound, providing warmth and a more full-bodied bass. The top end mess/glare was reduced and imaging bloomed. The effect was noticeable enough to rule out imagination.
With respect, Martin, I think you would do well to revisit this until you find out what works and why, for the greater good of the DIY community!!!
Btw I also very much enjoyed the addition of an isolation transformer to run my CD player and associated power supplies from. This also provided a sweeter, more fluid top end and a sense of "quiet".
Simon
martin clark said:
If there is one, it is to reduce the mains impedance. Cabling, sockets, extensions, fuses. It makes a big difference. And it's either good or not noticeable every time. And it doesn't mean spending big money on virgin teflon or "snake oil". Just making solid connections, IMO.
Simon
SimontY said:
The Silencer plug does make small difference (depends on mains to start with) and is also designed to be placed around the house to create 'quiet' areas near offending noisy equipment. Also the more of these you plug in the better (as the uF adds up).
The larger uF plugs do (has you found out for yourself) make quite noticable differences to the audio, more laid back and fluid sound with sweeter treble and better resonance etc
Brent
Fair points all, I think we're into the realms of personal taste to a degree. I like a lively, explicit/dynamic sound with realistic 'presence*, and don't go for the softer/smoother presentation sought by others. All the filters/conditioners I've heard, and built, move in the latter direction - to me.
No harm in that, it's all fun
*that's not to say I like my treble coarse and forward at all - can't stand that!
No harm in that, it's all fun
*that's not to say I like my treble coarse and forward at all - can't stand that!
Diplomatically said, Martin. I do agree that filters, if they do anything, tend to make the sound softer and smoother. Whether this is good or bad is of course down to taste, material and your system.
Because I got it for free I built my preamp using a fairly large series filter (typical industrial unit). I will be taking this out to compare the sound. Interestingly enough, the one piece of kit I put a quality mains lead on that didn't improve was the preamp (no real change in any area). Perhaps this filter is the (obvious) reason.
It is definately all fun and I'd also like to say nice website (www.acoustica.org.uk)!!! Some great articles there.
Simon
Because I got it for free I built my preamp using a fairly large series filter (typical industrial unit). I will be taking this out to compare the sound. Interestingly enough, the one piece of kit I put a quality mains lead on that didn't improve was the preamp (no real change in any area). Perhaps this filter is the (obvious) reason.
It is definately all fun and I'd also like to say nice website (www.acoustica.org.uk)!!! Some great articles there.
Simon
I did the NAIM NAC 32-5 pre amp mod the other week using the mods list on there.
Changed the V caps for Os con SP , and all feedback and signal caps from tiny tants to Evox Rifa SMR. The 47uF 63V was huge.
The sound was very detailed and open indeed.
P.S The customers KI is fed via a modded SNAPs PSU
Brent
Changed the V caps for Os con SP , and all feedback and signal caps from tiny tants to Evox Rifa SMR. The 47uF 63V was huge.
The sound was very detailed and open indeed.
P.S The customers KI is fed via a modded SNAPs PSU
Brent
Chivvyp said:
Wow I hope it is really that simple
You bring up a good point about getting the errors if the transport is disconnected. Im also wondering if I can maybe get an I2S signal from from Creative Xfi soundcard, then i wouldnt even have to buy that usb->i2s converter. I think I read someplace about a guy who modded his soundcard to get an i2s signal, but i dont remeber where. Im going to have to do a little more research. If anyone else has any other ideas or would like to help feel free to email me at Fsatsil@optonline.netthanks