Glenn2 said:
You probably are hearing said effects. I use an isolation transformer and I don't mind what it does, I positively like it! But I did draw the line at using one for my power amp. The effect there is to improve smoothness and make the image more realistic....but it really is at the expense of bass impact (and this was a 2kva beast).
I somehow doubt there'll be any burn in effect, but when i disturb my system and turn it on again, it doesn't sound its best for a day or so...
Glenn2 said:
If you don't like it: take it out! That's the beauty of DIY
.BTW, did you do a double blind A-B test
.SimontY said:
Happy to hear it Ray! I didn't think for a moment you'd suffer much inadequacy in your sound
My experience gave me mixed feelings and I wouldn't say I'd never go back and try things at least once more before closing the door on such an idea. The sound I got wasn't gutsy enough, it didn't have the dynamic grip and vigour I was after. It was, however, very fluid and detailed, with very low grain. The quality getting better yet worse was very obvious in adding a preamp to the signal path. The next step is to reduce the impact of this as much as possible (low gain, good op-amp, good wiring, single stage etc.)
My interconnect was the Kimber Crystal Cu, an expensive wire.
My power amp was and is DIY using the National LM3886 non inverted with a gain of 34.
Hmm, very frustrating indeed, having to choose between two types of sound that both have positive and negative aspects. The trick is to unite the positive parts. Your cable is a good one, but if you have the opportunity to hear something else you should give it a try. Your system changes, so it could be a better match is possible.
Ray
SimontY said:
Cheers Simon. Sometimes a smoother sound can appear less impactful... if you know what I mean. So I'm not sure yet if what's missing is supposed to be there!
I'll give it a good old listen over the weekend and then try jumpering it out again.
Will it sound good with a hangover anyway?
Oh, and good work on those regs Brent.
I was thinking about getting some of those Eddie Wang 317/337 pcbs but the site is in Chinese.
Glenn2 said:
Yes, smoother can be less impactful, I have found this with various mods. Often smoothness and lack of potentially false dynamic impact is a sign of reduced distortion, so the wise people say...
Good with a hangover? Yes! I love listening really really loud with a hangover. No edginess when your hearing is blunted from a club sound system the night before. You can just relax and be blasted by the loudness of it.
Hi,
just a remark to tell to people with clamping problems that the chinese 1 Yuan coin fits perfectly or a bit tight the center of the upper clamp.
just a remark to tell to people with clamping problems that the chinese 1 Yuan coin fits perfectly or a bit tight the center of the upper clamp.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
cd6000 skipping
Hi Andy,
I had a good look and did what you suggest. Degreasing did nothing and I resoldered the HF connector (thats the white plastic ribbon connector) any continuity test is quite good.
I Dont want to touch my cd67 cos Ive neverdone lasers so i dont want to risk loosing both players. Do you know what laser I need and are there any good places to buy these things online?
cheers Arthur
Hi Andy,
I had a good look and did what you suggest. Degreasing did nothing and I resoldered the HF connector (thats the white plastic ribbon connector) any continuity test is quite good.
I Dont want to touch my cd67 cos Ive neverdone lasers so i dont want to risk loosing both players. Do you know what laser I need and are there any good places to buy these things online?
cheers Arthur
Re: cd6000 skipping
Hello down there. I spent two months backpacking around NZ a few years back. Absolutely loved it. I circumnavigated the globe and NZ was my favourite place. Anyway, that's enough lovin'...
The laser's a CDM12.1 in the 63/67 but that was superceded by VAM1201 then VAM1202 and I don't know what they used in the '6000 but it will certainly be one of them. They are backwards compatible. I successfully inserted a VAM1202 in a CD63 a few years back and have one in reserve for when my CD67SE goes. They are also mercifully cheap. I paid about £18 from Grandata so try them if you can't find an NZ supplier.
EDIT: they list it as CDM12.1 mech but it's a VAM1202 that they send you.
EDIT2: you could try inserting 'provisional' capacitor 2509 on the HF amp PCB (10pf) - see service manual. This reportedly cures the problem some CD6000's have when moving from track to track on CDRs. You never know and it's easy to try. You don't need an SMD part, just solder any old 10pF ceramic disc in and see if it helps.
Luke said:
Hello down there. I spent two months backpacking around NZ a few years back. Absolutely loved it. I circumnavigated the globe and NZ was my favourite place. Anyway, that's enough lovin'...
The laser's a CDM12.1 in the 63/67 but that was superceded by VAM1201 then VAM1202 and I don't know what they used in the '6000 but it will certainly be one of them. They are backwards compatible. I successfully inserted a VAM1202 in a CD63 a few years back and have one in reserve for when my CD67SE goes. They are also mercifully cheap. I paid about £18 from Grandata so try them if you can't find an NZ supplier.
EDIT: they list it as CDM12.1 mech but it's a VAM1202 that they send you.
EDIT2: you could try inserting 'provisional' capacitor 2509 on the HF amp PCB (10pf) - see service manual. This reportedly cures the problem some CD6000's have when moving from track to track on CDRs. You never know and it's easy to try. You don't need an SMD part, just solder any old 10pF ceramic disc in and see if it helps.
Hi Glenn2,
pleased you liked NZ. I lived in Hounslow near Heathrow for a while and spent a year and a half in Putney. That was a pretty good time too.
Thanks for you link, I will ring the local guys on Monday and if they cant get me one at a competive price Ill order from Grandata. I will also do the mod even thought I dont think this sounds like my problem.
Ray nice link, I think Id have to try real hard to break anything with instructions that good, but hey if any one can.....
thanks for the help guys.
seeya Arthur
pleased you liked NZ. I lived in Hounslow near Heathrow for a while and spent a year and a half in Putney. That was a pretty good time too.
Thanks for you link, I will ring the local guys on Monday and if they cant get me one at a competive price Ill order from Grandata. I will also do the mod even thought I dont think this sounds like my problem.
Ray nice link, I think Id have to try real hard to break anything with instructions that good, but hey if any one can.....
thanks for the help guys.
seeya Arthur
Hello
Hi Guys
Thought it was about time I said hello, as I have been lurking this thread for ages and benefitting greatly from all your wiseness!!, although I have to admit most of the technical stuff goes completely over my head not having any electronics background whatsoever. I am now running a 63KI modified by his godness the rowemeister, with lots of audiocom regs and a 2b clock. Loving it. I have done some of my own mods with a new silver plated shielded mains cable and now would like to look into the whole earthing thing, although the more I read about it the more complicated it seems to get like all electrical/ electronic things . Anyway my main point on this particular post is re the attenuator debate. I got a pair of -10db inline attenuators from goldenjacks.com on ebay a while ago for the main reasons that brent outlined, (and not being an electronics whizz kid I wouldn't even know how to begin makling my own) and I would definitely agree that they do improve the overall sound quality. I would not like to engage with all the electronic experts on why it should or should not work but they definitely do!! Anyway I've waffled on quite long enuff for a noobie- Thanks again for the great thread!
Hi Guys
Thought it was about time I said hello, as I have been lurking this thread for ages and benefitting greatly from all your wiseness!!, although I have to admit most of the technical stuff goes completely over my head not having any electronics background whatsoever. I am now running a 63KI modified by his godness the rowemeister, with lots of audiocom regs and a 2b clock. Loving it. I have done some of my own mods with a new silver plated shielded mains cable and now would like to look into the whole earthing thing, although the more I read about it the more complicated it seems to get like all electrical/ electronic things . Anyway my main point on this particular post is re the attenuator debate. I got a pair of -10db inline attenuators from goldenjacks.com on ebay a while ago for the main reasons that brent outlined, (and not being an electronics whizz kid I wouldn't even know how to begin makling my own) and I would definitely agree that they do improve the overall sound quality. I would not like to engage with all the electronic experts on why it should or should not work but they definitely do!! Anyway I've waffled on quite long enuff for a noobie- Thanks again for the great thread!
Me again! I've also wired back to a dedicated hifi circuit on my distribution board with shielded mains cable. Highly recommended upgrade if you can do it. Also re the attenuators I now note that goldenjacks do a -14db set as well which is about what rowemeister calculated as being about optimum for the cd63. (for anyone else that is too lazy/stupid/busy to make their own)!
Cheers
kenny
Cheers
kenny