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#9911 | |
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diyAudio Member
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If you want to use output caps, you can always bypass big caps with smaller ones (ex: 3u3 tant + 4700pF styroflex+2200uF Rubycon) to increase speed and transiente response, but, as you have the BG´s on the PCB near the chip, I believe you do not need output caps on the sregs. Also the BG should not be bypassed. Brent´s SPower are much better regs because they are very fast... So the output voltage does not get affected with variations on the load. You will love the results if you power the servo with two sregs... You will gain a lot of detail. Regards Ricardo
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RC |
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#9912 |
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diyAudio Member
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Wahhhh (Not Wham, Last Xmas I Gave You My Heart... or stop modding your CDP)
Folk still improvin' CDPs here! Nice to see I'll get your knowledge next time I'll have a look in. Right now will just fit new gold plated RCAs (I've stock but think it's more for show than anything else...) and my Vibrapod feet (shaking rack...). Like I often do I'll be happy if people here can have a look there: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...72#post1502572 Thanks, Matthieu
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Old simple TT, cheap CDP with wise mods, Class T amp at its best: music! |
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#9913 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Lyon, France
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Don't get me started on caps, lol.
![]() As you can see the ESR of those is ludicrous. Tant drops are useless. ![]() Solid tantalum chip caps, those have better ESR. Actually the ESR is a desirable characteristic in this case to stabilize the LDO in portable equipment and avoid ringing with the ceramic caps. 0.2-0.5 ohms is cool, 5 ohms like above is a joke. ![]() Of course OSCON is always a safe choice, this cap is so fast, still less than 0.1 ohm at 10 MHz, of course at those frequencies trace inductance matters (better use it close to the chip's pin and bypass to ground plane). ![]() Here is a standard stacked poly film through hole cap, it's pretty obvious that the OSCON is a lot better for bypassing : OSCON has something like 50 times less inductance, and a tiny bit more ESR to damp those nasty ringings. Obviously for a signal coupling cap or filter cap, this would be different. But, note for HF filtering applications (like lowpass at the output of a DAC for instance), capacitor inductance should not be neglected. ![]() However not all films are equal and using this in a filter would introduce "interesting" parasitic effects since at the frequency of interest, the capacitance starts to go to fairy land. ![]() And finally a good old snap-in of low inductance construction ; those are pretty cheap too ; the 1000µF would be pretty useless but the 6800 and 22000 are really looking good, still not inductive at 100 kHz, flat low impedance, a small bypass (perhaps OSCON) and you get less than 0.1 ohm power supply impedance up to 10 MHz which is pretty impressive. A standard through-hole lytic will display much worse performance. However, the regulator will take care of the power supply impedance (hopefully) up to a certain frequency, depending on its speed, so a faster regulator can allow the use of a smaller value cap, in this case Panasonic FK or FA series can be applied, those are low-ESR, low-ESL caps for switchmode supplies, pretty cheap too. Note that at 10 MHz, 0.1 ohms impedance is just a few nanohenries away so trace length matters, and ground plane is mandatory... What I also wanted to mention is that, if you misguidedly bypass the above snap-in cap (30 nH, 10mOhm) with the above 10 uF stacked film (40nH, 8mOhm), with 10 mm of PCB trace (5 nH), you get a RLC with about 10uF, 75nH, 18 mOhm, so resonance is at 1.1 MHz with a Q of 4, which means it will ring. This is a problem with multiple bypasses. In the classical case of a PCB without a ground/power plane, power is distributed through rather long traces, with multiple bypass caps, which worsens the effect. Extra reading : http://www.analog.com/library/analog...09/layout.html |
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#9914 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Doncaster England
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Quote:
Sorry for the late reply but i've moved house this weekend and have no broadband until it all exchanges over. I'm glad you like the reg Brent |
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#9915 |
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diyAudio Member
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http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...50#post1502650
You mean that multiple bypassing a large cap might cause ringing ? Can you please provide a little more detail and if possible a practical example ? I am now building a psu for the dac analog sreg so I am particularly interested in your comments about snap in versus t hole big electrolitics... What is the reasoning behind the differences? (Reading about big caps I always found that for the same values, screw terminal ones present better ESR than T-hole ones... but why?) Best regards Ricardo
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RC |
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#9916 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Lyon, France
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> You mean that multiple bypassing a large cap might cause ringing ?
Yep. > Can you please provide a little more detail and if possible a practical example ? Well, caps have inductance, traces have inductance, as soon as there is more than one cap it makes a LC circuit... Just like transformer inductance + parasitic capacitance of rectifier diodes = big burst of RF 100 times a second (that's why we put snubbers and fancy diodes) Now you can calculate the resonant frequency and the Q to have proper damping, but it's pretty difficult to do since most of the time the interesting bits aren't specified in the datasheet... ideally this would need to be done with a network analyzer (I'm working on this, lol). So, sorry I can't really be of any help, except provide generic advice like : don't bypass a large electrolytic with very low ESR with a large film cap with high inductance (and also very low ESR), also avoid inductive caps (wound caps, anything with the leads on both ends like "audiophile" caps etc which are meant for signal coupling)... Read the page on RLC circuits on Wikipedia ![]() > snap in versus t hole big electrolitics Essentialy, a snap-in cap is a big thru-hole electrolytic cap, except it's easier to solder (it snaps in so it doesn't fall when you flip the board) and optimized for low ESR and low impedance... good for high-current switchmode power supplies for instance. Audiophile caps like Cerafine etc are also low-impedance I believe, but generic no-name through-hole caps are really bad... Take Panasonic for example, they make lots of different caps, the performance of the "general purpose" is very different from the "FA/FK low impedance" series, try to smooth the noise from a switchmode power supply with a "general purpose" cap, it just won't work, too much inductance and ESR... now put a more optimized cap and no more problems, of course they are much more expensive (that means $1/cap instead of $0.2 lol) > I always found that for the same values, screw terminal ones present better ESR than T-hole ones... but why? Because those are made for extra-super-heavy duty power supplies and therefore they must handle lots of current... Power dissipation in the cap is RI² you probably know that, so if R is too much, the cap will overheat, so those caps are optimized to handle that situation, that's all. But those are not necessarily low-impedance at higher frequencies, also you have to add the inductance of wires etc. Switching power supplies are another thing, since the cap sees lots of current at high frequency, so it must have low ESR and low inductance, which means it is on the PCB with small leads or SMD. I just built a LED driver for my bike, it's a switcher with LTC3780, the smoothing cap is a 220uF SMD cap, pretty small (about 8x8 mm), it eats up to 2 amps of ripple current, a crummy lytic with 1 ohm ESR would just explode. I get 20 mV ripple. |
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#9917 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thank you Peufeu
If I can not use film caps, what kind of cap should I use to bypass my 10.000uF elcaps in a psu for analog dac +5v ? Maybe an Oscon ? Your comments are very important and welcome. Regards Ricardo
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RC |
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#9918 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Lyon, France
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Do you need to bypass the big PSU caps before the regulator ? That depends... if your regulator is slower than say, the 100-500 kHz bandwidth of a nice snap-in cap, which is most likely the case, bypassing the big cap isn't necessary (put snubbers on your rectifier however, another can of worms to design those). And, if your big caps are like 5 cm away from your regulator, wire inductance makes your bypass cap useless anyway.
For the digital sections, or the analog sections of the DAC : big PSU caps -> regulator -> cap -> choke -> OSCON // 100 nF X7R at the chip (if you have more digital chips to feed, add more chokes and caps, for instance Murata BLMA 1206 SMD ferrites are nice). The cap after the regulator extends its bandwidth, and the choke prevents ringing and keeps the digital noise confined. Don't overdo it with the choke, try BLM31A700S for instance. A choke will keep RF out of your wires which is a good thing. For the opamps : This is where it gets hairy. Fast opamps need local bypass and multiple bypass caps with long traces do ring. Solution could be to use chokes again, or simply use a post-regulator cap with a reasonable amount of ESR (like 0.1-0.3 ohms) which will damp the ringing. I need to finish this network analyzer, because here I'm shooting in the dark. |
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#9919 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Hi,
Is there a different (more solidly built) transport available for the 63/67? I have somewhere about another Philips transport which is cast aluminium or something. Thanks Gareth |
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#9920 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: DK
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Quote:
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