Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Hey everyone ! Got to share this.
Yesterday, I bought a set of soundcare superspike, the one that you paste to fix them. I put them under my CD57. It's full of bitume damping since I started to mod it.
I only played one disc yesterday evening, but didn't have time to test correctly. Today, I get back home ealier. Put that same disc than yesterday, and again, on first track, felt like something was missing. I removed the spike (I didn't paste them yet for easy testing), and ran it again. Some big bass came back ! I put them again, and tried again, to discover those bass from the beginning of the track are almost muted. Also felt like there's more air now. I had a strange feeling, so I put some other track I like because of their big bass. (some cypress hill) Hopefully, big bass are still here, but now sounds a bit different, like there's more detail in them. Sometimes even feel like it's more deep.
My conclusion, I bet I will find some tunes really different sometimes, but most often, it will sounds way better than before. I really wasn't expecting such a change. Now got to try adding some under my amp and speakers.
 
Got the SMC soldered on

Thanks for your tips.
I got these soldered on. I have a pair of cheap magnafying glasses to wear and they worked well. Glad I attempted it. Now I am trying to find a place where I can purchase a 47pf or 50pf styrene cap in the US. I broke my ceramic cap when I put it in the wrong holes and I could not desolder it. Had to snip it out of one of the holes.

I should have added in my post the following:
In soldering smd resistors I first put some solder on one of the pads. Then I get the resistor in place on that pad and hold the resistor with a pointy thing like a soldering tool or a pencil tip, and then heat the solder on the pad and hold the resistor in place until the solder cools, only a couple seconds. I try to have the resistor properly lined up on the other pad at this time. It's easy to readjust by just heating the one pad with solder on it and slightly moving the resistor. When all is well then just add solder to the other pad and the resistor. The one thing you do not want to do it apply too much heat directly to the resistor as the film is delicate. And I always check the connection with my dmm after soldering to be sure of things.
 
Flea Recommendation

Martin,
Are there any standard parts on the Flea that you would recommend upgrading, ie caps?
Thanks,
Jerry
Don't worry, the Flea tests normally and works just fine without the 47pF cap to pin 8 of the AD797.

You can install the flea and add this part later when you can source one; any CG0 / NPO ceramic cap will be fine here :)
 
CD67 OSE Mod Parts List

Well it is time for me to order more parts for the CD67 Mods and have some more questions about Ray's parts list (Thanks Ray for your website and your assistance!!! - Much appreciated)

Power Supply:
- Are the Elna RSH audio grade parts? I can not seem to find any so was wonder what the recommended replacements would be?
- I am assuming under Remarks that PPS stands for Metallized Polyphenylene Sulfide Film caps. Are these leaded parts or SMC?
- Assuming these are to be used as bypass caps across the electrolytic.
- Why are some bypassed with PPS and other with X7R caps?
- Would Polystyrene be better than these or is there no difference in this application?
- Diodes are replaced with 11DQ10 Schottkys. Should a snubber cap be placed across these or not? Seems like I had heard a debate on this at one point.

HDM and Op Amps:
- I plan on removing these completely so assume this section does not apply but was wondering what +2 ferrites means under Remarks? Are these just like the beads that were included in the Flea kit? Are they placed on the wire leads of the specified inductor to add more inductance? I can not seem to locate these in the US.

Output Filter:
-If I am using a DOS board, do I ignore these mods?
-Any advantage or Mica caps over Polystyrene?

DAC, Decoder, Drivers, uController, Servo PCB:
- Would it be better to use Solid Polymere caps list the OSCON SEPC in the digital sections? I notice that some do this. Assuming because of lower ESR.
If so, does anyone have a list of the Caps I should replace on the CD67 SE?

I feel like a 5 year old with all my questions. I am sure more to follow . . .

:)
 
CD63 KI mod - Step 2

Time to continue with my mods on my old trusty CD63 KI mkII.

Done so far:
Removed muting transistors
Bypassed DC blocking caps
Replaced RCA analogue sockets

In Step 2 I am thinking of replacing Op-amps with LME49720HA.

I will also upgrade some critical caps in the player. This is my list of caps Im thinking of using:

Power supply
C803/804 Panasonic TSUP 10000uF/35v
C805/806 Rubycon ZA 470uF/16v
C813 Panasonic TSUP 22000uF/16v
C814 Panasonic TSUP 22000uF/16v
C815 Panasonic FM 4700uF/6.3v
HDAM & OPAMPS

C611...614 Rubycon ZA 470uF/16v
DAC

CD04 remove
CD05 Rubycon ZA 16V 470uF + 47n cer.
CD06 Rubycon ZA 16V 470uF + 47n cer.
CD07 remove
CD12/13 remove
CD15/16 Rubycon ZA 16V 470uF + 47n cer.
HF-amp

C503 remove
C504 Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v
Decoder

C510/511 Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v
Servo & Vref

C120 Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v
C122 Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v

Is it recommended to bypass some of the caps in the power supply, what values?
Please let me know what you think about this list. Is it reasonable? Is something missing? Should something be different?

Thanks in advance!
 
Jerry - no, it's remarkably insensitive to parts by design :)

If anything, I would now recommend that rather than 10K/3u3 in the input filter driving the base of the BC547, you reduce the R value to 1K up to 3K3 and go larger with the capacitor. This means a change to tantalum or electrolytic types e.g. 1K/47uF or 100uF is good. It slightly reduces the supply impedance to the 7812, and more usefully - reduces the dropout voltage by a volt or so.
 
Thanks,
Jerry
Jerry - no, it's remarkably insensitive to parts by design :)

If anything, I would now recommend that rather than 10K/3u3 in the input filter driving the base of the BC547, you reduce the R value to 1K up to 3K3 and go larger with the capacitor. This means a change to tantalum or electrolytic types e.g. 1K/47uF or 100uF is good. It slightly reduces the supply impedance to the 7812, and more usefully - reduces the dropout voltage by a volt or so.
 
Power supply
C803/804 Panasonic TSUP 10000uF/35v
C805/806 Rubycon ZA 470uF/16v
C813 Panasonic TSUP 22000uF/16v
C814 Panasonic TSUP 22000uF/16v

Bear in mind that if you wish to upgrade to a 50va toroidal 12v transformer at some point (and you should because it's cheap and quite easy with good results) that 16v caps for c813 & c814 will need to be changed to at least 25v, because the rail runs at more like 18v with this power supply. So you may wish to just go for 25v now for these.
 
Bear in mind that if you wish to upgrade to a 50va toroidal 12v transformer at some point (and you should because it's cheap and quite easy with good results) that 16v caps for c813 & c814 will need to be changed to at least 25v, because the rail runs at more like 18v with this power supply. So you may wish to just go for 25v now for these.

Thats a good point.
Yes, I am planning to upgrade the transformer in the future.
I have updated my list with these values:
C813 Panasonic TSUP 22000uF/25v C814 Panasonic TSUP 22000uF/25v
 
Infact, looking at your list Stefan, it's probably a good time to change out the diodes in the rectifier circuit for something like Schottky 11dq10 while you're in that area. I don't have the part references to hand, but they sit between the output of the power supplies and the power supply caps you're changing. They convert the power supply AC to DC.
 
CD67 SE Mouser - Partial Parts List

Hi All,
I could not locate many of the parts in the USA that were on Ray's list so put together my best guess at what I think I should order from Mouser for the items I plan to modify. Attached is the file. Could someone please review and may recommendations.
- I was not sure about the comment about mounting the Reguators on a Perf board. Is this neccesary or can they be mounted directly on the CD67 circuit board? Is the pinouts different? (Q801/Q802)
- Am I ordering the correct inductors?
- Do the cap values and types look reasonable? I have ordered the 2x12V toroidal x-former.
- Not sure about the ferrites. What are these and what I should order. Are they placed on the inductors when I install them?
- Would it be better to use solid Polymer caps on the 5 volt line at C871?
- Does anyone have a list of the of the caps on the C67 board that should be replaced with Polymer caps (470uF, 6.3V)?
Thanks again for the teams help!



I beleive I will replace the main transformer in my player with a toroid.
- Is there one that is recommended for use with 120Volts?
- I will also need advice on one to use with my flea which requires a DC voltage between 18 and 32 volts. Any thoughts? Perhaps a 15Vac secondary??? Any recommendations of where to get one of these in the US?
Regards,
Jerry
 

Attachments

  • CD67mkII-OSE_mods Partial Mouser List.pdf
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Hi all,

I'm thinking about improving the 5V and +/-12V reg/supply. I think I may also add an extra tx for that. Can I upgrade those in multiple stage ? I mean : 1st I put some super reg just instead of the actual 7805 and 7812 and 7912, and 2nd, I fit new tx and relocate the super regs nearer of the DAC, servo, opamp, etc... ?
 
Last edited:
Hi all,

I'm thinking about improving the 5V and +/-12V reg/supply. I think I may also add an extra tx for that. Can I upgrade those in multiple stage ? I mean : 1st I put some super reg just instead of the actual 7805 and 7812 and 7912, and 2nd, I fit new tx and relocate the super regs nearer of the DAC, servo, opamp, etc... ?
Well, that was exactly what I did with my CD63:p
 
All 14 of them?
D801 - D804
D811 - D814
D851 - D854
DN01 - DN02
I find this on Farnells site:
Farnell Export

I think I will also order some Oscon SEPCs to compare with Rubycons on the digital rail.
I'm not certain to be honest, check out Ray's list, I think it's all detailed in there.
I can't get to your link, but the it has all the right words in :) 11dq10 diode schottky 1.1a 100v.

Also, for the digital rails, you can try Nichicon NS instead of the Oscon SEPCs. They are still Solid Polimer type with very similar specs, but a lot cheaper.
 
Hi all,

I'm thinking about improving the 5V and +/-12V reg/supply. I think I may also add an extra tx for that. Can I upgrade those in multiple stage ? I mean : 1st I put some super reg just instead of the actual 7805 and 7812 and 7912, and 2nd, I fit new tx and relocate the super regs nearer of the DAC, servo, opamp, etc... ?
I think the problem is less about if the standard 7805 is good enough and more about that there is a lot of noisy items on the board all making noise onto the 5v rail and interrupting each other. I suspect that you would get better results from using some simple 7805 onto the DAC (x3) decoder (x2) and also possibly 1 for the large chip that controls the display (because that one makes a lot of noise) than you would get if you only install 1 good low noise regulator into the standard 7805 position. The more separation you can add, the better. Plus, this way will only cost you 10% of the price of 1 good very low noise regulator.

It's not a great photo and the wiring and position is a bit messy, but here you can see the 3 x 7805 currently on my DAC. Makes a nice difference :)
IMAGE_E285DEB9-369D-4E2D-9BC5-B9BBB3D03050.JPG
 
Spower regs are the finest regs you can get but fitting up to 10 can get hellishly expensive, So as you say 7805s are better than stock lm317s are another way to go ray has a simple schematic on his site for a 317 based reg.
cheers guys alan;)
Yes indeedy.
I'm in the process of updating from 7805s now and making some little 5v voltage reg boards based on the miniVreg design using little LT17635 chips. I'll post some details in the next couple of days, but they should be simple, cheap and effective :)