Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

adfinni said:
Hey

I have been measuring voltages on my dead 63 today and have found out that the lines supplied by the glass resistors FH11/12 are dead. I can't get any voltage readings from these resistors or anything else after them.
My question is, when whatever blew around QM01, will it kill the voltages supplied after the component that blew, and still leave a circuit so that voltages can be read before the blown component.
I'm just wondering if it would be obvious that those glass resistors had gone, and should i get another pair? Which ones do you recommend i get if i do need them, and can i get them from maplins?
I ask, as im not sure if they are quick or slow blow, and what exact ratings i need other than what is listed in teh service manual (1.6A, T630ma?)

ta

They are fuses not resistors LOL.

The T in T630mA means they are time lag and they are 630mA fuses.

I have 1amp in mine as the 630mA blows on power up due to the demand from caps lol

Brent
 
rowemeister said:


They are fuses not resistors LOL.

The T in T630ma means they are time lag and they are 630mA fuses.

I have 1amp in mine as the 630mA blows on power up due to the demand from caps lol

Brent

Yep that's what i ment, i knew they were fuses. I do sound like a dummy sometimes:D

OK cool, il probably order some 1a ones. But i was wondering, is it likely that they have blown, causing no voltage readings from anything after them, or would any of the blown (smokey) parts that blew around QM01, automatically produce no readings throughout.

Il try and simplify.lol. If a resistor around qm01 blew, would i still get voltage readings from the 5V reg (Q811)?

cheers

ad
 
adfinni said:


Yep that's what i ment, i knew they were fuses. I do sound like a dummy sometimes:D

OK cool, il probably order some 1a ones. But i was wondering, is it likely that they have blown, causing no voltage readings from anything after them, or would any of the blown (smokey) parts that blew around QM01, automatically produce no readings throughout.

Il try and simplify.lol. If a resistor around qm01 blew, would i still get voltage readings from the 5V reg (Q811)?

cheers

ad


Do you know where the smoke came from???
 
philpoole said:
So, what does the radial servo do?
Its shocking the number of issues we're suddenly getting.

The laser unit has two coils for the lens.

1) Focus coil - This moves the lens up and down to focus the laser beam on the disc

2) Radial coil - This moves the lens left and right (so to speak) so the laser beam can keep track of the data (like a needle does in a groove on a record player)

And the servo controls these coils

Brent
 
gy21 said:
is it ok to put a 470nF/275VAC MKP Capacitor directly accross the mains, instead of the suggested 4,7nF in the cd67ose?

P.s. it is coming from an IE Socket from a computer power supply, it was already connected accross the mains in that powersupply.

Yes it will be fine, not sure the capacitance value will be affective though. Others may enlighten you on best values.

Make sure you solder it in after the switch otherwise you will get a nice tingle when you unplug it and catch the pins.

Brent
 
rowemeister said:


The laser unit has two coils for the lens.

1) Focus coil - This moves the lens up and down to focus the laser beam on the disc

2) Radial coil - This moves the lens left and right (so to speak) so the laser beam can keep track of the data (like a needle does in a groove on a record player)

And the servo controls these coils

Brent


Hi,

Just to clarify something.

QM01 is the driver for the disk motor and the tray motor.
Q106 is the driver for the focus and radial coils [on the laser assembly]
Q105 is the driver for the laser and the sled.

The radial and the sled provide fine and coarse tracking respectively.

The 2 fuses are in the -10v and +10v supplies [+-12v nominal] and are primarily there to blow when a fault occurs such as a jammed tray.

The +5v supply comes of the +10v side - hence the different capacitor values.

If you want to check for damage after replacing the fuses, remove the following R165, R164, R150, R149, R127, R128

That will isolate the supplies to the servo leaving the +5v etc in place.

Andy
 
martin clark said:
your Flea boards made today's post, please tell how you find the idea with utmost honesty. All feedback is good :)

As an aside - I can't agree the AD8620 sounds thin - then again, we all hear things differently.

It's a funny game really, if you are used to a system that has 'edgy' treble and later hear something that's very refined it can actually sound really dull. I think this is why people occasionaly criticise ESL57s and the like, though having owned serviced pairs they really are *stunningly* natural. What I'm getting at is simply this: often that which is 'right' is not immediately impressive...

Best Regards, Martin

Boards received. Now I'm just waiting for a few more components. Then the Tent XO gets what it deserves, optimum working conditions.