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Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list
Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list
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Old 11th March 2008, 08:34 AM   #9321
Frihed89 is offline Frihed89  Denmark
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Default Some more questions

Is this whole thread realy just about modding the CD63 and 67 models?

How low is low for starting skill levels?

I don't understand a word and have no idea what's under the hood of my 67. It's mystifying compared to tube preamps and amps. Where's the power supply? There aren't any input transformers that I can see.

I think I'll lurk a while before making up my mind.

Thank you all for such a warm welcome.

Mac
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Old 11th March 2008, 08:54 AM   #9322
jimh0612 is offline jimh0612  United Kingdom
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Default Re: Some more questions

Quote:
Originally posted by Frihed89
Is this whole thread realy just about modding the CD63 and 67 models?

How low is low for starting skill levels?

Thank you all for such a warm welcome.

Mac

Hi Mac.

Yes its about the CD63/67 with a bit of general Off Topic stuff thrown in!!

If you can solder then that's pretty well all you need - it's all I could do when I started.

If you download the pdf from Ray's site it will tell you all the component refs, along with values of part to be replaced and replacement. The Farnell order codes are there as well.

If you look at the pcb inside the player all refs are clearly marked, and it's mainly just a question of desoldering the old component and replacing with the new.

Do the mods in stages so you can hear the differences, and also so you can narrow it down if you have a problem (dry joints usually)!

The service manual (also on Ray's site, I think) is a great help also, as it shows the underside of the pcb with component refs, making them easier to find.

Like I said, if you can solder and follow a list then you can do it, just take care until you get the hang of it.

Good luck!!

Jim
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Old 11th March 2008, 10:15 AM   #9323
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Default Re: Some more questions

Quote:
Originally posted by Frihed89
How low is low for starting skill levels?
Being able to locate part numbers on the PCB, take the player apart and solder in replacement capacitors.

That's as easy as the good modifications get. The hard part is not breaking anything as they're now quite old and also quite fragile.

If your player sits on a rack or similarly suitable support I'd recommend trying 3 hard cones instead of the flimsy plastic feet it comes with.

You can also pop the lid off and apply a sheet of bitumen on this to reduce the ringing. These 2 mods are super easy as they don't involve using a soldering iron.

Simon
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Old 11th March 2008, 10:31 AM   #9324
poynton is offline poynton  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCruz

Hi Andy

Now I understand the concept.

I want to power the servo with two sregs .

Can I use this tech here ?

I am afraid I might cause some ground loops.

Ricardo

It is really advocating the 'star ground' method.



Andy
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Old 11th March 2008, 04:04 PM   #9325
ahiukka is offline ahiukka  Finland
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Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list
I begun to think is there something wrong with my players opamp section, atleast simulation shows its ok but still I have to ask;

After reading about Mauros mod for adding ~200pF capacitor in I/V section I had to go for it and the second OpAmp section values changed in to this: C605/6 1.2nF, R607/8 13k.

So now I dont know if I'm missing some point in this kind of OpAmp arrangement, or is my filter ok?

-Antti
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Old 11th March 2008, 09:25 PM   #9326
RCruz is offline RCruz  Switzerland
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Quote:
Originally posted by poynton
It is really advocating the 'star ground' method.
Hi Andy
I am preparing the sregs for the servo and these are based on LM317 with two red leds, and read this:
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/

and this:
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/reg...edance1_e.html

I now believe that in order to get a lower noise from the 317 I should bypass the red leds (on adj pin) with a big cap.

As I do not have any 220uF cap as suggested, can I use a 120uF PanaFC instead ?

To improve transient response I want to use a 470uF OsCon in the +5v output. Can you comment on this arrangement please as I do not have an osciloscope and so can not "see" the potencial problems.

Best regards

Ricardo
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Old 11th March 2008, 09:58 PM   #9327
Thomo is offline Thomo  United Kingdom
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Hi Ricardo. From what I've read and experienced whilst building 317 based regs it is best not to use a low esr cap on the adjust pin. Something with a higher esr is better I think. The Pana fc's are very low esr, I usually use just a standard 220uF elco.

edit: Although in my opinion, it's doubtful you will hear much if any difference in the sound.

Lee.
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Old 12th March 2008, 04:53 AM   #9328
magilla is offline magilla  Belgium
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Default Still need help

After a little headphone circuit mod I returned the PCB and the machine will not recognise a disk, service mode says error 12. The ribbon cable looked damaged so replaced it with point to point and the situation has not changed.

What should I do now? Are there any readings? How do I check if Q106 is working?

The sled will move in and out when using the eject button but not from service mode using the cue/review buttons.
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Old 12th March 2008, 01:10 PM   #9329
martin clark is offline martin clark  Europe
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Quote:
I now believe that in order to get a lower noise from the 317 I should bypass the red leds (on adj pin) with a big cap.
The dynamic impedance of the LEDs is so low there is little benefit in doing this. If you wish to bypass, a regular 10uF cap is quite enough to try.

Quote:
To improve transient response I want to use a 470uF OsCon in the +5v output. Can you comment on this arrangement please as I do not have an osciloscope and so can not "see" the potencial problems.
It's not a great idea to use a very low ESR cap like this. 470uF could leak to a tendency to 'ring' somewhere in the midrange (3Khz), depending on the exact layout and implementation details. This might even be audible as a slight emphasis or colouration when used to power an analogue device (like the analogue half of the dac). However, you might get away with it - trust your ears!
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Old 12th March 2008, 03:00 PM   #9330
RCruz is offline RCruz  Switzerland
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Quote:
Originally posted by martin clark
The dynamic impedance of the LEDs is so low there is little benefit in doing this. If you wish to bypass, a regular 10uF cap is quite enough to try.

It's not a great idea to use a very low ESR cap like this. 470uF could leak to a tendency to 'ring' somewhere in the midrange (3Khz), depending on the exact layout and implementation details. This might even be audible as a slight emphasis or colouration when used to power an analogue device (like the analogue half of the dac). However, you might get away with it - trust your ears!
Thank you Martin

I really would like to use a big cap after the regs because i am experiencing good results using the following combination after the Q811 +5v reg (I replaced the stock one by a LM340AT):

(580000uF Sprague powerlytic+470000uF NEC supercap+3600pF ERO KP1832 5% 1.2kv+2700pF NSF Styrofoam + 3u3 AVX Tantalum) (Very Low combined ESR)
This modd really improves transient response.

Now that I am building a dedicated psu for the servo and as I am placing regs near the servo I will loose the benefits of this combination.

Ricardo
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