And how would you make it interface to the rest of the player? Wouldn't you need to write some custom firmware? I'd not know where to begin!
Al, when does it make this noise? I've answered from the point of view that you have just changed the caps in the CDP and the noise happens when you switch off the CDP with amp on. Simon has answered as if its doing it while its all on.
I'm not sure. You would need a 5v and 12v supply. Some kind of interface to the display. (iv'e seen the whole thingy sold with display that would replace the cd63 display) I think a lot of rom drives have digital out. Just a thought really. Gives my tiny brain something to do!
There are threads about making your own rom player (like this one, http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/17910-diy-cd-drive-based-computer-cdrom.html ), and it would probably be a lot easier than converting a cd63, but what's the fun in that?
Big thread! Clearly more than a few people have gone that way. I wonder if it would be an up- or a downgrade in a cd63, though. I think this is probably an option for people who want to learn and have nothing better to do - rather that a full-on assault on sound quality. It would surely be a first in these players if someone did it....
Returning momentarily to my 67': There are whole gaggle (bevy?) of those big fat new Mundorf SI's. Brent insisted on 200 hours of break-in, which is consistent with my previous experience. At this stage (20hrs) the sound is rather tight and not very fluid or sweet but on the other hand the bass has firmed up and the sound stage more convincing in the back and corners. More to come.
This is what Meridian say:
The 808.3 Signature Reference CD Player - offers CD playback from a specially built custom CD-ROM based drive, which allows for data recovery and error correction many times better than that employed in standard CD systems.
Sounds Good. Now you can replace that cdm for the rom drive once I convince Simon and Brent to work out how we do it!
I would like to say "no", never, I'm finished...but I seem to be hooked and coming back for more. Brent has made it clear to me that further mods are going to be complicated and expensive. I've got just about everything in there that is reasonable (since when did reasonable figure into this?). I think i will just sit on the sidelines for a while and concentrate on making some kind of classy wooden casework.
Not the cdp at fault it an amp fault changed amp and no noise,
the amp is a pm84mk2 marantz class a mid 80s needs the psu caps changed my guess thanks
There are many players that use a cd-rom drive - mainly DVD players in fact.
They use the digital signal from the IDE cable rather than the SP/DIF signal or the audio out. Control is also via the IDE cable.
I would probably be right in saying that is the way to go as the SP/DIF and audio out will be made down to a price rather than for sound quality or jitter free operation.
Better error correction is available as the read is at eg 32x so more reads per second. I would rather design or modify to obtain a lower error count in the first place.
Andy
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They use the digital signal from the IDE cable rather than the SP/DIF signal or the audio out. Control is also via the IDE cable.
I would probably be right in saying that is the way to go as the SP/DIF and audio out will be made down to a price rather than for sound quality or jitter free operation.
Better error correction is available as the read is at eg 32x so more reads per second. I would rather design or modify to obtain a lower error count in the first place.
Andy
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Pretty close except I have the C1 clock. THe C2 was too rich for my pocket. I guess Brent would have to tell you the rest; it's gone on too long for my memory. All the usual stuff that was talked about in the beginning as well. And not to forget bypassing the fuses and nice RCA jacks! The rest of the system is up to scratch. I'm just thinking about moving up the speaker food chain and have instigated a chat with Tony Gee of HumbleHifi, who is a very talented designer in that area. He offers kits as well as completed spkrs.
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Sounds like it has the key mods and the old RCA sockets were poor so gains can come from there too. The C1 is also a good clock, though the C2 is better still when heard back to back as I have done. The main improvements (BIG), however, only come from multiple clocking in a player, which is something the CD67 isn't really suited to.
Tony Gee has made some cool speakers!! His site has always been a great source of inspiration.
Tony Gee has made some cool speakers!! His site has always been a great source of inspiration.
Yes he is good and very informative about his work. We are mailing. He's got a TL in the works that might suit if the price is right. I guess there's not much more to do on my player. Maybe those new op amps but they are apparently now lost under the DOS board, which was something we didn't think about. I not about to lift the DOS to get at them either. Like I said, I will now watch the rest of you and concentrate on cosmetics. I will post some pictures when this happens. I need to figure out how to make a fairly tight fitting wooden case that is not too massive and into which I can slide the player. That's a bit of an issue because the underside of the 67 has all kinds of bumps. Have to think it thru.
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About replacing the LM78M12/79M12 with LM317/337. Any instructions for doing this? Also, Ray mentions reversing diodes and caps, but which ones? Why do they have to be reversed?
And quick question before ordering. Ray recommends 54 ohm ferrite beads, but Mouser has 30 ohm beads that are 4x as cheap ($0.07 a piece). Are these good as well? If I use these, should I use more?
And quick question before ordering. Ray recommends 54 ohm ferrite beads, but Mouser has 30 ohm beads that are 4x as cheap ($0.07 a piece). Are these good as well? If I use these, should I use more?
question: Would heat be be an issue if I slot the player into a wooden case? I don't use the metal top and side case anymore so the player is open above, but wood would hold the heat a bit. Since the volage and parts count has increased...
Anyone have experience with the break-in time of these larger Mundorf SI caps?
Anyone have experience with the break-in time of these larger Mundorf SI caps?
S Powers aren't shunt regs so don't get hot for no reason. Some of the mods will, however, increase the under-bonnet temps so it's definitely something to consider with regards to life of electrolytic caps. There'll be a cumulative effect from the regs, clock and output stage.
As long as you don't totally seal the heat in I think you'll be ok.
Why the talk of op-amps Shep? If you have the DOS then you have no op-amps in your circuit. And no op-amp is better than a fine discrete circuit in terms of audio
As long as you don't totally seal the heat in I think you'll be ok.
Why the talk of op-amps Shep? If you have the DOS then you have no op-amps in your circuit. And no op-amp is better than a fine discrete circuit in terms of audio