Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

I am following SimonT and doing an Arcam Alpha instead and having some fun using his instructions - he's such a helpful guy and now, since his first contributiuons 5 years ago, he knows exactly what he's talking about.

lol, I just spotted this now. You're right, I have gone from noobie to occasionally dishing out advice in the span of this thread to-date. I also now have a pretty superb disc-spinner, but it is the Alpha, not the CD63. The CD63 never gave the microdynamics, texture or sheer grand scale of the better older players but it is and always will be a fun player to tinker with, and one capable of incredible bell-like clarity and hyper-detail. Most will not believe this last statement, but it is true ;)
 
wendell said:
OK, knowing what you know now with all the mods done to a 67/63, How would you build a new one from scratch? Which mods would you implement and which ones would you leave out?

It depends how far you wish to take things but in any event (other than for sheer budget fun) you will want the CD63KI as a base. The superior transformer of that player and the more discrete circuitry of the CD63 over the CD67 are the relevant advantages.

In a modest state of tune I'd leave the HDAM in for a funky sound. I'd bypass it if going quite far though as it does cloud things up a little. The standard op-amps are great musically (timing, dynamics, bass etc.) but lacking polish (rough and grainy) and I'd just use the well-known LM4562 or newer-labelled version.

The resistors and poly caps around the output are minor and not worth the hassle unless you're really going all-out. Same with new output sockets.

The massive changes come from putting a dedicated voltage regulator on every circuit and of those the most important seems to be the (2-6 depending on how far you take it) regulators on the servo driver op-amps.

The next most important thing may well be placing a clock each on the DAC and on the servo chip. This, along with the servo change, will make the player smooth and detailed with good space and incredible timing.

The obvious changes of using schottky diodes (smoothness and upper range emphasis) and replacing electrolytic caps (various improvements!) are a given. Os-con SEPC is probably best on the digital rails and Black Gates on the analogue parts. Huge smoothing caps always seem to work well.

Personally, I love the effect of wooden cones on any piece of hi-fi (I always use three) for the full-on dynamic range and smooth tone.

The discrete output sounds good, just that bit more dynamic and fleshy than the LM4562 op-amps but otherwise with a similar sound to my ears. It needs good voltage regulators and DC blocking caps (I love Mundorf Supreme) to sound as clean as it can.

To take the player as far as possible you'll then need to add extra power supplies from a smattering of extra transformers. The coax run of the HF signal seems to be really worthwhile. I heard a large step towards a grain-free, fluid top end.

Other mechanical mods may affect the sound a little but don't assume it will be better: different is likely; better is a bonus if that happens. We're talking slapping on bitumen etc. or adding extra support on the chassis at the bottom.

I've probably forgotten some mods but those are the things I've found when messing with these players. In summary, it's quite cheap to get a really detailed, explicit sound but a really smooth and refined one with deep bass takes every mod you can throw at it! Finally, expect a slight upper midrange emphasis whatever you do, which seems to be a characteristic of the chipset.

Simon
 
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lol, I just spotted this now. You're right, I have gone from noobie to occasionally dishing out advice in the span of this thread to-date. I also now have a pretty superb disc-spinner, but it is the Alpha, not the CD63. The CD63 never gave the microdynamics, texture or sheer grand scale of the better older players but it is and always will be a fun player to tinker with, and one capable of incredible bell-like clarity and hyper-detail. Most will not believe this last statement, but it is true ;)

And they do great sound stage, best I ever heard. Have compared it to a Philips CD723 well modded by a " name " here in France and the CD-43 was 3D all around the room, even outside the room when the poor Philips was only making music at the very point of the speakers. But yes, the life bite of the MIA CD40 is missing.
 
I didn't mention the sound stage because it's not really something I'm interested in. Even live music often has a confusing and unpredictable sound stage to my ears so I find it hard to know what is most correct when listening to reproduced music. I do agree that the CD63 can give a pleasingly expansive and open sound with instruments each in their own space - when given a really good recording.

Ricardo, The DAC analogue reg is definitely important, I totally agree about that. I just didn't mention it because it is probably less important than the servo driver regs, though almost certainly far more deserving of a high-performance regulator.

The short gallery of modded players you did was a fun thing :)

Seeing my player made me remember the crystalline sound on things like Diana Krall. The '63 is hard to beat if that's all you listen to.
 
Hi Ricardo,

I've only heard an '85 once and that was at Brent's place. It sounded very shut-in as standard but even from another room I had to dash in and hear what was making the huge dynamic bass! I'm sure an 85 could be made great but if you can, try to stretch to a CD94, it's really that much better - they even sound really good as standard and I don't think that of many machines. If only playing CDs and not using other sources it's possibly one of the very best machines to modify IMHO, given how expensive a CD7 is.

Simon
 
Simon, thanks for the list of changes and their "correct" order. I have not been as methodical to say the least. Regarding cones: I bought some ebony ones on e-bay. Due to the way the '67 is built, it is very hard to ballance on three cones. There's always one that is not as firmly grounded. I have added weight to the top but this is not a very elegant solution. If I understand rightly, one cone goes under the center of the drive and the others are to find the best ballance. Are yours fixed/glued, or just placed (as are mine)?
 
Simon, thanks for the list of changes and their "correct" order. I have not been as methodical to say the least. Regarding cones: I bought some ebony ones on e-bay. Due to the way the '67 is built, it is very hard to ballance on three cones. There's always one that is not as firmly grounded. I have added weight to the top but this is not a very elegant solution. If I understand rightly, one cone goes under the center of the drive and the others are to find the best ballance. Are yours fixed/glued, or just placed (as are mine)?

I'm not sure about a correct order from a technical or sonics standpoint but from an ease-of-doing-and-adding-to perspective there is a right way.

When I had a CD63 I just had two at the front at the extreme corners and one at the back in the middle. Mine was a KI with extra bitument so it was pretty heavy. I used Russ Andrews' Jumbo Oak Cones, which are very large indeed. I've used double-sided sticky tape and super glue on various boxes, either works just fine. The rear one wants to be more or less under the transformer and the fronts shouldn't matter too much unless you have extra transformers giving a very uneven weight distribution, in which case counter-ballast is the way to go!

Simon
 
Well took delivery of my CD-67OSE yesterday purchased from Eblag and haven't even had it 24hrs and started modding already with a schaffner mains filter, next on the agenda is a Kwack Clock 7.

Who knows where it will end..............

Tom
 

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