Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

As far as the source is the digital from the CD63 it's not out of topic ;)
Seems it's the end of a cycle, I guess my son won't have a CDP in his life but to listen to my discs. Or maybe not even, rip it on a computer once and then it's over.
Digression also for me as I hate non-material music, I like to have the booklet, the lyrics and band's thanks and thus like the LPs very much for that!
I also wonder why those iTunes songs cost so much, you have nothing with but lowered SQ.
 
Hi,

Steve - you have 3 x 7805 regulators on your DAC, and I agree the difference was small compared to the 2 x 7805 servo regs and +-12V supply schottky diode upgrade & mains snubber cap. Those latter mods seemed to give you a more balanced, smooth sound.

I think the C1 has opened the sound up quite nicely, even running off the original 7805 as it does. The treble certainly seemed more precise and the bass has gained impact and lost some bloat. I don't think your CD67 was close to the sound you have now.

Simon
 
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As people keep asking the same question I'll point out the obvious differences why a stock CD67 basically sounds better and a well-modified CD63 will always sound superior.

1. On the CD63 the decoder and servo are separate chips. The servo gets its timing frequency from a nasty blue crystal running at 8.xMhz. On the CD67 some cost-cutting was done to run these functions on the same chip. I believe the timing signal comes from the DAC's 16.9Mhz crystal. This is better given no modifications, and better still if you upgrade the 16.9Mhz input with a good clock. However, if you ALSO upgrade the blue xtal on the servo with a dedicated clock it will LEAP AHEAD of the CD67. The change you will hear is mainly in detail and the control of treble. Imaging will also improve. This mod cannot be done to a CD67 so it will never be as good.

2. On the CD63 one single 7805 (5V regulator) powers all of the player's 5V circuits, of which there are about 20 (I haven't time to count right now). There is obviously a lot of contamination between these circuits and that's why the player sounds muddy, muffled and harsh as standard. Some people, including reviewers, may find this muddy sound "analogue" but on a good amp and speakers it should be heard for what it is.

On the CD67 some of the heaviest polluters - the driver chips that control the laser and motors - are powered from a dedicated 7805. This is a better situation and I believe it's one of the key reasons the player sounds a bit better to some people as standard.

3. The layout and some other parts choices are also slightly different, arguably better but it's a small evolution. Furthermore, I think where there's a discrete HF (or was that RF?) amp on the CD63 it was replaced by a chip on the CD67. As standard this is probably better (I'd *guess* because ICs are typically more immune to noise) but when modified and fed clean power the discrete version may give the edge.

Now - choose the CD67 if you want a mediocre player to listen to, choose the CD63 if you want to mod the hell out of it :)

Simon
 
I'm pretty sure the cd67 has the servo integrated into the decoder because Philips discontinued production of the chipset used in the cd63.

Incidentally, I saw the other day that the Philips cdPro mechanism (the uber-pricey metal jobbie) uses the latest integrated servo/decoder ic. Which aint for me.

Lee.
 
Simon (or anyone),
did you tried to feed the HF Amp with a dedicated regulator? Worth it? In fact there should see no noise if possible, it desreves that, doesn't it?

Matthieu

edit: Ian, yes you can separate 5Vs with loads of 7805s. You can make a good step up with LM317s. When I changed op amp +/-12 with these (317/337) it has made a big improvement, the LM4562 were not that good without, even with the good ZL caps. This is a must be done, at least.
 
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Hi,

my 2 cents worth.

I think you have to be careful defining which changes make the biggest difference.

In the past I've added a clock and then done the split dac regs. Also done the split dac regs and then later added a clock.

In both cases I'd have said the second change was the biggest difference. I guess the answer is that some changes make very little diiference on their own but enable much bigger differences in conjunction with some other changes.

Regards

Pete
 
Hi Pete,

Yes, very good point you have there. Some mods work synergistically with others, whereas others combined may not have the same balanced sound or wow factor.

A lot of beginners just upgrade their output stage and need to understand this. Just fettling the analogue bit will let you hear all the garbage before it and you don't want to make the mistake of thinking that's the output stage you're truly hearing.

Simon
 
Hi simon i have played a few cds today and the 63 sounds good but i think the 67 was slightly more detailed and i think the midrange on the 67 was better on the 63 it sounds a little thin and blured. It seems to me that the 63 needs alot of money to get it to sound perfect. But i have only had a few hours listening and it could be down to some thing else like dirty mains signal so to be fair it needs longer listening
 
Opamp Oscillation

Hi,

I've read various notes here about opamps oscillating.

I don't think I've ever seen anything describing the symptoms of this, how to recognise opamp oscillation from some other problem.

I don't suppose it's a motor boat sound that can suddenly come on after 3-4 hours playing (my current problem with an old 373 :confused:)

Regards

Pete
 
Hi all if anyone feels like emailing me the idiots guide to using 7805s in a 63 i would really appreciate it ;) Ian ic read 37 at hot mail dot co dot uk:cloud9:

I did like that:
moved the PS caps closer to ICs at the small bypass one place, use the left space from lytic caps to fit ground pin and output pin of the 7805, bend the input in air and wire it to my voltage input. You'll have to remove the original link to 5V from the player.
Check this Simon's how to for where to check:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=912482#post912482

About judging the CDP sound all have been said. I've caught myself only using my last new records on... CDR, then shifted to good old CDs I know well. Damn, the player is more upgraded that I tought! Faster, holding the bottom far better. I also do not have the hyper speakers or top class amp... that tempers my listenings a lot.
 
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Thanks Malefoda

I think i may be able to follow that, i have some questions though.....

This is what i have to hand for main smoother i have 2x1000 35v elnas removed from 67 or 2x1000 25v rjh elnas
for a cap before and after i have 220 16v silmics or 100 25v cerafines
My guess would be 1xrjh main then silmics

Could i use both rjhs to increase value? if so would i run them in series or parallel?
Just to make sure series would be +/-+/- parallel +/+ -/-

Did i mention an idiots guide?:eek:

Cheers Ian
 
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You misunderstand me (again, I may not handle english that well); I meant the player has improved more than what I tought buy judging it with new records and on CDR. The changes were more obvious with pressed CDs I know for years, e.g. The Almighty "Powertrippin" has the clearer bass I've heard on my CDPs, which means it's better than if it was worst or at the same level.
I guess pressed CDs help the sound a bit, I find, without having burnt CDs I own to compare, that the player gets more from a real CD.
Should try with SHM-CD and Gold like MFSL ones.
And as the regulated drivers should add to that my player will be a very good deal... at least I have to convince me ;)