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Old 18th March 2007, 09:52 AM   #6011
poynton is offline poynton  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by 6h5c




Interesting discussion about the LM4562 BTW, it's not the ultimate opamp for me either. Indeed it gives a lot of extra detail and information to the music, but in the long run I find it too sterile and clean.
The very low noise and distortion of the LM4562 obviously contribute to it's ability to extract extra detail and information.

It would be interesting to see a circuit diagram but TI are keeping it secret (for now). I may get hold of some of the single chips and compare them to the LM6171/627 combo.

Andy


EDIT ...... There is a large thread on the LM4562.......

Bob Pease on the New LM4562
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Old 18th March 2007, 09:58 AM   #6012
avr300 is offline avr300  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally posted by 6h5c


I like my AD8610/AD8510 combo better, it involves me more in the music. Guess it must be the AD-sound.

Regards,

Ray

With AD8510 in the PWM sum, and the AD8610 in the filter ?
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Old 18th March 2007, 10:15 AM   #6013
6h5c is offline 6h5c  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally posted by avr300
With AD8510 in the PWM sum, and the AD8610 in the filter ?
No, just the other way around.

Ray
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Old 18th March 2007, 10:49 AM   #6014
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Quote:
Originally posted by poynton



I really think that you are worrying too much !!!!!!!!!!

Andy
Quote:
Originally posted by 6h5c


Me too, but I didn't want to mention it LOL .

Ray
Ok I know this is me and one of my flaws...
Don't english people have the saying "Le mieux est l'ennemi du bien", standing for "better is the enemy of the good"... If I tell you I spend many long minutes to make the Epcos blue caps in line on the PCB... Anyway, I order my X0 right now Thanks guys !
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Old 18th March 2007, 11:24 AM   #6015
avr300 is offline avr300  Denmark
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Makes sense, the fastest opamp nearest the PWM.
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Old 18th March 2007, 12:46 PM   #6016
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Trying to switch the CD63KI TX into mij CD67 I get the suspision that something has gone (seriously ) wrong. The player doesn't turn on anymore.

at U311 and U312 I measure 29 volts???? at U305 'til U310 the voltages are according to the schedule...

Anybody any idea what has gone wrong, and what I should do?

(I hope this high voltage didn't destroy any sensible parts)

Thanks in advance
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Old 18th March 2007, 06:10 PM   #6017
Thomo is offline Thomo  United Kingdom
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Hi. Did you compare with the KI to ensure you connected the toroid wires correctly?

If not, I have attached a pic which may help (it's a bit low qual tho'). Check fuses also.

Lee.
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File Type: jpg ki toroid.jpg (67.3 KB, 259 views)
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Old 18th March 2007, 08:25 PM   #6018
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the object is to keep this thread going until the last 63 and 67 have gone to dust Marantz never dreamed...Right, Time and Patience have to be metered so I'll get to the point. malefoda has kindly sourced some dip 4562's for me, and some caps to go with it. I'm assuming these have to be soldered underneath and assume there's space. Which means taking the whole damn player apart gag... I would really appreciate two things; a pic. of the opamps in place so I don't screw up the direction again
(should be easy to do) and not so easy, if any of you have pics of the mods in progress so I can see exactly where the caps go and if they have a +-side. I would be too embarassed to get this wrong
Having been bitten by the diy virus (is it fatal? other than to equipment...), I wonder if you have seen or heard or used the Burson OPamp? Yes it's pricey but the work involved in making it gives me heartburn to think about.
http://www.bursonaudio.com/Burson_Promotion.htm.
Last but not least, my 67 came from Brent. It's not fully tricked out but sounds... well it should sound great. Trouble is it's got trouble. Even though it was shipped within the UK and carried to me by hand, "they" managed to give it a nice dent in the case. From day one it had the following issue; sometimes it will play and sometimes I have to give it a bang to start. othertimes it will start to spit and mistrack or give up altogether. This has nothing to do with what kind of cds I play. I assume the laser is out of allignment. Brent has of course agreed to take it in but that means serious shipping costs and the possibility that "they" do their mischief again. I would just as well change the whole sled/mechanism. It's easy to do and should cost less, I guess. Anyone know where I can get a new one and what it costs?
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Old 18th March 2007, 08:30 PM   #6019
poynton is offline poynton  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by shepperd
................... I wonder if you have seen or heard or used the Burson OPamp? Yes it's pricey but the work involved in making it gives me heartburn to think about.
http://www.bursonaudio.com/Burson_Promotion.htm.............

There has been a lot of discussion on the forum re Burson products. They even resorted to a little underhand self-promotion last year.

I think the general concensus was that they are OK but not exceptional. They are also sold as OEM by the manufacturer in China.

A search should find some threads.

If you consider going this far, the discrete output stage is by far better and easy for even a novice DIYer with reasonable soldering skills. (with care)


Andy

PS.....use www.bursonaudio.com
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Old 18th March 2007, 08:44 PM   #6020
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Thanks! that get's that bug out of my system...just curiosity ya know..next?
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