Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

rowemeister said:
P.S Glad the Burson worked a treat in your Philips ;)


Did eventually! I glued the Burson between the 2 DOS boards (looks quite neat!) and connected the OP directly to the non inverting inputs on the DOS. 3 times I pulled it all apart until I realised that I hadn't connected the feedback R accross the Burson (it was still on the main PCB) DOH!

Works a treat now though, Happy days!!

Just need to sink the Regs. They are getting pretty hot supplying the Burson and the DOS! :hot:

Anyone else tried those Chineese HDAM's? They look fairly well made & not too expensive!
 
Glenn2 said:


Did you match the 10k and 27k resistors between the DAC and first op-amp?

You usually get some offset from the DAC, but there is no reason for it to differ between left and right.

In my 63 and 67, it was about 20mV - 25mV, and coming from the DAC (difference between LO & LON, and difference between RO & RON).

The HDAM can disguise these offsets as they often have 10-20mV of their own.

On my 63 with HDAM it was +35mV/+15mV until I removed the HDAM and it was +25mV on both channels. Not enough to matter anyway.

Hi Glenn

I left the 10K & 27K resistors in place. I just cant find any discrepancy. Looks like I need some DC blocking. I have a couple of Mundorf 10uF caps. Could try them?
 
padman said:
Hi Guys

What type of wire do you use within the cd player e.g HDAM bypass and removing c655, c656, c657 and c658.
I'm thinking litz or kimber but i'm struggling to find litz online.
Can cat5 be used?
Many thanks Ian

Buy the cheapo Kimber Brent's shop has, or find some on Ebay. Even the "basic" ones - Kwik, 4PR, 4VS are better than most other wire. As it's braided (a type of litz) you can unravel it and use a short length, say 1M, for loads of internal wiring work.

Simon
 
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SimontY said:


Buy the cheapo Kimber Brent's shop has, or find some on Ebay. Even the "basic" ones - Kwik, 4PR, 4VS are better than most other wire. As it's braided (a type of litz) you can unravel it and use a short length, say 1M, for loads of internal wiring work.

Hi Simon

Until now I have been using Kimber TCSS cable that uses a "Teflon dielectric and fine internal strands of high purity copper wire of varying gauges".

I find it very difficult to "get naked" because there are several diameter wires inside and the smaller ones break easily.

I also find the 4TC very stiff and prone to suck desoldering fluid into the dressed parts of the wire... leading to corrosion.

Apart from that they deliver a very balanced sound with good bass and trebble extension.

Are there better kimber options ?

Ricardo
 
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After all this time I somehow feel strange asking these questions ... But the only knowledge I got about cables came from the net and the info sparce.

Your quote is quite enlightening "the dielectric is polyethylene, which is softer, and I personally believe more natural in sound than teflon"

How is polyethylene known in the market ?

Polypropylene = PP

Teflon = TFT

Ricardo
 
Teflon is a brand name = PTFE
Polyethylene = PE (I think!)

Most audio cables and interconnects use PE, whilst the expensive ones use PTFE. PTFE over polished, cryo-treated, 6N pure silver is probably as expensive as it comes.

There's a lot of rubbish talked out there. Expensive stuff is better only if you're after certain things - the most detail, space etc. Music-making ability is a different matter IMHO.
 
Simon -

I do believe the sound of my uber silver lead (with teflon) is natural and open, not like most silver interconnects at all.

RCruz -

I got my AGSS off ebay for £25 (1M) just before the price hike. Have you seen how much it is these days!!!!!

AGSS

Wonder what my 0.5m interconnect made with 16 strands of AGSS & WBT AG nextgens is worth (I paid £200) LOL

Brent
 
Thanks for the replies on internal wire, as usual very informative.

As the man UV101 is send some parts for me to play with today:D
the modding will start soon enough :cool:

i have some standard cable i will use for the 1st round, just for the feel of it.

I emailed brents shop for a little advice on what and how many caps to purchase ready for the next round! I will get me sum o that kimber then!

Round 1 will be power smoothing opamps, shottkeys and lose the dc caps. I canee wait :D
 
rowemeister said:
I do believe the sound of my uber silver lead (with teflon) is natural and open, not like most silver interconnects at all.

When you demoed it (blind test I should say) for me against another good interconnect it was clearly superior and with no "silver" issues whatsoever. Bl00dy expensive wire though.


padman said:
Round 1 will be power smoothing opamps, shottkeys and lose the dc caps. I canee wait :D

A good start. The DC blocking bypass is quite profound - and free!