Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 563

Malefoda · 12th February 2007, 04:06 PM

Thanks Simon and Brent,

so I'll have to change the connector, maybe one side solder a ribbon cable like a PC IDE one, and other side the same with between an ugly plug type like a DB25... or just solid solder on both sides. And of course the coax mod

The harder for this task is... to find again the posts wich explain where and how to!

Whatever I'll order a spare VAM12.1 in case of (is that correct?), Thanks again!

SimontY · 12th February 2007, 04:11 PM

Well you could just start with the HF/coax mod! This is important for sound quality too, so a good start. A new mech won't hurt and could even help sound quality that little extra bit.

Simon

Malefoda · 12th February 2007, 05:20 PM

Ya and with my already fully modded PCB as Ray's list, It's ready to take full advantage of my flea and Audiocom super regs! It should remove a couple of veil again

SimontY · 12th February 2007, 05:23 PM

It won't remove any veils, sorry. It will just take some roughness out of the top end and midrange. It's important though, if subtle.

Malefoda · 12th February 2007, 05:59 PM

Yeah I've read that's the final touch wich remove the digital sound more to analog one.
Thanks for support Simon!

TDLofCC · 13th February 2007, 07:49 AM

What is the HF Coax mod ?

Any links on howto do this ?

YoungSC · 13th February 2007, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by TDLofCC
What is the HF Coax mod ?

Any links on howto do this ?

I've been meaning to post about this myself. I've got a half drawn picture for proof reading which I'll try to finish off.

jksmurf · 13th February 2007, 08:10 AM

Sorry for the bump (repeat), but I'd really like to clear this up before we start ruining the main board. We have built 5 raygulators, 2 x 12V (+/-) and 3 x +5V. This Q is only for the 12V ones.

I first started looking at just putting the 12V Raygulators in the original "drop-in" locations of the 7812 and 7912 (CD67SE btw), like in this pic from Ray back at Post # 1981. Then I started reading and reading and it seems like these ones are "better placed closer to the opamps".

e.g. Peter's comment above and

If I do this, does that mean I REMOVE the 7812 and 7912's at Q801 and Q802 and do what Rowey recommended to Aussie Simon? i.e.

Quote:

Remove R613-R616. Make a note of which resistor has +12V and -12V. Solder both regs into two of the holes (+/-) at the opamp side of the removed resistors. Then once these are in bridge with some wire from one reg to the appropriate spot so the other opamp can recieve the same voltage IE +12v reg soldered into R613 and then bridged to R614 (solder -ve reg into R616). For now you can use the +/- 20V from C803/C804 and maybe upgrade at a later date. Remove C806 and C805 as these are not used now. Before you switch on I would recommend removing the opamps so when you power it up you can check the voltages with out any damaged caused to them if you have done it wrong. PIN 8 = +12V & PIN 4 = -12V"

(Presumably the same goes for any 7805 regs for the 5V rails). I'll need to ask for details on exactly "how to" do that later (with pics).

YoungSC · 13th February 2007, 08:53 AM

Alright, here's a fairly poor diagram of what I think the coax mod entails.

The attractive colours are for each run of coax. The black lines are for the shield to attach to ground.

I assume for this mod you remove the following:

U100
U131
U132
U171
U172
U188
U189
U193
RD14 (aka C521)
R501

Can one of the experts please tell me if this is correct? If not I'll update it and it can be a reference for other pilgrims.

Thanks,

Simon (Oz)

YoungSC · 13th February 2007, 08:55 AM

BTW, I just replaced C803/4 with Panasonic FC 2200uF and the 5V regulator with a Super-Raygulator.

The positive thing is, the CD player is still working.

The sound definitely didn't get any worse, and it sounds good.

It's a bit hard to tell if there are any improvements. Waiting for my Black Gates to arrive from America for the separate power supplies.

12th February 2007, 04:06 PM	#5621
Malefoda diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2006	Thanks Simon and Brent, so I'll have to change the connector, maybe one side solder a ribbon cable like a PC IDE one, and other side the same with between an ugly plug type like a DB25... or just solid solder on both sides. And of course the coax mod The harder for this task is... to find again the posts wich explain where and how to! Whatever I'll order a spare VAM12.1 in case of (is that correct?), Thanks again! __________________ Old simple TT, cheap CDP with wise mods, Class T amp at its best: music!

12th February 2007, 04:11 PM	#5622
SimontY diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sheffield, North England	Well you could just start with the HF/coax mod! This is important for sound quality too, so a good start. A new mech won't hurt and could even help sound quality that little extra bit. Simon __________________ Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 \| Philips CD650 \| my 3-way dipoles \| T-bass for dipoles \| EnABL treatment \| Arcam Alpha (CD)

12th February 2007, 05:20 PM	#5623
Malefoda diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2006	Ya and with my already fully modded PCB as Ray's list, It's ready to take full advantage of my flea and Audiocom super regs! It should remove a couple of veil again __________________ Old simple TT, cheap CDP with wise mods, Class T amp at its best: music!

12th February 2007, 05:23 PM	#5624
SimontY diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Sheffield, North England	It won't remove any veils, sorry. It will just take some roughness out of the top end and midrange. It's important though, if subtle. __________________ Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 \| Philips CD650 \| my 3-way dipoles \| T-bass for dipoles \| EnABL treatment \| Arcam Alpha (CD)

12th February 2007, 05:59 PM	#5625
Malefoda diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2006	Yeah I've read that's the final touch wich remove the digital sound more to analog one. Thanks for support Simon! __________________ Old simple TT, cheap CDP with wise mods, Class T amp at its best: music!


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13th February 2007, 07:49 AM	#5626
TDLofCC diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2006	What is the HF Coax mod ? Any links on howto do this ?

13th February 2007, 08:53 AM	#5629
YoungSC diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	Alright, here's a fairly poor diagram of what I think the coax mod entails. The attractive colours are for each run of coax. The black lines are for the shield to attach to ground. I assume for this mod you remove the following: U100 U131 U132 U171 U172 U188 U189 U193 RD14 (aka C521) R501 Can one of the experts please tell me if this is correct? If not I'll update it and it can be a reference for other pilgrims. Thanks, Simon (Oz)

13th February 2007, 08:55 AM	#5630
YoungSC diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2006	BTW, I just replaced C803/4 with Panasonic FC 2200uF and the 5V regulator with a Super-Raygulator. The positive thing is, the CD player is still working. The sound definitely didn't get any worse, and it sounds good. It's a bit hard to tell if there are any improvements. Waiting for my Black Gates to arrive from America for the separate power supplies.

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