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Old 9th February 2007, 03:50 PM   #5601
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by poynton
SimontY

I prefered the other avatar!

Andy
The distinctive face, green with envy over someone else's CD player?

I'll have my "cigar on holiday in Crete" face for a bit

By the way, I like the valve

Simon
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Old 9th February 2007, 04:26 PM   #5602
avr300 is offline avr300  Denmark
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At least now we know why you turned green.
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Old 9th February 2007, 07:26 PM   #5603
TDLofCC is offline TDLofCC  Netherlands
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Alright ... I made the two new regulators for the +12v/-12v ... bought some IC feet ... and got down to soldering them in the CD player.

The feet were pretty easy, the regulators ... not so easy.

I checked, checked again and double checked just to be sure I understood what I was doing ... and found a little error in the -12v regulator. So I fixed that ... Hooked everything up and turned it on.

No sound. Alrighty ... PANIC

I took a look at the +12v regulator and saw that the input and the ouput pin were connected ... letting the full current run though it. It felt hot and smelled burned. WRONG ...

Took it out and put the 7812 back in there ... back was the sound

SO ... tomorrow I'll get me a new LM317 and re-try it

I'll make some pictures when they're done
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Old 9th February 2007, 07:26 PM   #5604
Thomo is offline Thomo  United Kingdom
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Hi guys.

I'm back again with another problem. I tried the servo reclocking as suggested by Brent (thanks for the info on that btw). Unfortunately a broken wire in my 5v regs plonked itself onto the +20v feed.....

.....So I replaced the fried dac and reworked my regs.

Problem is, when I connect 5v into vacant C4 hole (xtal power) and power up the tx starts buzzing. If I power up without the 5v supply connected to c4 it doesn't buzz.

I have checked the regs voltage and it's defo 5v.

Help! Anyone?

Lee.
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Old 9th February 2007, 10:21 PM   #5605
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If a tx buzzes it usually because there is a short or demanding load.

It seems strange the 5v output is ok though,mmmmm can you remove the 5v reg with it still wired to the +20v. Check the 5V track to ground for resistance.
Also when in circuit does the 5v reg get hot

Brent
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Old 10th February 2007, 01:22 AM   #5606
jksmurf is offline jksmurf  Hong Kong
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Quote:
Originally posted by Peter Venema
I think that placing the regulators as close as possible to the part it has to feed is the way to go.

I just have relocated the 12V regulators to the empty HDAM space and the sound has become more solid and faster and
a wider soundstage was notable as well.
My head is spinning. This monster thread has amazing info, but the efforts Ray and Rowey have put into the original consolidated pdf's seem to have become diluted in 10 billion alternative ways to kill the proverbial cat... great for you guys that know what you're doing, but for me, it's a 'mare :-) If I ever get this right, I might try to consolidate some of the info into a "DIY Audio for complete dummies with pics" pdf.

Anyway, to my Q, which is a simple one. We have built 5 raygulators, 2 x 12V (+/-) and 3 x +5V. This Q is only for the 12V ones.

I first started looking at just putting the 12V Raygulators in the original "drop-in" locations of the 7812 and 7912 (CD67SE btw), like in this pic from Ray back at Post # 1981. Then I started reading and reading and it seems like these ones are "better placed closer to the opamps".

e.g. Peter's comment above and

If I do this, does that mean I REMOVE the 7812 and 7912's at Q801 and Q802 and do what Rowey recommended to Aussie Simon? i.e.

Quote:
Remove R613-R616. Make a note of which resistor has +12V and -12V. Solder both regs into two of the holes (+/-) at the opamp side of the removed resistors. Then once these are in bridge with some wire from one reg to the appropriate spot so the other opamp can recieve the same voltage IE +12v reg soldered into R613 and then bridged to R614 (solder -ve reg into R616). For now you can use the +/- 20V from C803/C804 and maybe upgrade at a later date. Remove C806 and C805 as these are not used now. Before you switch on I would recommend removing the opamps so when you power it up you can check the voltages with out any damaged caused to them if you have done it wrong. PIN 8 = +12V & PIN 4 = -12V"
(Presumably the same goes for any 7805 regs for the 5V rails). I'll need to ask for details on exactly "how to" do that later (with pics).
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Old 10th February 2007, 05:14 AM   #5607
TDLofCC is offline TDLofCC  Netherlands
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I have some questions about the other 78xx regulators in the CD player. I know that the +12v and -12v is for the opamps.

What are the 7805 with the heatsinks for ?

And is it a good idea to replace them too ?
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Old 10th February 2007, 08:54 AM   #5608
Thomo is offline Thomo  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by rowemeister

It seems strange the 5v output is ok though,mmmmm can you remove the 5v reg with it still wired to the +20v. Check the 5V track to ground for resistance.
Also when in circuit does the 5v reg get hot

Brent

Checked the 5v track to ground and measured around 200r.

I think the reg does get hot quickly, but I haven't left it powered up long incase it blew something (else).

Update: The buzzing occurs whenever I connect 5v to any part of the dac/decoder circuit. I don't think it's a problem with the regs cos I tried 3 different ones and my 5v invisus...

Could the decoder be fried?

Lee.
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Old 10th February 2007, 09:00 AM   #5609
Glenn2 is offline Glenn2  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by TDLofCC
What are the 7805 with the heatsinks for ?

And is it a good idea to replace them too ?
If you're talking about a 53 or 63, the 7805 powers the DAC, decoder, CPU, front end (RF, HF amp) and servo processor.
The servo amps are unregulated.

If you're talking about a 57 or 67, the rightmost 7805 powers the DAC, decoder/servo processor, CPU and front end. The one on the left powers the servo amps.

The main problem is that there is so much running of one regulator, so replacing it with a better one will not gain you a huge amount. All these ICs 'talk' to each other via their power supply. The best gains are to be had by giving the DAC its own separate regulator. You can go further and have three powering the DAC. One for the digital section, one for the analogue section, and one for the clock buffer. This I recommend.

A chap called Robert Noriega ('Bobwire') did a quick and dirty on how to add extra regulators to a CD67 though he only has one on the DAC.

Bobwire's CD67 write-up

Here's a neat way of using LM317 regulators but can also be applied to 7805s. Shown is the clock gate regulator (courtesy of Martin Clark's excellent website.)

LM317
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Old 10th February 2007, 12:35 PM   #5610
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Default Stubborn guy...

Quote:
Originally posted by Malefoda
Hi there!

First, I've now a gain at my Hphones opamp of... 1! So It's almot useless here, is it ok to remove all? I mean bypass all hphones pcb (and remove stuff) and wire from C901/C902 (removed) to J901. Then may C980 be upgraded for sound?

Second, we have an exclusive Nora Jones performance on one of our biggest radio here, I'll try to record it at CD's PCM specs. Does some want it?

Thanks for hphones answer
So any advices for my headphones amp? It's a now and then use, so I think there's right now no need of a real headphones amp, but I want to make a good use of the CD53's one.

Thanks.

note: the Jones' performance was very nice, and on the web you can find Krall has done the same at Studio 104 from this radio.
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