Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

sherphing said:
hi guy... i read the previous post regarding the skipping read error can fix by adjusting the Variable resistor near the laser head there...is it really help? where it located?


rowemeister said:
Usually adjusting this variable resistor will kill the laser or allow it to work but it will have a short life.

Brent


If you adjust the laser as told from service manual everything is OK.
I have noticed though, when you tweak a lot (other bigger lyths and so on), you are forced to adjust it.
Been there done that

My player skipped alot after all tweaks. Adjusting laser and focus .... everything is fine now:) (Marantz CD 65II)
 
Radioman62 said:






If you adjust the laser as told from service manual everything is OK.
I have noticed though, when you tweak a lot (other bigger lyths and so on), you are forced to adjust it.
Been there done that

My player skipped alot after all tweaks. Adjusting laser and focus .... everything is fine now:) (Marantz CD 65II)


The CDM12.x is a completely different animal to the CDM4.x


Andy
 
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padman []
diyAudio Member

Online
Registered: Oct 2008
Location: ipswich





hello people

I have just aquired a marantz cd67 mk11

I have limited funds and even less experience with electronics

im looking to improve the above cd player, i read the threads, and get lets say a little lost!

Any1 willing to supply info on mods that are simple enough for a real novice ie never taken anything electrical apart or weilded a soldering iron!!

1st what iron to buy? what solder to use? where to buy componants? what mods really work? etc etc

I was thinking my 1st attack would be chassis dampening iec socket/cable and isolation platform but where to go from there?

any replies would be welcome thanks all ian



IP: 82.31.76.xxx

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Re: Re: DOS Mighty DOS

6h5c said:


Cool huh! :cool:

The story that parts need breaking-in is confirmed again.

A similar circuit for a phono stage is a whole different ballgame. Signal levels are very small (noise!), and RIAA correction must be implemented of course. There are good discrete designs floating around, a search will probably produce some threads :D


Have a wee look here I built this years ago and it sounds FAB.

http://www.soton.ac.uk/~apm3/diyaudio/JLH_phono.html
 
padman said:
1st what iron to buy? what solder to use? where to buy componants? what mods really work? etc etc

I was thinking my 1st attack would be chassis dampening iec socket/cable and isolation platform but where to go from there?

any replies would be welcome thanks all ian


The antex xs25 is a good quality all round iron Silicon cable recommended available here

http://www.rapidonline.com/producti...ier4=Lead-free+soldering+irons&moduleno=73126

And this is quality solder

http://www.rapidonline.com/producti...3=Solder+&+Fluxes&tier4=Solder&moduleno=30236

Find an old circuit board to practice on or you will likely render your Marantz useless
Good luck!!!!!
 
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Re: Re: Re: DOS Mighty DOS

hotiron said:
6h5c said:


Cool huh! :cool:

The story that parts need breaking-in is confirmed again.



Hi

It seems that film caps take even longer to break in period than the BG caps.

Sound is now becoming really impressive.

Sounstage is becoming aparent, bass is awesome, dynamics can now compete with my humble RD80 TT.....

In a word... I am now a digital "believer"

A little out of this thread but worth reporting:

Some time ago, I read something about isolating mains from my pre and power amp.

Today I implemented a dedicated mains outlet (with a sturdy switch and some 10nF caps) in my Meridian 101 / 103 setup.

Now I have a second switch to turn the system on.. (My wife did agree...:D ).. and a 2.5mm2 supra cable from there to the mains.

The pre switch only controls the pre itself right now... so both are isolated from each other.

I was expecting some improvements but I was not ready for this.... Much more headroom... lower distortion... and much better dynamics.

Regards

Ricardo
 
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padman said:
lol thanks hotiron im now briming with confidence lol!!

seriously im only thinking of a few tweaks open up the sound a little and tighten up the bass.

good idea on the practise board got a non working sky box to play with. ian


Try removing the output caps and replacing the stock 7805 main +5v reg by a LM304AT (better +5v reg).

Next replace the rectifier diodes by some schottky.

You will surelly hear a big difference.

Ricardo
 
RCruz said:



Try removing the output caps and replacing the stock 7805 main +5v reg by a LM304AT (better +5v reg).

Next replace the rectifier diodes by some schottky.

You will surelly hear a big difference.

Ricardo


:smash: Ian aint even got an iron yet let him practice on his old SKY box!
Think you meant LM340AT-5

I have enjoyed your upgrades over the past year or so I am also a TT man but find CDs more alcohol friendly I working with Ye good old CD63 and two rotel RCD855s right now one standard the other modded, so I can always go back and prove I am not deluding myself.
Long may this thread continue Many thanks Ray
Kind regards Cha
PS I think everybody else is in the bar right now! LOL
 
L700 said:
recently just bought CD63 just for USD100 with new VAM1202 lens

i just do some minor mod the mod its correct got anythings need to touch up hehehe

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

PCB not set right should be on top of metal tab, top right of pic.
remove C659 C660 next to phono sockets,
feed DAC with its own 5V reg through u164.
Get some nice silver teflon coated wire for mods from electronic scrap. Go to scrap yard!
 
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hotiron said:


Think you meant LM340AT-5

I have enjoyed your upgrades over the past year or so I am also a TT man but find CDs more alcohol friendly
You are right LM340AT-5

Thank you for your follow up ;)

I still believe it is much easier to get a full on sound with a TT.

After all this time and mods, I still think I need more upgrades in the CDP....

hotiron said:


PCB not set right should be on top of metal tab
I can even see the pcb bending from here.:hot:
 
RCruz said:

You are right LM340AT-5

Thank you for your follow up ;)

I still believe it is much easier to get a full on sound with a TT.

After all this time and mods, I still think I need more upgrades in the CDP....

I can even see the pcb bending from here.:hot:


lol its because when i bought it is like that i just follow to put back maybe the previous owner changing the lens put back .... wrongly :(
 
L700 said:
recently just bought CD63 just for USD100 with new VAM1202 lens

i just do some minor mod the mod its correct got anythings need to touch up hehehe

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


why not post us the OPA Earth in the 63 together with your review.
 
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rowemeister said:
I personally dont think removing the muting transistors makes much difference, it's just another tweak

Hi Brent

I agree with you... I did not notice any big difference when I removed the mutting transistors near the output.

I have another important question for you....:D

I am now studying the new PSU for the Decoder.

I want to place some LM340AT-5 around the Decoder and HF amp.

I am planning to do the following:
Replace R511 (Analog +5v PSU) with a reg
Replace R508 (Digital +5v PSU) with a reg
Replace R505 (HF Amp +5v PSU) with a reg

I will use a TX with two 9V windings and build two separated PSU using your PSU PCB´s.

Can I use one winding (+ smoothing + rectifier) for the Decoder Digital + HF amp, and the other winding for the Decoder Analog ?

As I am using LM304AT, and want to place them near the IC´s, can you recommend an output cap for each situation ?

Also, can I pull the reference GND from each reg to the star earth or should I connect these GND locally ?

Regards

Ricardo