Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 52 - diyAudio
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Old 2nd February 2006, 12:05 PM   #511
poynton is offline poynton  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by 6h5c
Here's another one tht uses part of the CD67 circuit.
It's in dutch: http://members.chello.nl/~p.gelderen...67/cd67out.htm
Input is very similar to what you are using except loaded with a tube.



Quote:
Haven't had any trouble with the site yet, strange.

Ray.
????



The toroids hanging off the back are something I want to avoid !!!!!!!!!!
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Old 2nd February 2006, 12:06 PM   #512
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by 6h5c

Thanks guys. By the way, i'm not in the military
Just have no curls

Ray.
Heh, and to think I decided *not* to post a comment about military precision...!
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Old 2nd February 2006, 12:07 PM   #513
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I was thinking the same. hehe
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Old 2nd February 2006, 12:10 PM   #514
6h5c is offline 6h5c  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally posted by poynton
The toroids hanging off the back are something I want to avoid !!!!!!!!!!
Uuuuugly! Indeed. I'm going to try and keep everything under the hood.

Quote:
Originally posted by SimontY
Heh, and to think I decided *not* to post a comment about military precision...!
Quote:
Originally posted by rowemeister
I was thinking the same. hehe
I can imagine, since my shirt is also the right tint of green

Ray.
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Old 2nd February 2006, 12:15 PM   #515
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Admit it Ray you have gone AWOL and you dont want your identity revealed. lmao
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Old 2nd February 2006, 12:53 PM   #516
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by poynton
On this circuit, the main thing is to use "good quality" components after the dac, matched as close as possible.
So err, some kind of "military-spec" parts? You see "ex-military" stock on Ebay.

I guess if you're actually *in* the military you can just get stuff like 0.0001% resistors, right Ray?

Ok, I promise I won't say anything else now
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Old 2nd February 2006, 01:33 PM   #517
6h5c is offline 6h5c  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally posted by rowemeister
Admit it Ray you have gone AWOL and you dont want your identity revealed. lmao
SSSShhhh, next thing you know they'll come looking again for me...

Quote:
Originally posted by SimontY
So err, some kind of "military-spec" parts? You see "ex-military" stock on Ebay.
I guess if you're actually *in* the military you can just get stuff like 0.0001% resistors, right Ray? Ok, I promise I won't say anything else now
Well, there is mil-spec wire in there actually LOL
It's very nice silvered copper wire with teflon insulation. But I didn't have to rip it out of a Leopard tank, they sell it at AE-Europe.

Ray.
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Old 2nd February 2006, 01:41 PM   #518
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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hehe, nice
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Old 2nd February 2006, 09:31 PM   #519
adfinni is offline adfinni  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by SimontY

Damping the insides should help the sound, but the feet really ought to be replaced with hard cones. It's my experience that this provides a more lifelike sound than soft feet (more solid and tuneful bass especially).
Il look into getting some new feet asap, but do you have any recommendations for spikes before i do? 3 or 4 spikes ?
The sound deadening will be done last, after i have done all the circuit modifications that i have planned for the player.

Quote:
Originally posted by SimontY

These caps block DC from going to the amp, as such they are near the output sockets - C655, C657 (left channel) and C656, C658 (right channel). I wouldn't worry too much about the DC, but you should measure it - just stick multimeter probes into the socket and turn the player on. Tell us what you get and someone will comment. DC is almost certainly dealt with in your amp though, making the caps ENTIRELY superfluous. They ruin the sound, again it's the bass more than anything.
Il try and get these caps removed asap, but what cable do you recommend i use to bridge the gaps, and would my non-silver antex solder be satisfactory (i may try to get some old lead solder off ebay)

Quote:
Originally posted by SimontY


Audiocom Superclock2 for 70 is good value, as it used a proven design, uses nice parts, and it's ready made for you. I think if you don't want to spend too many hours poring over schematics and learning to build circuits just buy their parts because they seem nice and will certainly do the job.

Ok, IME, a clock upgrade like this takes the player from 5/10 to 6/10, then a psu takes it to 7.5/10 (only relatively speaking!). It is absolutely necessary to feed it good power, and I say 'dedicated' because it's known that the voltage rails in the CD63 are fully cr@p - this would explain my listening results.


Ok il probably go for the superclock 2, and audicom super-regs +5v, 12v, and -12v. Are these easier to fit into the player?
Also, how do i power the superclock2 by using the voltage rails in the CD63 itself , but ideally how can i power it using another PSU, and what do i need. I really don't want to spend a lot, and am not confident in making one unless im given guidance!!!

Thanks again

as
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Old 3rd February 2006, 02:07 AM   #520
navin is offline navin  India
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Quote:
Originally posted by 6h5c


This is the first attempt to get Thorstens Delta-Sigma circuit working and see what it does.

I have a HV tube PSU that I use for the supply to the circuit and used a small PCB tranny for the heater voltage. In the end I want to mount the tubes horizontally and fit everything in the player..
Now you are talking. A tube mod to the CD63 that fits in the player! It might be something a lot of us are interested in.
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