Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

[markk02474]

There's a lot going on in Ray's photo, starting from the bottom...

His former opamps! The black resistors look like Holco brand, fantastic for the price. There are some poly caps too - both are in the output filter. The green blobs and grey collars are the inductors and ferrites that can just be wire for now. He took out the power resistors and capacitors for the HDAM (between the cans).

The wires with tube insulators (probably Teflon tubing) are for his signal to bypass the HDAM and DC blocking caps (also removed) and go to where there is pretty much just an output impedance limiting resistor and RF (from the RCA socket) filtering cap. Without the DC blocking capacitors, the 10K resistor to ground after them isn't needed anymore, but really doesn't hurt to stay either. There are also two pairs of 100 ohm resistors R657-R660. Now without the muting, one of them on each channel can also be replaced with a wire jumper to better drive your preamp. In the parts sheet, it says to replace one with a 47 Ohm resistor, which is fine too.

If you want to use existing traces, jumper R619 and R620 locations that are now vacant.

[jksmurf]

Originally posted by SimontY
Hi, of course Cerafines are already there, I forgot! They are ok as they are. To really go up from there you could try Black Gate caps, but more benefit will come from putting nice caps in the locations where they are not nice as standard ie. around the DAC, decoder and servo. I have Black Gate Standard 330uF or 470uF in all these locations, and 1000uF next to the op-amps. As these are "luxury", not industrial parts you won't find them at Farnell.

Marcus,

I've been following your arrival (same CD67SE as you, just a 110v version grrr) and I'm very very happy that folks like you come along and ask all the questions about things that I'd also like to know. Like you I have no knowledge of anything electronics-wise, but I like DIY and fortunately my wife does know about this stuff. There's so much going on here at such speed and with so many different combos, that sometimes you get left floundering... (btw I'm getting a 240v CD67SE Transformer from Singapore where you're based).

Wife has soldered most everything on Ray's list, with just a few question marks I will post later. She says she would like to put it back together and try before we go any further (i.e. PFM Flea Clock, PSU, Vreg Boards (see below), MartinClarks Clock Hack).

SimontY's confirmation that you (we) can leave those 4 red 110uf/25v Cerafines between the OPAMPs (LM4562 already in) in place above is a godsend, I was muddling what to do with those ... they are smaller, but I understand that it's OK? esp. if you put VRegs "around the Opamps"?

I had no idea about what these folks were talking about when they said "move the VRegs closer to the Opamps" until a helpful fellow (Mags) on another forum pointed me in the right direction. I posted a pic of it earlier, but it got lost in the flurry of posts, so I'll post it again, hopefully we'll get a comment or 3. Please?

Ray,

As mentioned, I have got my Flea PCB with clock module. (I might get 2 more w/o clock later if Martin Clark does another run). Anyway my wife has soldered it all together (looks good) and it already looks the business.

I remember seeing 3x Fleas in your CD63? but the photos showed the fleas alone, not the connections and I was wondering if you could:
* 1st let me know the clock conection details (what to take out, extg clock + 2x caps?) just insert new clock leads in old clock spot? and
* 2nd where did you connect the other 2 fleas, exactly?

Thanks!

k.

[marcusdeming]

Originally posted by 6h5c




Hi Marcus,

The 'jumpers' are the thick white wires running under the HDAM cans. They run from the opamps' outputs directly to the RCA sockets, bypassing everything else in one run.

The varistor is still available here in Holland, which Farnell site do you use? Try a search for B72220S251K101. It clamps voltage spikes by the way.

Ray

I have gotten this 1004357, the farnell site i visited was the singapore one. Can i say that this varistor thing is more a safety feature.

Originally posted by markk02474
Marcus, you got the parts right in those pictures. The HDAM power supply (+12v and -12v times two channels) resistors are grouped together at top and the pair for each opamp below and split. The other picture shows the two pairs of electrolytics at the top. Each is a series pair used to create a non-polar capacitor out of two polar ones. Looking at the traces, you'll see only one jumper wire is needed per pair. I usually use resistor leads for jumpers as they are copper while capacitor and other leads are often plated steel.

There are traces where the HDAM can be bypassed. Its there for the cheaper model players and the HDAM is left unpopulated. If you bypass the HDAM, simply leave out the resistors that power it. If all still works then with your bypass, you want to take the connections from the HDAM's input and output resistors from the rest of the circuit. I think at least one is under the cover and so you can cut the trace instead. A little solder bridge can fix the trace if you err. On the HDAM output, it goes to the DC blocking electrolytic caps.

Hi Mark, if i remove all the 4 ecaps, 4 power supply resistors, R657/658 and add a wire from this 2 point to U210 and U214, like what Ray did, would i have effectively bypass the HDAM? In this case i do not need to jumper the ecaps and resistors that are remove right?

[marcusdeming]

Originally posted by jksmurf


Marcus,

I've been following your arrival (same CD67SE as you, just a 110v version grrr) and I'm very very happy that folks like you come along and ask all the questions about things that I'd also like to know. Like you I have no knowledge of anything electronics-wise, but I like DIY and fortunately my wife does know about this stuff. There's so much going on here at such speed and with so many different combos, that sometimes you get left floundering... (btw I'm getting a 240v CD67SE Transformer from Singapore where you're based).


k.

Hi jksmurf,

I did try to read but with the massive amount of terms and ideals and many parts that i do not know, i am stuck at many occasion, the guys here are really helpful, and i am somewat worried that i might irritate them with my loads of newbie questions.

Once again, I would like to thank all those who contributed in one way or another.

Regards,
Marcus

[marcusdeming]

power resistor and ecaps removed:





Some changes to the power supply caps, and also this 3 pinned thingy not sure of what its called:


the diode

[Fidelity Audio]

If anyone is feeling flush and wants to upgrade their mains with a nice product now is the time.

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Brent

[SimontY]

Hi Marcus,

Good work on the mods!

Now, I could be wrong, but.... D852, which you appear to have replaced with a schottky diode, was originally a zener diode. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong, but this was the diode that adjusted the ground at the -18v reg that powers the display, making the output -24v.

In mine the reg is changed to a 7812 and the diode is shorted. This makes the display voltage -12v and it's nice and dim.

Simon

[marcusdeming]

hi simon,

oh **** i looked at the mod list wrongly, i was a little skeptical too as i notice that that it defer from the rest of the diode.

I am about to power it up soon have just completed the by passing and all those stuff. What will happened, if its a wrong diode?

[SimontY]

Originally posted by marcusdeming
hi simon,

i followed the mod list, i was a little skeptical too as i notice that that it defer from the rest of the diode.

I am about to power it up soon have just completed the by passing and all those stuff. What will happened, if its a wrong diode?

Good question! Probably better not to power it up till someone can answer. I suspect all that will happen is the display will be a little dimmer (a good thing IMO).

Then again, if you got it from Ray's list, it's fine. The man knows!

Simon

[marcusdeming]

i look at the mod list wrongly, its should be change D851/854, i look at it as replacing D851-854...

Sweating now.. hope someone can help out asap..
btw is D852 and D853 of the same diode and value..?