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#5011 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
However, in the real world Cerafine sounds good, as do Black Gates. Nichicon might be ok, I used some MUSE once for something and it was fine. The Pana i don't know! Simon
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Faves: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way open baffles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL techniques etc. Meet: UK Northern Meet 2010 |
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#5012 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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alright might just give the cerafine a try.
Will start off with the ecaps at the power supply and hdam opamp section. The value should be the same as recommended in the mod list right. What is remark columm for..? Those +100n x7R stuff, what are they for? Do we need to include tat too..? or can we do without it? Apologise if my question sounds silly. have got no idea about electronics terms. |
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#5013 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Simon
__________________
Faves: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way open baffles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL techniques etc. Meet: UK Northern Meet 2010 |
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#5014 | |
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Electronics Addicted
diyAudio Member
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcusdeming
[B]hi ray, Thanks for the picture. i do not quite understand the remarks column what does it mean? is it soemthing thats required when we change the caps. Quote:
The remarks column gives some additional information about the specific line it is behind. The +100n PPS or X7R means I bypassed the electrolytic cap mentioned in that line with an additional film or ceramic cap. Like Simon mentioned, it extends the high frequency range over which the decoupling is effective. Because of parasitic inductance there is a limit to the maximum frequency at which electrolytics operate properly. That's simply caused by the way they are constructed. Some caps have a better high frequency response because they are made with this in mind, but in most cases putting a good quality film cap in parallel still improves things. It mainly reduces high-frequency noise that's radiated into the power-lines. Regards, Ray
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Gonna buy my little girl a pink soldering-iron
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#5015 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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hi simon and ray,
thanks for the reply, though i am still a little lost. Does it matters whether better caps like cerafine or BG are used in the power supply section. Does it impact the sound quality? If i'm going to try out an opamp like the ad826, would it be advisable for me to bypass the hdam? |
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#5016 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Have place an order thru farnell for the parts recommended in the mod list except for the WIMA caps replacement and Q801/802.
All the parts are the one stated in the list, Will be getting cerafine for the opamps section C611-c614, and bypassing the HDAM later on after the power supply cap change. have also ordered ad826 as recommended by a frd. Do let me know if i am on the right track, thanks... |
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#5017 | ||
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diyAudio Member
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Caps like Cerafine and BG will improve the sound compared to "basic" caps when used in the power supplies. The "decoupling" locations, such as right next to the op-amps are the most important place to put these luxury caps. The sound may become more open, full, fluid and relaxed. Quote:
Simon
__________________
Faves: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way open baffles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL techniques etc. Meet: UK Northern Meet 2010 |
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#5018 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Hi Simon,
Thanks. I have place the order and they should be arriving tomorrow. Will be changing the ecaps and diode, if time permits, i will try to get the Elna cerafine or BGs for the opamp section tomorrow. in fact my cdp came with the cerafine caps, just that the values are lower.110uf/25v ![]() I tried to remove the HDAM cover but it seems difficult to, did any of u have the same problem?? Refering to the photo below, this is a iec connector with a noise filter that i have soldered it on a couple of months back. Can i still add the varistor and the X and Y capacitor as shown by Ray in his previous post? If i could can someone gives me the parts number in farnell, the number on the mod list seems obselete(i am looking at the 2006 copy) and i do not know which one to chose from when i do a search in farnell web site.
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#5019 | |
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Electronics Addicted
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
You already have a mains filter fitted, so it's not much use to fit another one. You can place the varistor though, that shouldn't hurt. I don't know why some partnumbers are obsolete, they are all still available over here as far as I can tell. Regards, Ray
__________________
Gonna buy my little girl a pink soldering-iron
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#5020 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Yes, the HDAM covers are difficult to remove. You could just leave them on - you don't need to remove those to disable and bypass the HDAM modules. Just do it as Ray shows.
__________________
Faves: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way open baffles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL techniques etc. Meet: UK Northern Meet 2010 |
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