Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

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Phoenix CD53

Hi

The CD53 was on during the night.
After confirming it was working this morning, I decided to reinstall the analog psu, connect the outputs to my preamp and... UAU.... what improvement !!!!!!

The bass has gained edge detail and the highs lost it´s hardness.

The mods consisted in replacing C111 C112 C113 C114 C115 C116 by silver micas.

Note:
I also connected my star gnd to the mains earth.

I am very happy to have identified the problem... this makes me more confident and I gained a good knowledge about drivers and servos.

Life is difficult but that only makes it more beautyfull....:grouphug:

Ricardo
 
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Actual with new Q106 on a socket

The sound is so good I must share this image with everybody...

Next will be the Spower on dac analog. :scratch2:
 

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pzogal said:


Ricardo-> mine Q106 becomes hot too, I just noticed it yesterday. If I touch it with the finger it feels normal, then becomes hotter and hotter until it's too hot :) How does it look like in your CDP ?

As I said, no improvement in regards to tracking :(

Hi Pawel

I relate the tracking problems with IC Q106 itself.

Is it gets hot (too hot to touch), check the voltages on R149 R150.

If these go below +-10v, than the IC is bad.

Changing mine for a ON Semi did wonders...;)

I removed the stock IC, soldered a socket in place and put the new IC on the socket. If it gets hot again, it will be easier to replace... lol

I believe the reason it gets hot is because I have connection problems in the wire mesh connecting to the HF Amp psu.

Ricardo
 
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rowemeister said:
Good work on the servo, clocking the servo brings even bigger gains ;)

Hi Brent

I believe I must upgrade the analog dac reg with a spower before I think about reclocking.

I have been looking to your pictures and besides the data coax mod from mech pcb to HF amp / decoder I can see you are using a white mesh for the rest of the connections.

Is this mesh soldered ? (I can not see any socket :magnify:)

Is it a special kind of mesh ?

The CD53 is now playing wonderfully and I am afraid I will face more problems with the mesh during next mod.

Can you suggest a replacement ?

Regards

Ricardo
 
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rowemeister said:


They are from RS. They are a typical pcb connector ribbon, these are solid core too.
They are actually wider but they are easy to cut with a knife.

SEE HERE

Hi Brent

After reading a while, I know you soldered the ribbon.

From RS what should be the best choice ?
1- Halogen free ribbon
2- High Density ribbon
3- High Flex
4- Standard

Regards

Ricardo
 
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rowemeister said:
It is a bit pricey, I have thought of selling it but the postage is nearly as much as the ribbon.

I would cut the ribbon into two pieces (8pin and 7pin).

It would probs be £3.95 (inc vat) + P&P (£1.95 to aus)

Still not cheap but it is good stuff.

First I would use some normal multi strand wire for now and see how you get on.

Hi Brent

Would you consider sending one for me ?

Ricardo
 
Hi Brent & Ricardo,

I had no time for scope :( but I checked the pickup again, connected a lap psu, then did some forth and back travels with the pickup, added a drop of machine oil :)

Wobble didn't stop, but I noticed similar behaviour on my dvd player (wobble but not skipping). Then I replaced some caps in the psu, schottky diodes went in & decoupled servo & decoder caps with WIMAs. Finally put everything together and worked ! OK, I didn't check the worst CD I used for testing since my wife was fed up with the same song playing again :). Anyway we just listened to some good music...

no skipping so far. I will definitely go on with the mods. Q106 becomes a bit hot. I'll replace the drivers for sure , no big cost. I am thinking of pimping the HF amp in some way. Maybe metal film precision resistors ? Anyone tried this ? The input current through R101 is very low, maybe few uAmps, so it could be prone to distortions. I also measured the voltages on the HF path and on E of Q501 i got 0.9 instead of 1.1V does it mean anything ?

Ricardo: great modding, I am afraid I won't go that far, at least not yet ,hehehe... good to hear that the replacement helped!

Greetings,
Pawel
 
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pzogal said:
Then I replaced some caps in the psu, schottky diodes went in & decoupled servo & decoder caps with WIMAs. Finally put everything together and worked ! OK, I didn't check the worst CD I used for testing since my wife was fed up with the same song playing again :). Anyway we just listened to some good music...

no skipping so far. I will definitely go on with the mods. Q106 becomes a bit hot. I'll replace the drivers for sure , no big cost. I

Thank you Pawel

Upgrading caps used to decouple and smooth the +5v lines in the servo and drivers gave me a lot of detail and stopped some skipping problems.

Using dedicated PSU and sregs on the servo made a really big difference in terms of detail and bass power.

If Q106 gets hot, please verify the ribbon connecting main pcb with the one under the mech.

Keep on modding.... I did not realyse the benefits until I started building dedicated psu´s for the servo and analog output stage.

Regards

Ricardo
 
pzogal said:
I am thinking of pimping the HF amp in some way. Maybe metal film precision resistors ? Anyone tried this ?

Haha, someone here has tried almost everything! Brent for one did this with 0.1% tolerance resistors (Holco H1 was it?). I think he found improvements to fine detail, treble, and a sense of control. The kind of improvements you also get from improving the servo IIRC.


RCruz said:

I did not realyse the benefits until I started building dedicated psu´s for the servo and analog output stage.

Yeh, it's all about the power supplies!

Simon