simonY
hope you found a solution to the problem with the cdpayer?
All i can say is it does sound like a bad connection.
It did it before, then worked, for how long, then plays up again.
What cables or connections have you disconnected-reconnected.
What were you doing(changing-upgrading) before the problem reappeared?
Not much help, sorry
has anyone done anything more with passive or tube?
thinking of passive filter, tube or fet buffer?
allan
hope you found a solution to the problem with the cdpayer?
All i can say is it does sound like a bad connection.
It did it before, then worked, for how long, then plays up again.
What cables or connections have you disconnected-reconnected.
What were you doing(changing-upgrading) before the problem reappeared?
Not much help, sorry
has anyone done anything more with passive or tube?
thinking of passive filter, tube or fet buffer?
allan
awpagan said:
Still broken. It worked for a couple of CDs, and worked intermittently, and skipped a lot, as if the discs were scratched (they were fine). Then refused to work, and it's not worked since. It does look like a bad connection because this is exactly the same sort of failure as happened earlier (the last time I went inside), and I fixed that without knowing what I did. So there's probably a short or a dry joint, I just don't know where.
The last upgrade I did was to replace the phono sockets. This involves reinserting the PCB whilst the back panel is attached and causes things to get scraped when it's put in.
Simon,
Had same problem.
With the ribbon cable unplugged try using a pin, or the equivalent, to push the pins out so they make better contact with the cable. This will only be a short term cure if it works.
One way to check whether its the socket is to move the ribbon and see if the cd plays.
These connectors are crap and do do not like been unplugged too many times.
As I have mentioned before, I've now hard wired this connection using a D type plug on the main PCB so I can still uplug it and remove the board easily. I really didn't fancy the coax tweak.
I have in the past bought a cheap CD63 off eBay for spare parts. Given the cost of spares it makes sense even if you use only one or two parts, especially the IC's.
Hope this helps.
Gordon
Had same problem.
With the ribbon cable unplugged try using a pin, or the equivalent, to push the pins out so they make better contact with the cable. This will only be a short term cure if it works.
One way to check whether its the socket is to move the ribbon and see if the cd plays.
These connectors are crap and do do not like been unplugged too many times.
As I have mentioned before, I've now hard wired this connection using a D type plug on the main PCB so I can still uplug it and remove the board easily. I really didn't fancy the coax tweak.
I have in the past bought a cheap CD63 off eBay for spare parts. Given the cost of spares it makes sense even if you use only one or two parts, especially the IC's.
Hope this helps.
Gordon
SimontY said:
I don't understand your instructions
Hi Simon,
Socket / plug JM01 is the one with coloured wires.
One end is ground
The other is the sled drive signal around +-10v when the sled is moving.
Check the voltage at each end while the CD-p is in service mode 3.
Each time you 'reverse' the sled using the cue/review buttons, there should be a voltage present which reverses polarity with each press.
If there is a voltage and it does reverse, the fault is in the connector or motor. If not , the fault lies elsewhere.
Andy
Attachments
SimontY said:
generally if it is shorted it will or won't work
Dry joint works when hot and not cold or viseaversa
on the connector he mentions, push the internal metal contacts in
pushing the plug in and out one or more of the internal plugs may be sitting slightly up and not making contact.
allan
Oh my, lots of posts to respond to!
I see now, thanks. I have had continuity from all the points one end to the other, but voltage should be more meaningful.
Hi Gordon,
I still don't know that it's my connector ribbon that's had it, but I should be able to properly diagnose it now (this evening). A 'D' plug sounds like a very good one for the job - 15 pin VGA style?. I did think about 8 2-way screw terminals all in a line on veroboard. It's a big solution, but it'd work, and it's not hard to solder it.
Hard-wiring coax across is a stupid idea. It will just get ruined as soon as you need to remove the innards to work on it! (ok, in my hands it will)
Hi Andy,
I think I get it now. Are cue and review the scan/search buttons?
I'm not sure I can fiddle with these connectors much more before they break off, but if I'll see if I can get the pins sticking out better.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'm sure I'll have the player working again soon.
Sorry to waste space in this good thread with elementary fault-finding.
Simon
awpagan said:
I see now, thanks. I have had continuity from all the points one end to the other, but voltage should be more meaningful.
Biskit said:
Hi Gordon,
I still don't know that it's my connector ribbon that's had it, but I should be able to properly diagnose it now (this evening). A 'D' plug sounds like a very good one for the job - 15 pin VGA style?. I did think about 8 2-way screw terminals all in a line on veroboard. It's a big solution, but it'd work, and it's not hard to solder it.
Hard-wiring coax across is a stupid idea. It will just get ruined as soon as you need to remove the innards to work on it! (ok, in my hands it will)
poynton said:
Hi Andy,
I think I get it now. Are cue and review the scan/search buttons?
awpagan said:
I'm not sure I can fiddle with these connectors much more before they break off, but if I'll see if I can get the pins sticking out better.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'm sure I'll have the player working again soon.
Sorry to waste space in this good thread with elementary fault-finding.
Simon
I have this problem with both my players, after re-assemble the laser will not read disc. It is usually the connector from the main board to the rf pcb(J103) what I uaually do is to loosen the lock-latch a bit and slowly tilt the ribbon a little until it work. maybe it is a good idea to replace with coax cable.
LOL