Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 40 - diyAudio
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Old 22nd January 2006, 01:10 PM   #391
poynton is offline poynton  United Kingdom
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Hi.

OOPS!!

Thanks for the info. I couldn't see it either. I still think they can be tweaked!

Andy
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Old 22nd January 2006, 07:38 PM   #392
JZatopa is offline JZatopa  United States
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I posted the wrong address
http://diyparadise.com/cdptweak.htm

and has anyone tried this?

http://diyparadise.com/rm20dac.html
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Old 22nd January 2006, 09:51 PM   #393
JZatopa is offline JZatopa  United States
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I have just finished my first CD player mod and it sound much better. The highs and midrange sound much better. I also seem to be getting a much sharper center image.

I now want to go on to replace the opamps. It looks like this will cost me about $31 dollars for the browndog drop ins unless somone here can recomend a cheaper opamp. While I am waiting would it be worthwhile to use a resistor to run the stock opamps in class A?

I have decided that building clock is beyond my abilities and that buying one costs way to much. So instead I plan on doing the mods on http://www.acoustica.org.uk/t/63/63hacks.html but without the extra regulator work because I'm not sure I am ready for that yet.

While I was in the CD player I saw that the c803 and c804 are 220uf caps. In the pics of the better players these look like 470uf. I have some 470uf 50V laying around. Should a R&R them?

If there are any other simple R&R parts what are they?


R&R-remove and replace.
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Old 23rd January 2006, 08:04 AM   #394
6h5c is online now 6h5c  Netherlands
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Hi DJNUBZ,

Good to hear you like the first results of your mods. You have taken out the muting transistors and the output caps also, is that correct? Since you have a CD53, you don't have to bypass the HDAM circuit, so that will save you some work .

If you want to replace the opamps, I would recommend to put two IC sockets in there. That will make it easy to swap them. So you may start with a cheaper opamp now, and drop in something better in the future.
You can start with the OPA2134, AD826/827 or LT1361. But the AD8620 is very good. You can also get bare BrownDog adapters and source the opamps from Analog Devices' free sample program .
You can put the original 2114 in class-A, but I don't think that will gain much. Never tried it actually, always take it out straight away .

Why do you think you're not able to build a clock? You are soldering now, right??? All you need is a small piece of veroboard. The simplest clock would be the Tentlabs XO-module (see fuzzy picture). That's a complete oscillator in a can, all you need to add is a power-supply. Take a look on the Tentlabs Website, there's also a schematic for the PSU, and it's not too expensive. I started out with this, and it will give you far better results than the Acoustica clock hack (well, that's if you don't break anything of course ).

If you change other parts, like the electrolytics, it's not only important to change them to a higher value, but also to use a GOOD capacitor. It's better to have a good 470u in there than a bad 1000u. What brand are the caps you have?
You can swap the 220u to 470u/50V, but the best thing is to use a Panasonic FC, Rubycon ZL or another type that has low ESR. The 470u will make an improvement over 220u of course, but 1000u or 2200u will be even better, and you get the best results if you use a special low-ESR cap.

For other parts that are easy to replace, you can take a look at one of my mods list. The CD57 list is the most recent one I did. You can start with the power supply caps, and around the opamps. Do the the bigger ones first, and do the smaller parts later, like the 4,7R resistors. If you get the hang of it you can really dig in.


Regards,

Ray.
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Old 23rd January 2006, 09:12 AM   #395
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Ray your caps and resistors look very similar to mine

Silver mica caps and 0.1% tol resistors.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 23rd January 2006, 09:24 AM   #396
6h5c is online now 6h5c  Netherlands
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Yeah, you're right
This is my CD67SE by this way. You also used the Welwyn resistors?
In my CD57 I used 0,1% SMD's, works also very well, and MKP caps, just to see if there's a sonical difference. Still have to do a comparison between the two.

Ray.
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Old 23rd January 2006, 09:35 AM   #397
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Ray

Yes they are the Welwyn resistors

The SMD is neater.

It looks like you have used silver loaded solder too....or is it just the way the light has reflected on it?
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Old 23rd January 2006, 09:43 AM   #398
6h5c is online now 6h5c  Netherlands
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Hi Brent,

No, it's not silver, but i'm flattered
Must be my soldering skills....

No, the secret is I always clean-up the flux residue with a cotton-tip and some IPA (iso-propyl-alcohol).
Looks nice, eh?

Have you already listened to the OPA124's?

Regards,

Ray.
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Old 23rd January 2006, 09:56 AM   #399
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Ray

I always clean mine too. I dont know about you but here in the UK the solder is now lead free and it's crap. Its 60/40 Tin Copper.

The solder is much duller to look at and it annoys me

It cools and sets much quicker than the lead.

I have some OPA127 but used the OPA627 _ OPA132 set up and have not listened to them.

Also C605 etc with the inductor, I remember you said you shortened out the inductor and changed the cap for nearly half value, is this correct?
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Old 23rd January 2006, 10:03 AM   #400
poynton is offline poynton  United Kingdom
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Hi.

If you want old lead solder, you should visityour local car-boot sales or auction rooms. I picked up 2 large new reels of multicore for 1.50 each about 3 months ago.

Andy
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