Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 399 - diyAudio
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Old 10th October 2006, 08:07 AM   #3981
Zombie is offline Zombie  Sweden
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Brent, not just a little more detail, didn't you notice the better room feeling and increased "darkness"?
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Old 10th October 2006, 08:23 AM   #3982
Zombie is offline Zombie  Sweden
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Btw, IMHO the www.acoustica.org.uk clock mod is sufficient.
I later added a LCclock with separate PSU...not worth the . Maybe the LC units have improved since then...?
With all the mods I made, the CD63 got close to a stock Quad 67 or 99CDP, but with an "unbalanced" and "wild" sound, definitely not bad.
I prefer the Quad, though, although I had fun modding my CD63s, learnt a lot from it and all you nice guys here and at audio asylum.

My top 5:
1. Fill it with bitumen and tack-it
2. Remove/short the output caps
3. the 10k/27k (and better 120p caps) match
4. clean up the 5V rail
5. acoustica clock mod
(in order of difficulty)

Maybe using coax for the digital signal transfer to the DAC in the CD67 also is worthwhile, on the CD63 it doesn't travel around the globe to pick up noise.
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Old 10th October 2006, 08:45 AM   #3983
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zombie
Brent, not just a little more detail, didn't you notice the better room feeling and increased "darkness"?
I certainly did, this came from changing my mains extension for a Russ Andrews one and good cable to it.

Brent
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Old 10th October 2006, 09:43 AM   #3984
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Quote:
Originally posted by jksmurf
Thanks Simon, (please pardon my ignorance) presumably "decoupling is what was meant by "Using a set of 4# 3.6kOhm resistors....
Hi,

Actually what I meant was power supply decoupling. That is to solder a capacitor from each supply pin to ground (close to the circuit you're feeding). This removes noise. This can be considered optional if you have really good caps close by on the circuit (according to Rowemeister).

Quote:

mods generally. Thanks you very much for your list. Now I just have to look at rays service manual and point out where everything goes....

There seems to be a plethora of clocks... Kwak 7 (DIY), Tent XO, LCClock XO, Superclock ... What's the easiest install / good value assuming my wife can make the Kwak?
You're quite welcome. As I've personally only tried one add-on clock I can't comment on how good each one is. You'll need to do some searching around for that. Some people have compared several.

Quote:

Mine's a 67SE, presumably all 10 still apply?
Nope, one of them doesn't. The clock divider circuit to feed the servo chip is not needed in the CD67. Because the CD67 has fewer parts, when you reclock the DAC you also reclock the servo automatically. So you should really feel the benefits of a good clock instantly (space, texture, timing, bass, quality top end etc etc.)


Quote:
Originally posted by Robfow
Hi Guys, I will have some spare time in the next couple of weeks. I am thinking of finally replacing the opamps in my CD63. I have read through the pages here but am still a little lost. I might have missed out some information somewhere. I have some OPA124 to use also, I've read that this can be used after the DAC?

a) If I were to use opa627, I need 2 of these to replace each 2114?

b) If I use the LM4562 then it is just a direct replacement for the 2114?

Thank you in advance
Hi,

To use OPA627 you need two chips as they only come as single op-amps. You also need an adaptor board. Search for Brown Dog.

LM4562 drops straight in and is excellent.


Quote:
Originally posted by Zombie
Just can't emphasise enough that perfect matching of the 10k and 27k resistors afte the DAC is necessary to reap full benefits of what is done in the analogue circuit. What's even better, it might be for free!

Cheap alternative: locate other 10/27k resistors on the board (headphone amp), desolder, match within 0.1% (or better) and solder back those that didn't match in the other locations.

Expensive alternative: buy a lot of 1% 10k/27k resistors, or even better, match them in the shop, or buy the right amount of resistors with 0.1% tolerance. The better the match, the better the result!

After you've matched, THEN you start can talking opamps, caps, shottkys, clock mods, separate regulators, etc etc
(IMHO better opamps just let you hear all the crap that comes out of the DAC much better)
To be honest, as much as I don't doubt what you're saying, it just doesn't reflect my own experience of changing these resistors. I did it some time ago, using 1% metal films matched to 0.1% with a DMM, and the sound actually got worse. It became overly dry and bland. I blame it on the metal film resistors, but the matching can't be all that important for sonics if it gets worse. Maybe my system and player at the time were not good enough to reflect the superior sound. I'm open to suggestions.

I'm getting a discrete output sorted soon anyway. Having heard Brent's player back to back with mine I know that would be a smart move! (also needs more psu work of course, which I'm currently working on...)

Regards
Simon
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Old 10th October 2006, 06:57 PM   #3985
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Hi guys,
for the CD53 onwer I am, what is to be done with the R619 R620 ( Factory bypass of the HDAM ), I read 10 ohms on my meters ( no K or anything, just 10 ).
I've all the resistors of Ray's list, which seems to be 10K or 27K and 10.
Guys with le LM4562, what have you done about decoupling? Seems avr300 nothing (but cap on the AD8620), Symonty 2 caps per opamps? Whatever, I can already fit them on the board
What is to be used for linking the new gold RCA and the PCB, any big copper cable as main power wire?

Thanks, soon the Ray's enhanced PCB is done, I'll show you very soon
Thanks to all!!
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Old 10th October 2006, 07:25 PM   #3986
disco is offline disco  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zombie
Btw, IMHO the www.acoustica.org.uk clock mod is sufficient.
I later added a LCclock with separate PSU...not worth the . ....
A new clock with exclusive PSU is too expensive for the upgrade, fully agree with that. A much better bang for the buck is puttin in new decent caps. If you haven't bought caps, try those Panasonic audiograde (blue jackets), very nice.
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Old 10th October 2006, 08:49 PM   #3987
avr300 is offline avr300  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally posted by Malefoda
Guys with le LM4562, what have you done about decoupling? Seems avr300 nothing (but cap on the AD8620), Symonty 2 caps per opamps?
I haven't done anything; I'm just enjoying them "out of the box".
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Old 10th October 2006, 10:12 PM   #3988
jksmurf is offline jksmurf  Hong Kong
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Quote:
Originally posted by disco A new clock with exclusive PSU is too expensive for the upgrade, fully agree with that.
Do I understand it correctly that the FLEA with e.g. the TENT XO Oscillator on board is a considerably cheaper clock replacement than a commercial clock (but perhaps not a Kwak Clock)? So then the cost is reduced except of course for the seperate PSU?

k.
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Old 10th October 2006, 10:30 PM   #3989
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by Malefoda
what have you done about decoupling? Seems avr300 nothing (but cap on the AD8620), Symonty 2 caps per opamps?
Hi, I have left the 2 x 33uF/50v Pana FC in place under the op-amp sockets. I don't intend to experiment further in this area.

Here's a sneaky peek at what I'm doing for my cd player now...

The first of a potential gaggle of transformers. Each winding will feed a bridge made with schottky diodes, then a 1000uF Nichicon Muse cap for smoothing. The +21 volts will then go via an umbelical cord to the player, where it will meet a further 1000uF, an audiocom super regulator, then a quality cap and feed the clock and servo clock divider. There's a little mains filtering there by the power inlet.

Next could be a transformer for the digital parts of the DAC and decoder... I'm quite excited about this box as I can put all sorts of stuff inside that won't fit under the hood of the cd63
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Old 11th October 2006, 07:42 AM   #3990
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Quote:
Originally posted by SimontY


Hi, I have left the 2 x 33uF/50v Pana FC in place under the op-amp sockets. I don't intend to experiment further in this area.

Here's a sneaky peek at what I'm doing for my cd player now...

The first of a potential gaggle of transformers. Each winding will feed a bridge made with schottky diodes, then a 1000uF Nichicon Muse cap for smoothing. The +21 volts will then go via an umbelical cord to the player, where it will meet a further 1000uF, an audiocom super regulator, then a quality cap and feed the clock and servo clock divider. There's a little mains filtering there by the power inlet.

Next could be a transformer for the digital parts of the DAC and decoder... I'm quite excited about this box as I can put all sorts of stuff inside that won't fit under the hood of the cd63
I look forward to the end result

Brent
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