Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

[disco]

Originally posted by avr300
As usual I did more than one mod at the same time

As I was measuring the opamp supply I did get a lot of 16M in on my scope. Therefore I mounted coax lines from my Tent to the board and places my divider in a nice shielded/grounded round tin box.

I also got a lot of noise on the 12V, residue from the logic in the machine.

So I did tried beefing up / cleaning up the opamp PSU. I injected 2 * 15V AC, .5A into on the original 12V supply (after cutting the 2 lines to the onboard tranny). It was already equipped with schottky's and FC's.

I must admit, it now plays more fluid, everything flows, it plays the bass like real deep and rock solid. Whether that's due to the shielded clock or the better opamp psu - or both?

Yeah, familiar with that: once the player shows it's inside the iron glows for hours

Brent reported success with new PSUs long ago, of course. Indeed bass gets more tight, less grain etc.

I did experiment with shielding (on the original XO) and could hear some improvement to detail, although faint.

What's you PSU setup right now? I had good results with a double L filter (common mode rejection) and no more than 1.000uF caps. So, a C-LL-C setup.

Regards, Jaap

[avr300]

I have 1000u before the regs and 470u after - and 220u locally at the opamps.

[SimontY]

Hi folks, good to see people taking their players forward in various ways...

I felt due to how good my cdp is now attention was needed elsewhere, particularly in replacing my Chord Silver Siren i/c (CD>pre-amp). I never really liked this silver plated i/c - sounded false and bright and confused.

So I made one with Vampire OFC copper phonos (with direct gold plate)(£10 each ) and 0.71mm DCT* (please, no commments on audibility!) enamelled copper. The conductors are wrapped in cotton and the solder was Chimera Labs (with copper content).

The sound, so far, is superb! I don't know if it's getting rid of the teflon insulation, removing the silver from the wire, the good plugs, solder or geometry but it's good. A layer of white sheen has gone and the music is bold and natural. One step closer to live. It's "burning in" now of course

Simon

*Deep Cyrogenically Treated

[Malefoda]

Is that ok to fit on the AD8620?
http://fr.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSear...SKU=567450&N=0

[disco]

Originally posted by disco
Yeah, familiar with that: once the player shows it's inside the iron glows for hours

Brent reported success with new PSUs long ago, of course. Indeed bass gets more tight, less grain etc.

I did experiment with shielding (on the original XO) and could hear some improvement to detail, although faint.

What's you PSU setup right now? I had good results with a double L filter (common mode rejection) and no more than 1.000uF caps. So, a C-LL-C setup.

Regards, Jaap

Originally posted by avr300
I have 1000u before the regs and 470u after - and 220u locally at the opamps.

May I suggest an experiment?

Place 1.000uF right after the Schottky's. Take for both 12V rails two low resistance 20-40mH inductors (one in the rail and one in the ground), suited for at least 150mA. Again 1.000uF (for each rail). Take away the 470uF after the regulators and experiment with the value of the bypass caps. Panasonics are OK, Rubycon too.
Experiment with a PPS bypass on the bypass caps (0.1 to 3uF).
Jaap

[disco]

Originally posted by SimontY
Hi folks, good to see people taking their players forward in various ways...

I felt due to how good my cdp is now attention was needed elsewhere, particularly in replacing my Chord Silver Siren i/c (CD>pre-amp). I never really liked this silver plated i/c - sounded false and bright and confused.

So I made one with Vampire OFC copper phonos (with direct gold plate)(£10 each ) and 0.71mm DCT* (please, no commments on audibility!) enamelled copper. The conductors are wrapped in cotton and the solder was Chimera Labs (with copper content).

The sound, so far, is superb! I don't know if it's getting rid of the teflon insulation, removing the silver from the wire, the good plugs, solder or geometry but it's good. A layer of white sheen has gone and the music is bold and natural. One step closer to live. It's "burning in" now of course

Simon

*Deep Cyrogenically Treated

Howdy Simon,

Hope I don't sound like an old school professor (I did a lot of reading on the subject of audio electronics), ahum.
Electrons travel most at the outside of a conductor, known as the skin effect. Each layer to cross (oxide, other conductors, foreign metals) interacts on their relative speed and introduces unwanted effects. Capacitance from isolation has a bad influance too. Optimal results are obtained from very thin solid conductors, isolated with a low capacitive layer like teflon, silk, cotton, paper etc.
Personally I don't use isolation unless necessary. Flattened 0.25mm silver in teflon tube is my favourite as the tubing is quite strong.

Regards, Jaap

[avr300]

Originally posted by disco





May I suggest an experiment?

Place 1.000uF right after the Schottky's. Take for both 12V rails two low resistance 20-40mH inductors (one in the rail and one in the ground), suited for at least 150mA. Again 1.000uF (for each rail). Take away the 470uF after the regulators and experiment with the value of the bypass caps. Panasonics are OK, Rubycon too.
Experiment with a PPS bypass on the bypass caps (0.1 to 3uF).
Jaap

You certainly may. I guess you mean uH, not mH - am I right?

You don't wan't caps after the reg? Only local bypass? I have 10u FC I can place instead of the 470u just for stability.

[disco]

Originally posted by avr300
You certainly may. I guess you mean uH, not mH - am I right?

You don't wan't caps after the reg? Only local bypass? I have 10u FC I can place instead of the 470u just for stability.

I really mean MILLI (1/1000) Henry. The purpose is to filter the ripple and mains pollution. You'll find them in old computer PSU's, mostly Murata dual coils with iron center. If you order new they are less than 1 euro each.

Be aware ultra low ESR brings instability for most three legs. For fast transcient response you might try bypassing the reg with solid Tantalum (20-30uF) but some reported extra noise... Have a try.

[SimontY]

Originally posted by disco


Howdy Simon,

Hope I don't sound like an old school professor (I did a lot of reading on the subject of audio electronics), ahum.

Hi Jaap!

I can believe it, lol. Well what you say seems to correlate with this experience I've had. But I did try thin solid silver once and it sounded very bright and harsh and thin... I'll try again one day.

Simon

[disco]

Originally posted by SimontY
Hi Jaap!

I can believe it, lol. Well what you say seems to correlate with this experience I've had. But I did try thin solid silver once and it sounded very bright and harsh and thin... I'll try again one day.

Simon

Hi Simon,

From your reports I know you as an experienced audio enthusiast. Still I'd like to add one remark, you'll probably be familiar with.
The cable itself does not make music, of course. But: the effect of capacitance may vary from slight high roll off to subjective low emphasis. If one is 'in need' of loud lows, one might favor the 'sound' of the lesser cable.

Jaap