Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

[Fidelity Audio]

Originally posted by imperfectcircle


I have a spare tranny from a cd63se would this be an upgrade over the one in my cd53??

The fuses are replacement stock size 1.6amp 125v. The tranny runs hot but not so hot I can touch it or anything like that. The player sounds awesome so u doubt anything severe is wrong, it could just be the hot weather weve been having its been in the mid 90's all week, even my Exposure XV integrated which is a very cool running class B design has been getting pretty hot.

Drop that 63SE tranny in. The SE tranny was upgraded to a larger Va and used oxygen copper windings. The tx is an important upgrade (just look at the KI).

Brent

[disco]

Originally posted by imperfectcircle
Ive been thinking of an outboard supply for the analogue stage. Is there big gains to be had with this mod? Does running the opamps at 15v offer a performance advantaGEover 12V? About what size transformer would I want, would a small 20va be sufficeint?
thanks
Frank

Frank,
If you feel going outboard is advantageous, go ahead. It can be fitted inside as demonstrated here a few times. The opamp specs dictate supply limits. To be on the safe side (you might want to exchange opamps) I'd stick to +/-12V.
15-0-15@500mA makes 15VA and already is an overkill

Originally posted by imperfectcircle
dual power supply

What do you think of something like this for the opamp supply?? he sells the pcbs for about $35. It looks liek a pretty nice design with jung super regs?? Id prefer to use a proven design and buy the pcb then try and design my own from scratch. Any other pcbs or kits for a dual regulated supply?

Well, I don't own stocks of Audicom but one +12 and one -12V superreg is less expensive than this $35 board only.

The snubbing technique interacts on the transformer properties to cancel ringing. I don't get it how one could implement this without knowing the exact properties as they vary widely.

It seems the Swedish board does not support negative rails?
That's what I think of it
Regards, Jaap

[disco]

Originally posted by Malefoda
Hi fellows,

here is what I get from some gentle workmates...

Got also more AD8620 ( friends want some ) and a ferrite for flat cables ( usefull for the player ? ).
I wanna know where to use the dampen material, first to load the mecanism ? And then the bottom of the case ?
Also I am now quite scared if I do the Ray's mods list my tranny will suffer... I own a simple CD53... is it dangerous ?

This black stuf, is it heavy? The idea behind damping the case is to add mass to lower its resonant frequency. Screwing in a (wooden) brace from side to side would probably do more for the thin case. Or a giant size camembert... you could fine tune it by nibbling it somewhat

The higher load presented by the bigger caps won't harm the tranny. BUT. Heating electronics over 50 degrees Celsius is disadvantageous for its trouble free operation and parts wear out faster. Your CDP will probably comfy duck this temp but it's better to be on the safe side.

[Malefoda]

This material is quite heavy (not as gold...), and it is used on some expensive machines in order to avoid vibrations and noise... my workmates stick it in the inner side of the hoods.
Machines such as this one :
http://www.datacard.com/products/pro...778245YuR3ckg6
I red in french forums that the best is the bitumen pads from under the classic bathes, as the sounds like bells if not fitted under and you can have cheap prices for some at your local dealer
I've planned to tight the case around the tranny as the SE, and maybe as you said screw a heavy iron or steel plate under. I'll manage some holes on the back panel for air cooling, something like the 67 series.

[Fidelity Audio]

That vibration material looks identical to the stuff I use.

Oak is good for resonance

Brent

[Malefoda]

My furniture is oak colored, is it enough ?

[disco]

Originally posted by Malefoda
This material is quite heavy (not as gold...), and it is used on some expensive machines in order to avoid vibrations and noise... my workmates stick it in the inner side of the hoods.

I red in french forums that the best is the bitumen pads from under the classic bathes, as the sounds like bells if not fitted under and you can have cheap prices for some at your local dealer
I've planned to tight the case around the tranny as the SE, and maybe as you said screw a heavy iron or steel plate under. I'll manage some holes on the back panel for air cooling, something like the 67 series.

It's self adhesive, that makes it easy to apply to odd places like corners or bent surfaces (underneath the transport).

If you're a skilled mechanic (I'm not unfortunately) you could think of a new hood for the CDP. One that features a chimney to get rid of heat the natural way. Would be original.

[Fidelity Audio]

Originally posted by Malefoda
My furniture is oak colored, is it enough ?

LOL yeah

Also use an airdryer to soften and bend the black stuff

Brent

[imperfectcircle]

Well, I don't own stocks of Audicom but one +12 and one -12V superreg is less expensive than this $35 board only.

Audiocom "superregs" are $75 a piece here in the US, and audiocom wont sell the ebay regs to the US I asked already

I can get these "discrete regulators" from Burson audio for about $18 each.
burson regulator
Or there complete power supply for about $85
buron ps-1

And theres a bunch of others Ive seen online at various DIY sites.
AudioDIYlab
shunt regulator

[imperfectcircle]

Drop that 63SE tranny in. The SE tranny was upgraded to a larger Va and used oxygen copper windings.

It looks identical. Ru sure its a diffsrant tranny?