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Old 15th July 2006, 09:45 PM   #3431
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Quote:
Originally posted by imperfectcircle
Now im even more confused, on one side of r127 I get -10 but on the other side i get +10?? How is that posible for a resistor to change the voltage from + to _??
It's probably fried mate. Replace it.
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Old 15th July 2006, 10:15 PM   #3432
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Ok r127 was bad and reading 550ohms instead of 4.7, so i swaped it with a new 4.7ohm resistor and the laser is no longer going crazy. But im still only gettiing around 6.7v instead of 10v at r127? And now the disk just spinns real fast?? Any ideas??
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Old 15th July 2006, 10:27 PM   #3433
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Quote:
Originally posted by imperfectcircle
Ok r127 was bad and reading 550ohms instead of 4.7, so i swaped it with a new 4.7ohm resistor and the laser is no longer going crazy. But im still only gettiing around 6.7v instead of 10v at r127? And now the disk just spinns real fast?? Any ideas??
Has your 10V rail the correct voltage?
If so, something inside the Q105 circuit is drawing too much current. Could be a capacitor gone bad because of the short.

If your 10V rail is low, there is another problem elsewhere.
Check all caps hanging on the 10V rail, including the big reservoirs.
Check for uncommon heat in ICs and 0.25W resistors.
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Old 15th July 2006, 10:30 PM   #3434
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Ok replaced the caps and resistors around q105 and I know have correct +-10v. But there is still a problem, the disk tray shoots out and will not go back in and the disk motor just spins. Iwhatr does the -18 regulator control? because its voltages dont seem correct either. I get something like -6v and -24v on the input and out put. very strange stuff ehre. Any one here in NY that can take a look at it???r
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Old 16th July 2006, 12:19 AM   #3435
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I FIXED IT!!! WOOOHOOO!! Shoot now I hope i dont win that one im bidding on ebay!

This is the first time ive been able to troubleshoot and actually fix something using the schematic. I tracked it down to two bad feed resistors they were reading 500m ohms or something crazy like that. i replaced them and its working fine now!!! Words cant describbe how happy I am right now, what a good fweeling it is to fix something yourself!!

Thanks to everyone who helped me!!
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Old 16th July 2006, 09:43 AM   #3436
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Quote:
Originally posted by imperfectcircle
I FIXED IT!!! WOOOHOOO!! ...
Words cant describe how happy I am right now, what a good feeling it is to fix something yourself!!
Yep, and you learn a lot from it too
Regards, Jaap
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Old 16th July 2006, 06:59 PM   #3437
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Yup I definitly learned a thing or two First lesson dont give up so fast when your cd player dies

I just installed the regulator board for the dac/decoder and the player is sounding real nice. One thing I notice about this player is that it had plenty of detail but is still smooth sounding it does lack a bit in the speed and timing department though, maybe when i add an upgraded clock it will take care of this?
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Old 16th July 2006, 07:27 PM   #3438
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Quote:
Originally posted by imperfectcircle
...
I just installed the regulator board for the dac/decoder and the player is sounding real nice. One thing I notice about this player is that it had plenty of detail but is still smooth sounding it does lack a bit in the speed and timing department though, maybe when i add an upgraded clock it will take care of this?

PREVIOUS POST:
Power Supply:
-c803/804 2200/35 Pana FC+.1uf film
-c806/806 1500/16 Pana FC+.1uf
-c813 4700/16 FC+1uf
-c814 3300/16v FC+.1uf
-c815 4700/6.3 FC+.1uf
-D801-804 11dq10 Schottky
-D811-814 11dq10 Schottky
-Choke + .47uf X2 cap on AC input
-Chokes+feritte beads on all power feed resistors

Analogue Stage:
-Opamp AD827 + 4x1000uf FC+.1uf wima
-all caps in filter stage are 1% polystyrene
-all resistors are .1% Dale RN55
-removed muting transistors
-removed output caps

Digital section:
-"Clock Hack"
-.1uf smd XR7 caps on power pins of Dac/Decoder
all decoupling caps replaced with Rubycon ZL/ZA+.1uf smd XR7

Mechanical:
-damped transport and chassis with bitumen
-bottom plate sandwhich of two sheets of aluminum plate(1/8in) with foam damping sheet in between
-adjustable cone feet
A 'faster' reproduction could be obtained from the outputstage (opamps). Did you try a dedicated psu for +/-12V? We're talking tens of mA's so no need for brute force electrolytics here. Put the supply straight at the opamp pins, decoupled with 100 to 220uF quality caps, or bypassed lesser quality.

A superclock with its own psu will bring up the best from this player. You'll love it!

Further mods can be a starground and shielding of the RF lines. The effect will be somewhat less obvious: blackness of background, tranquillity of reproduction and more subtile highs. Very worthwile but it needs some skill to implement.
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Old 16th July 2006, 09:32 PM   #3439
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So you think maybe the 1000uf/16v caps for the opamps are slowing down the sound? Maybe ill go back to the 100uf -220uf caps. Ill have to order some I dont have any of that size left, maybe ill got with some blackgates there
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Old 16th July 2006, 09:34 PM   #3440
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Ive also notices the power tranny runs very hot, i dont know if it did before the mods or not?? is it normal?
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