Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

[disco]

Originally posted by avr300
...
Is he ref'ing C815? Right now I'm using 100u FC here, down from 3900u FC. Needs more time to tell.

AVR,

Power supplies make great mods for analog and digital consumers.
I had good results designing PSUs with low capacitance to maintain both minimal load currents and fast recovery. Take only the best available and try to keep internal resistance minimal. Short connections are beneficial but sometimes unpractical. For this reason and for seperating different consumers you need decoupling caps. Start with a low value (10uF) as currents might be modest and increase to a point there's no more audible gain. Best results are obtained when you use decoupling caps in ratio to the current. To find the optimum one has to measure every individual consumer current for a PSU

Regards, Jaap

[imperfectcircle]

If anyone has a spare main board or whole cd53/63 they want to sell let me know.

and as bad news calls bad news, no more good deal from Audiocom on eBay, Superclock II is gone... and its price also...

I beleive Audiocom is just on holiday, they will be back to ebay in a few weeks. But I also found out they dont ship to the US because of conflicts wqith thier dealers here in the states So no good deals for me. That stinks I was going to buy a bunch of the super regulators at the ebay price. Im going to look into those Burson Audio guys they have discrete super regs for around $18USD each on ebay, Ill give them a try when i get another cd63 to mod.

You could also try one of those $30 clocks from these guys, i want to try one and see how it is, but I cant now untiol I get a new cd53.
inexpensive clock upgrade

[imperfectcircle]

Just wanted to add that before my player died I got to listen to a few cd's and I must say it was sounding really amazing and wasnt even broken in yet. Heres a list of what I had done
Power Supply:
-c803/804 2200/35 Pana FC+.1uf film
-c806/806 1500/16 Pana FC+.1uf
-c813 4700/16 FC+1uf
-c814 3300/16v FC+.1uf
-c815 4700/6.3 FC+.1uf
-D801-804 11dq10 Schottky
-D811-814 11dq10 Schottky
-Choke + .47uf X2 cap on AC input
-Chokes+feritte beads on all power feed resistors


Analogue Stage:
-Opamp AD827 + 4x1000uf FC+.1uf wima
-all caps in filter stage are 1% polystyrene
-all resistors are .1% Dale RN55
-removed muting transistors
-removed output caps

Digital section:
-"Clock Hack"
-.1uf smd XR7 caps on power pins of Dac/Decoder
all decoupling caps replaced with Rubycon ZL/ZA+.1uf smd XR7

Mechanical:
-damped transport and chassis with bitumen
-bottom plate sandwhich of two sheets of aluminum plate(1/8in) with foam damping sheet in between
-adjustable cone feet

So I guess Im going to have to pull all the parts and start over when I get a new cd63. I cant wait to hear what it sounds like with a good clock, the regulator mod and some super regulators for the opamps!!! Hopefully my next attemp will work out better than this one! than you guys for all the help you have given me.

[disco]

Originally posted by imperfectcircle
... aparently a peice of a lead that i cut stuck to the botom of the board and when i moved the player it short something out, first the laser was buzzing and hopping around like crazy and said error 12 then it just deid and keeps blowing fuese

Just two thoughts ....

You've put beads on the 4.7 ohm / 0.25W resistors. Make shure they are isolated from the ground plane.

If not causing the trouble, next:

Remove the 4.7/0.25 resistors one by one to isolate the short. Go from there for repairs.

Jaap

[avr300]

Originally posted by rowemeister


The CD63 also has a similar error on the 5v rail where pin 15 is direct from 7805 and not through the resistor. Something to change when fitting regs.

The blue link shows where it actually goes and not how the diagram shows

I cut the track and link out

Brent

It's even worse. On the 63 the schematics and the actually layout round the decoder is a mess. The scematics is correct according to the datasheets. Pin14 CROUT is connected via i 1M resistor to Pin13 - like they had planned a local resonator for the decoder. My silkscreen says RD14 or C521 - and there is a ceramic cap in this place.

U192 is factory replaced with a res. 390R

It's the same my CD53 and in my 63SE.

I'll lift the 1M and RD14/C521 and connect my Flea to this point.

Am I overlooking something here (just before I'll start soldering).

[avr300]

Well, without the 1M between pin 13 and 14 and the C523 from pin 14 to gnd, it won't spin. So there IS an incorrect between the schematics and the "real world" - because the schematics won't run!

So, is the decoder sensetive to jitter and do the DAC clk out introduce jitter - in other words, is it worth getting the direct clock from my Flea to drive the decoder or should one stick with the factory solution.

[avr300]

The board layout in the manual corresponds to the schematics, pin 14 is NC - but not to the board in my hand.

[disco]

Originally posted by avr300
It's even worse. On the 63 the schematics and the actually layout round the decoder is a mess. The scematics is correct according to the datasheets. Pin14 CROUT is connected via i 1M resistor to Pin13 - like they had planned a local resonator for the decoder. My silkscreen says RD14 or C521 - and there is a ceramic cap in this place.

U192 is factory replaced with a res. 390R

It's the same my CD53 and in my 63SE.

I'll lift the 1M and RD14/C521 and connect my Flea to this point.

Am I overlooking something here (just before I'll start soldering).

Originally posted by avr300
Well, without the 1M between pin 13 and 14 and the C523 from pin 14 to gnd, it won't spin. So there IS an incorrect between the schematics and the "real world" - because the schematics won't run!

So, is the decoder sensetive to jitter and do the DAC clk out introduce jitter - in other words, is it worth getting the direct clock from my Flea to drive the decoder or should one stick with the factory solution.

Originally posted by avr300
The board layout in the manual corresponds to the schematics, pin 14 is NC - but not to the board in my hand.

In figure 26 (page 32) there are three oscillator circuits. It seems Marantz cut the costs of the extra parts by using the main clock. I noticed there exist several versions of the SAA7345. It might explain the 'freewheeling' RD14/C521 at the DAC for freedom of choice, possibly to correct a problem regarding input capacitance. See page 28 of SAA7345 datasheet for details on CRin/CRout.
Jaap

[avr300]

Yes, have seen it, but I just don't get why it won't run without the components leading to pin14 which is output

1M + C523 to gnd - then it's happy. Not else.

Well never mind.

[imperfectcircle]

emove the 4.7/0.25 resistors one by one to isolate the short. Go from there for repairs.

Thanks Disco for the tip. Im going to start with the servo section since thats where the short happened. Im just hoping it something simple. I already treid replacing the 3 opamps and servo chip from an extra board I had, and it does the same thing. So I guess Ill have to start removing the resistors one a t a time to find where the problem is.

Before it started blowing fuses i got erro message 12 which is a sled error any ideas what would cause this?? I treid a differant transport and got the same result.
thanks
Frank