Installed the Lm4562 and done the HDAM bypass. Yeah okay it sounds 'OK' but nothing.........seriously, sounds like a new, much better player. I could quite happily live it as it is, but thats boring isnt it.
Ive got the parts to make the Flea Clock, hopefully this will bring more improvement.
Ive got the parts to make the Flea Clock, hopefully this will bring more improvement.
hi, am i correct in asuming this is the correct procedure and, resistor numbers for the Marantz cd 67se model to bypass the HDAM? also, i have opa2604/opa2134/lt1364/lm6172/ and ad826 op amps for upgrading purposes. any opinions on which op amps might give the best performance? also, i would like to use some 8 pin Dip sockets to install the new op amps but, all i can get local, is from rat shack and don't know how well they would perform with the higher speed chips? anyone tried these particular dip sockets from radio shack? if i have to though, i will solder in place the chips, just want to get the best performance i can. Thanks for any advice!rowemeister said:SIMON.
The four resistors R651 - 654 supply the two HDAM circuits with +/- 12V.
R617 and 618 are the audio input resistors, these need removing to stop audio entering the HDAM.
RH23 and 24 are the output resistors from the HDAM, removing these prevents audio going backwards into the HDAM.
Resistors R619/620 bypass the whole HDAM (like in the CD43/53)
crippledchicken said:hi, am i correct in asuming this is the correct procedure and, resistor numbers for the Marantz cd 67se model to bypass the HDAM? also, i have opa2604/opa2134/lt1364/lm6172/ and ad826 op amps for upgrading purposes. any opinions on which op amps might give the best performance? also, i would like to use some 8 pin Dip sockets to install the new op amps but, all i can get local, is from rat shack and don't know how well they would perform with the higher speed chips? anyone tried these particular dip sockets from radio shack? if i have to though, i will solder in place the chips, just want to get the best performance i can. Thanks for any advice!
It's for the 63 or 67 (they are the same from DAC to RCA output).
Its best to use sockets for now. You can try all the different opamps, if you keep changing the opamps by desoldering and resoldering the pads on the board will lift.
Once you have found the opamp you like then solder in place. I always use sockets that have a gold spun center as the contact is very good.
LM4562 is the best IMHO
Brent
Questions...
Hit there, once again I've questions
for the coax mod, is it the same to use a shielded cable (one pair) or a coax has specific features that make it diffrent compared to a signle wire shielded? I have Industry shielded cable here with one pair of wires, so I can just use one or both and still ground the source side of the shield. Will it work or a coax will be better?
Second... I'm looking for 3x Wima 3.3uf for my flea. Franell and friends charge a lot and sell by 10!
I have spare opamps, as some LM4562 and OPA627 for exchange if needed. Or I can just buy them. I'm looking for a cheaper alternative with Martin's help such as some Epco 2.2uf, but they'll still the budget. But if I can have the "real stuff"...
Thanks
Hit there, once again I've questions
for the coax mod, is it the same to use a shielded cable (one pair) or a coax has specific features that make it diffrent compared to a signle wire shielded? I have Industry shielded cable here with one pair of wires, so I can just use one or both and still ground the source side of the shield. Will it work or a coax will be better?
Second... I'm looking for 3x Wima 3.3uf for my flea. Franell and friends charge a lot and sell by 10!
I have spare opamps, as some LM4562 and OPA627 for exchange if needed. Or I can just buy them. I'm looking for a cheaper alternative with Martin's help such as some Epco 2.2uf, but they'll still the budget. But if I can have the "real stuff"...
Thanks
This has got to be one of the longest threads in history!
Hi Brent! I got the itch...one of our fellow Diy'ers had some 627's for sale. I put them in yesterday. Question: how long do they need to burn in? In the last 12 hours they have changed a lot.
Brilliant upgrade! BUT, as I read somewhere else, they are a bit lightweight in the bass. Has anyone else experienced this? Otherwise the demolish the 2134's in every dept. Oh yes, I have a 67, otherwise why would I be here! There's no way I'm going to
read 600 pages to find the answer!
Hi Brent! I got the itch...one of our fellow Diy'ers had some 627's for sale. I put them in yesterday. Question: how long do they need to burn in? In the last 12 hours they have changed a lot.
Brilliant upgrade! BUT, as I read somewhere else, they are a bit lightweight in the bass. Has anyone else experienced this? Otherwise the demolish the 2134's in every dept. Oh yes, I have a 67, otherwise why would I be here! There's no way I'm going to
read 600 pages to find the answer!
shepperd said:Well you can't have it all...I was too late coming in to get that info. Never mind, I'm quite content. You're right, there's a "family" sound, only much more tactile and resolving. I don't know what flaw I exposed. Wish I didn't hear it
True that you can't have it all... until you pay good money and put the effort in! But in the meantime the 627 is a lovely chip. I found it really musical, just a little coloured and veiled compared to the new benchmark: LM4562. If you find the 627 lacks bass you would also find it with 4562 by the way, so don't be in a hurry to change it.
Thanks! The itch was back... Still you never know...The 'good money' I put in...the effort as well I think. Just because I jump into the end of an endless topic doesn't mean I haven't. I have no pretentions of any expertise, more like the dumb being led by the wise. Hey without this topic I would not have known the existence of the 627 AND I purchased it from one of you!
Still you never know...The 'good money' I put in...the effort as well I think. Just because I jump into the end of an endless topic doesn't mean I haven't. I have no pretentions of any expertise, more like the dumb being led by the wise. Hey without this topic I would not have known the existence of the 627 AND I purchased it from one of you!
I've tweeked the player a little. Added Sercal S Power regs (to replaces the Audiocom Super regs) and soldered them direct with two BG.
I then decided to make a simple shield for both clocks (this will probs make little to no difference).
Here are the pics
Brent
I then decided to make a simple shield for both clocks (this will probs make little to no difference).
Here are the pics
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Brent
op amps again
A fellow member provided me with a set of 627's, lovingly mounted and packaged. In spite of really trying to do it right, I did it wrong! meaning I put them in the wrong way round. Got almost no sound of course. Turned the CDP off, re-did it the right way. It worked. This is not a cool thing to do. So my question is have I compromised the sound/performance of the opamps ?
A fellow member provided me with a set of 627's, lovingly mounted and packaged. In spite of really trying to do it right, I did it wrong! meaning I put them in the wrong way round. Got almost no sound of course. Turned the CDP off, re-did it the right way. It worked. This is not a cool thing to do. So my question is have I compromised the sound/performance of the opamps ?