Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

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SimontY

SimontY

Member
Joined 2003
diymediahome.org
stueyh said:
:D

Got three, oh and a new company is born ;) Cost me $10 in delivery! So, for the fourth do I get to order another one next week?? Im taking it is four? Ive not even looked inside the CDP yet, not even looked at the service manual!

Many thanks

Stuart
Click to expand...

You need two DIPs, I hope you got the right type. You'll have one spare. I got 5 samples, can you only get 3 now??

Simon
 
E

Epicurean

Member
Joined 2006
Anyone tried a Zapfilter in their Marantz? I have a Zapfilter mkII in a chinese Zhaolu DAC using a CS4398 chip and the sound is just ridiculously good considering the price. I'm probably too lazy to try it out myself and the DAC is very versatile as I can use it with DVDs, digital tv and with the computer too.
 
Y

YoungSC

Member
Joined 2006
chnradio.com/ListenNow.asp
YoungSC said:
Hello gents,

I grounded the power supply and the disc span slower, but still didn't read properly.

I decided to probe around with a multimeter. My shaky hands caused a short across Pin 1&2 for QM01. Then everything went blank. Nooooooooooooooooooooooo

I read nothing at the 18V reg and only 3.5V across the main 5V reg. -12V reg was OK and I assume the +12V was OK, but I had trouble getting the probes close enough to measure. I noticed that the fuses had a resistance of about 190ohms. Is that normal?

I measured resistance for most of the components within the power supply boundaries printed on the circuit board and they all seemed to register a current. I didn't check if the values were correct though.

Where should I focus my diagnostic attention?

Thanks,

Simon (Oz)
Click to expand...

I put new fuses in and they blew when I turned the player on.

R164 looks like it's a bridge.

I will measure some more resistors tonight to make sure they're the correct value. Any suggestions for where the problem might be?

Thanks,

Simon (Oz)
 
C

Chivvyp

Member
Joined 2006
YoungSC said:


I put new fuses in and they blew when I turned the player on.

R164 looks like it's a bridge.

I will measure some more resistors tonight to make sure they're the correct value. Any suggestions for where the problem might be?

Thanks,

Simon (Oz)
Click to expand...


If you haven't already, I'd suggest taking the board out and examining the bottom for loose solder drops, snipped of pins etc. causing a short.

It's happened to me many times. Many, many times.

Regards

Pete
 
A

angchuck

Member
Joined 2005
bypassing the board

Hi everyone,

I like to connect a wire bypass straight from the op amps out to new rca jacks, because one channel has no sound. I ripped an eyelet out of the one of the resistor mountings doing the hdam bypass when i was not paying enough attention. :bawling: Tried to fill it up with solder but to no avail.

Could anyone tell me which opamp pins to signal out and which to ground.

Many Thanks,

Chuck.
 
Glenn2

Glenn2

Member
Joined 2006
Re: bypassing the board

angchuck said:
Hi everyone,

I like to connect a wire bypass straight from the op amps out to new rca jacks, because one channel has no sound. I ripped an eyelet out of the one of the resistor mountings doing the hdam bypass when i was not paying enough attention. :bawling: Tried to fill it up with solder but to no avail.

Could anyone tell me which opamp pins to signal out and which to ground.

Many Thanks,

Chuck.
Click to expand...

Annoying isn't it?

You need to take the ground from the analogue ground next to the original RCA jacks. The op-amp has no ground, it has +12V and -12V and the input and output signals are referenced to ground but there is no ground connection on the op-amp. The signal leaves on pin 7. Don't connect it straight to the jacks - use a 75R-100R resistor between the two.

Hope this helps!

Glenn
 
Glenn2

Glenn2

Member
Joined 2006
Hi Guys,

A few questions to those of you that have played with the many incarnations of the CD-63 and CD-67 (Ray, Brent, ...)

When the CD-63 went to the MkII version - what changed?

The the CD-67SE became CD-67MkIIOSE - what changed?

When Ken Ishiwata 'breathed on' the 63, was it just a bit of copper plating and a toroidal transformer or did other things change (from the 63SE).

So, including both 63 and 67 (and baby brothers using same/similar PCB) we have:
CD-43
CD-53
CD-53MkII
CD-63
CD-63SE
CD-63SE KI Sig
CD-63MkII
CD-63MkII SE
CD-63MkII SE KI Sig
CD-57
CD-57MkII
CD-67
CD-67SE
CD-67MkII
CD-67MkII OSE

Have I missed any?!
I won't throw in the 6000s!
 
poynton

poynton

Member
Joined 2005
HI.

CD43/53 have no HDAM. No remote ??
CD63 has HDAM

Major differences are component values and types.
There are minor transformer variations mainly depending on country.
====================

The main difference with the KI is the toroid transformer. The KI (also SE) has a brace across the chassis and a reinforcing plate on the bottom.

The KI has a plated chassis and also 'better' components.

============

For modding purposes, the CD53 is the best player to buy.


Andy
 
Glenn2

Glenn2

Member
Joined 2006
Hi Andy,

Yes, what I really wanted to know was:

a) was happened between Mk1 and Mk2 versions.

b) other than tranny and casework, what else does the KI have.

I've heard before that the KI has better components.... but I can't see any evidence of this apart from the transformer. My old bog-standard CD-63 had the full complement of Silmics and Cerafines etc. The HDAM covers were not copper like the SE/KI.

(BTW - The 53 lacks HDAM and optical out, 43 lacks HDAM, optical out and remote. They also use ceramic capacitors in the LPF. The 43 also has lower-grade op-amps and no audio electrolytics.)
 
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