rowemeister said:Ray
I always clean mine too. I dont know about you but here in the UK the solder is now lead free and it's crap. Its 60/40 Tin Copper.
The solder is much duller to look at and it annoys me
It cools and sets much quicker than the lead.
Also C605 etc with the inductor, I remember you said you shortened out the inductor and changed the cap for nearly half value, is this correct?
Hm. It's better for our health of course, but more difficult for us DIY'ers. I didn't have to handsolder with it yet, but I know the melting temperature is higher. I still have enough 'old-style' in stock.
Yes, the idea with C605/606 is to make them smaller to change the filter slope to Bessel. It has a more linear group-delay time. The inductor forms a series resonant circuit, so technically you have to retune it. But in the CD67 they omitted it, so I guess you can short it if you like. The full story is here.
Immediately after the mod I found the highs sounded more relaxed, less stressed. I experimented a bit and made the cap a little bigger, 560pF.
Ray.
Hi.
I've just looked on Ebay. There is loads of lead alloy solder listed!!! and at reasonable prices.
Andy
PS. Don't knock car boot sales - my best bargain to date has to be a mint Counterpoint SA-7 preamp - 100% legit and with all documents - for £50 !!! The seller was in a RR and had just upgraded to KRELL .
I've just looked on Ebay. There is loads of lead alloy solder listed!!! and at reasonable prices.
Andy
PS. Don't knock car boot sales - my best bargain to date has to be a mint Counterpoint SA-7 preamp - 100% legit and with all documents - for £50 !!! The seller was in a RR and had just upgraded to KRELL .
BTW: it is still legal to sell and use solder wire including lead! It is not allowed to produce and sell complete devices, including some lead.
It is completely wrong, to repair an old device with lead free solder, as both qualities mixed don't behave well.
For medicinal and military devices, lead is still allowed.
Franz
So, while we are in suspense for the trannies, what's the next mod-move on the CD63/67 players?
Personally, i'm scraping parts together for a tube output stage, to get rid of the opamps (= feedback) entirely. Will need another custom tranny for that I guess, since it needs heatervoltage and >200V or so.
Anyone out there that already built one and has good tips?
Regards,
Ray.
Personally, i'm scraping parts together for a tube output stage, to get rid of the opamps (= feedback) entirely. Will need another custom tranny for that I guess,
since it needs heatervoltage and >200V or so.Anyone out there that already built one and has good tips?
Regards,
Ray.
I'm so happy with the sound of mine now that I've lost the urgency to mod it any further. I am currently thinking about an upgrade / extra bass potency for my speakers. In the meantime I will grow used to the new sound and will find the need to improve it again sometime soon hopefully. And when I do I will report here
6h5c said:.......... Will need another custom tranny for that I guess,
Hi.
Surely the tube Tx specs will depend on what tube is to be used. I have a load of 6BF7 (and equivalents ) and some E88CC.
HT for these can be low, 20v? so a 'special ' would not be required.
Also using a minature tube like 6BF7 means space would not be a problem.
Andy
rowemeister said:
Hi.
I am half way through modding the HF section in my '63.
The main problem here is the +5v supply. It's fed serially of the same +5v as the uP (MN187164 - QF01 ) and so will be picking up LOADS of hash !! I am cutting the feed and wiring direct to the 5v supply via screened cable. I have also fed the HF Transistors Q501/502 via screened cable for the same reason. The HF signal is now via screen cable from the HF pcb to R501. The original tracks have been isolated and grounded. The final stage is now underway. I have literally just returned from a shopping trip with some thin brass sheet to fabricate a screening 'box' around the HF board itself.
Andy