SimontY said:
As you can see I've yet to make a comparison (in the same piece of equipment) between OPA627 and LM4562 but for what it'll cost and how easy it is... Just use LM4562 and FORGET ABOUT IT!
I thought that might be the answer!
LM4562 hopefully on the way, so we'll soon see.
I also bought a 500VA site transformer on your recommendation. Not had a chance to back-to-back test it yet.
LM4562s, dedicated ±12V supply for opamps, Acoustica clock hack and a healthy dose of bypassing/decoupling up next...
Anyone got any recommendations on caps for decoupling the opamps (Panasonic FCs, Farnell part #9692401?) and the 0.1uF stacked foil/X7R needed for the Acoustica hack?
I haven't changed/bypassed any caps yet on my 53 (other than removing the output caps). Where am I likely to see the best bang for my buck?
Greg
SimontY said:Yeh, so I connected my first transformer to my bridge and smoothing caps... Wow, cool flash and pop! And I still have no idea what went wrong...
My housemates weren't overly impressed that I tripped the RCD
Kids, don't play with fire and/or electricity!
LMAO
What went pop?
Sounds like either the diodes were wrongly connected or caps were reverse polarity
Brent
rowemeister said:
The 5amp fuse in the mains lead went pop
The tx primaries and secondaries all seem to measure appropriately (resistance) and the diodes and caps all look fine visually. I can't find any shorts or anything dodgy like that.
There is a scorch mark near the tx on my wire holding clip, so I think a winding got hot instantly or something. I'm very confused
edit: thinking about it, the wire clip could've cut into the mains wire and caused a short, which now doesn't measure as such because it got "blown away" from the other conductor. A possibility? It's the first thing I'll check when I get home.
Simon
Greg3333 said:I thought that might be the answer!
LM4562 hopefully on the way, so we'll soon see.
I think you'll like it.
Excellent! Someone finally listened! I think you'll like this too, please let us know what you hear.
Great, I think with bypassing it's useful on digital circuits (but perhaps not necessarily on analogue ones).
Small, high quality electrolytics. Also the X7R, if I remember correctly, is considered very desirable as a decoupling cap.
Sorry, I'm not sure! Do them all! And listen to Jaap's advice about using the correct size for each circuit. He knows his stuff and it saves splashing out on really big macho caps!
With that said, I flouted some people's advice and used 4700uF caps on the decoupling caps near the DAC and decoder and it certainly brought improvement. But could similar improvement have been had with 470uF caps? Maybe...
Simon
rowemeister said:
Yes, it went pretty much instantly.. And it tripped not only the MCB, but also the RCD in the consumer unit. I fumbled, with no torch to hand...
poynton said:
Hi, yes, but I had already tested the tx secondaries for AC with the primaries wired appropriately. So the problem can't really be there.
Simon
Simon, take a look at the cables in the cable clip you mentioned, if there is a break down in insulation its possible there was a brief short, if the clip is stickyback i doubt it would have made it to earth. Please clarify the problems as id like to have a go at building it also, ill post pics of my mega mains filter, Thank goodness for RCD's ! Best thing to do with anything electrical is to carry out a insulation test at 500Vdc, this will identify any breakdowns. As all probably know the use of correct capacitors and winding connections is paramount, and always use an earth connection.
Any pics of the build...... did u get any pre and post small explosion
About the LM4562's in the 63KI, i replaced my 2114's, cleaned all pins with IPA, Gold Plated Sockets (not gold over nickel) sockets silver soldered correctly, cleaned 4562's pop em in and wow, even with the hdam inplace, a vast improvement is noticed in the mid range, made my 63 less bright, ummm you may ask about treble damage. Well i still got all my highs, base is excellent, the mid is well sorted now. Burnt in as much as i could in a short time over night using a burn in track and then some music.
Lower noise floor also on the 4562's but i aint heard the other offerings, im smitten on the 4562's and so glad i didnt buy the Burson audio hdam units, they may be real good, but i got these for free
Dennis
Any pics of the build...... did u get any pre and post small explosion
About the LM4562's in the 63KI, i replaced my 2114's, cleaned all pins with IPA, Gold Plated Sockets (not gold over nickel) sockets silver soldered correctly, cleaned 4562's pop em in and wow, even with the hdam inplace, a vast improvement is noticed in the mid range, made my 63 less bright, ummm you may ask about treble damage. Well i still got all my highs, base is excellent, the mid is well sorted now. Burnt in as much as i could in a short time over night using a burn in track and then some music.
Lower noise floor also on the 4562's but i aint heard the other offerings, im smitten on the 4562's and so glad i didnt buy the Burson audio hdam units, they may be real good, but i got these for free
Dennis
Hi Dennis,
I'm glad you like those op-amps, I don't know what we'd do if we didn't all agree on these crucial things!
I have some pics I took and I'll show some more this evening probably, as you've asked. No impressive damage shots though, there's just a scorched clip, and it is plastic-backed. But it's next to the edge of the earthed chassis, so I'd say it could be shorted. I will inspect thoroughly very soon, when I get home! I do doubt the teflon insulation would cut through so easily, but we'll see.
Slightly annoyed but not deterred I will carry on and make this series of upgrades work, and work well. I updated my schematic to include some inductors after the regulators, as this seems a cool thing to do and maybe it will ween out noise to a tiny level. It will go CLCLC. I think that is a sensible arrangement. Then there'll be a 2.2uF and 33nF film cap last of all. The clock will think all it's birthdays have come at once. Btw I'm using all these parts because I have them. I'd possibly use different values if buying from scratch.
Simon
I'm glad you like those op-amps, I don't know what we'd do if we didn't all agree on these crucial things!
I have some pics I took and I'll show some more this evening probably, as you've asked. No impressive damage shots though, there's just a scorched clip, and it is plastic-backed. But it's next to the edge of the earthed chassis, so I'd say it could be shorted. I will inspect thoroughly very soon, when I get home! I do doubt the teflon insulation would cut through so easily, but we'll see.
Slightly annoyed but not deterred I will carry on and make this series of upgrades work, and work well. I updated my schematic to include some inductors after the regulators, as this seems a cool thing to do and maybe it will ween out noise to a tiny level. It will go CLCLC. I think that is a sensible arrangement. Then there'll be a 2.2uF and 33nF film cap last of all. The clock will think all it's birthdays have come at once. Btw I'm using all these parts because I have them. I'd possibly use different values if buying from scratch.
Simon
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SimontY said:
Just had a quick listen. With the isolation transformer everything is marginally clearer and perhaps also slightly less harsh. Not a huge difference, and definitely one that you could just put down to wanting to hear an improvement, but small background noises and subtleties are more easily noticeable when using the transformer. Seems like a nice change for £20 and possibly one which I'll get even more benefit from when the rest of the power supply and mains conditioning is up to scratch?
Well, I'm with the LM4562 for some days now and I use it on the headphone section also. ( My room is the main sound problem... ). With the OEM one ( worst than a 2114...) it sounded " like a painting in the fog ", then came the AD8620 : someone turned on some powerful ligths : we can see something even if overbright ! And now the LM4562, it "just" seems the fog is gone and this is just a shiny and cristal clear day ! The voices seems so clear ! I'm very happy it sounds just "real" !!!
Now a question: I've done this :
"Basically QN05...08 are the ones to remove to disable muting on the RCA output, and QN91/92 for the headphone circuit. If you do this both, you can also take out the driver transistors QN24/25 and two resistors that feed the muting lines (RN27/28)."
But I have no "clic" between track or such, is it normal?
Now a question: I've done this :
"Basically QN05...08 are the ones to remove to disable muting on the RCA output, and QN91/92 for the headphone circuit. If you do this both, you can also take out the driver transistors QN24/25 and two resistors that feed the muting lines (RN27/28)."
But I have no "clic" between track or such, is it normal?
Well, my first PSU is now working fine. I simply had a short where the wire clip had sliced into the mains live. I've fixed the psu board in and I'm now working on the second one (to power divider circuit).
Well you always have to wonder. It's a good sign when you can hear new details and they surprise you, out of the blue. I personally found a subtle increase in detail, reduced glare and harshness and a generally smoother and sweeter top end.
Excellent news. Another happy LM4562 user! I'm just waiting for someone to come on and dare to say it's only "average" now lol.
You only get the click if you install a muting relay. The click is the relay shutting off the output when it's told to "mute".
Back to work on this 2nd psu then....
Simon
Greg3333 said:
Well you always have to wonder. It's a good sign when you can hear new details and they surprise you, out of the blue. I personally found a subtle increase in detail, reduced glare and harshness and a generally smoother and sweeter top end.
Malefoda said:
Excellent news. Another happy LM4562 user! I'm just waiting for someone to come on and dare to say it's only "average" now lol.
You only get the click if you install a muting relay. The click is the relay shutting off the output when it's told to "mute".
Back to work on this 2nd psu then....
Simon