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Old 18th October 2013, 10:07 AM   #19841
Mooly is online now Mooly  United Kingdom
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I'm not aware of any alternatives.

Do you know if it was a genuine Philips part or not ?
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Old 18th October 2013, 03:19 PM   #19842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scumble View Post
It's possible I had a particularly bad 1202 unit, maybe I should have sent it back. It's very difficult to know what sort of quality you're going to get, but it seems strange for such an industry standard unit. I'm guessing that these philips transports are used in many chinese manufactured CD units...

Unfortunately I don't have any test equipment - I'm not much of an electronics enthusiast, I just couldn't face binning perfectly good audio electronics because of a broken laser. I used to dabble when I was a teenager so the soldering didn't scare me off...

I didn't find anything in this thread about using more reliable transport units. I've seen that you can use expensive die-cast transports but is there anything in between?
Unfortunately nowadays all the Philips lasers are made in China. A Chinese Company is authorized to make them. All the lasers available on the markets are the same irrespective of whether you buy them from UK, China, Hong Kong or Singapore.
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Old 18th October 2013, 03:45 PM   #19843
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I think I found the web site of the manufacturer.

I have a feeling I may end up trying another VAM1202 or give up and buy a new CD player. Still not getting entirely reliable operation.
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Old 18th October 2013, 05:13 PM   #19844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scumble View Post
I think I found the web site of the manufacturer.

I have a feeling I may end up trying another VAM1202 or give up and buy a new CD player. Still not getting entirely reliable operation.
Where did you get it from ?

Try CPC,
VAM1202/12 - UNBRANDED - AIWA, VAM1202/12 CD PICK UP | CPC

or Charles Hyde,
Search results for vam1202
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Old 18th October 2013, 05:54 PM   #19845
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I got it from TheOneStopSatShop via Amazon. I don't think I can be bothered to take the thing apart again as there isn't much else I can do - seems to be clean and adequately lubricated. I'll give it some time and see if the skipping tails off before trying CPC for another 1202. I got a bit irritable and actually knocked the player when it was stuck so I'm wondering if the Irish approach helped...

I'll have a better idea of the quality I'm looking for at least.

By the way, why do they describe those as from "AIWA" - I only remember them as a cheap brand sold in Currys.

Last edited by scumble; 18th October 2013 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 18th October 2013, 06:08 PM   #19846
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Its just the way CPC's part numbering works. The pickup will have been used in an Aiwa at some point and that one reference has carried forward. Aiwa, which was bought out by Sony, was a well known brand available widely. The cassette decks were top notch and gave Nakamichi a run for their money on sound quality.
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Old 18th October 2013, 07:02 PM   #19847
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Well, we will have to see which bit fails next. For no apparent reason it's started playing CDs without a problem after a few glitches. It must have something to do with that last "clean and grease" and a couple of taps to the mechanism when it got stuck. It's apparent to me why it's expensive to get someone else to repair a CD player given the amount of time I've spent fiddling about.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions, I may have given up sooner without them!
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Old 18th October 2013, 09:20 PM   #19848
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Default re laser

Seems like a rogue part to me ive had a few no problems so try anotherThe many ive had over the years had no problems.

thanks alan
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Old 20th October 2013, 07:48 AM   #19849
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Originally Posted by higlander View Post
Just noticed that in eBay there is a low cost +5V voltage regulator using TI TPS7A4700 chip which can be used to directly replace 7805 regulators.

TekDevice 5V 1A 4.17uVrms Ultra Low Noise LDO Voltage Regulator For DAC Preamp | eBay

The specification of this chip looks very encouraging. I may order one or two to try it out.
Just received two regulators from eBay and I then replaced the 7805 regulator in my CD63 with one of them to check its performance. With a quick audition the SQ is found to be cleaner though by not much as I have already installed 6 separate self made low noise regulators LT1763 for the DAC, Servo and decoder chips. This replacement regulator now only supplies +5V to other remaining +5V circuits.
I then used my oscilloscope to measure the AC noise of this regulator in order of micro volts and I found the noise level of this regulator is about 1/3 of the LT1763 which is really a surprise to me. Then I dig out the datasheet for both and the noise level of LT1763 is 20uV while TPS7A4700 is only 5uV and that explains the reason.
This low cost low noise regulators might not be as good as FA's sPower but in considering it only costs a fraction of sPower IMHO it could be a budget choice.
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Old 20th October 2013, 07:39 PM   #19850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by higlander View Post
Just received two regulators from eBay and I then replaced the 7805 regulator in my CD63 with one of them to check its performance. With a quick audition the SQ is found to be cleaner though by not much as I have already installed 6 separate self made low noise regulators LT1763 for the DAC, Servo and decoder chips. This replacement regulator now only supplies +5V to other remaining +5V circuits.
I then used my oscilloscope to measure the AC noise of this regulator in order of micro volts and I found the noise level of this regulator is about 1/3 of the LT1763 which is really a surprise to me. Then I dig out the datasheet for both and the noise level of LT1763 is 20uV while TPS7A4700 is only 5uV and that explains the reason.
This low cost low noise regulators might not be as good as FA's sPower but in considering it only costs a fraction of sPower IMHO it could be a budget choice.
I was waiting for you to audition those regs
I might use 6 * +/- 12v for servo drivers.

also, can you advise on TX wiring.
The 7VA TX i got has 3 wires on the primary.
Brown 230v, grey 115v and Blue neutral.
Do I wire the brown and grey together for 230v or just wire the brown and leave the grey unattached.
I assume this TX would normally be wired through a switch for 230 / 115 v options.
I'm
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1448591.pdf

Cheers
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