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Old 5th May 2013, 08:25 PM   #19331
dwjames is offline dwjames  England
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Nice work Highlander
I can see you've added your new regs in for the 5v to the Dac, decoder and servo, but you've also removed the standard 7805 regulator. Don't other parts of the circuit like the display chip still need it's 5v supply or do you have a different plan?

Also, could you explain about how/why you've clocked the decoder by adding a new clock feed to near the Dac rather than wire straight to the decoder please? I'm adding a new clock to mine in the next week, so I'm keen to understand what's involved. I've seen mention of the decoder needing a buffered input from the clock.
Thanks,
James
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Old 5th May 2013, 09:22 PM   #19332
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwjames View Post
Nice work Highlander
I can see you've added your new regs in for the 5v to the Dac, decoder and servo, but you've also removed the standard 7805 regulator. Don't other parts of the circuit like the display chip still need it's 5v supply or do you have a different plan?

Also, could you explain about how/why you've clocked the decoder by adding a new clock feed to near the Dac rather than wire straight to the decoder please? I'm adding a new clock to mine in the next week, so I'm keen to understand what's involved. I've seen mention of the decoder needing a buffered input from the clock.
Thanks,
James
I removed the stock 7805 and replaced it with a low noise regulator of bigger capacity to supply all the 5V sources apart from the critical ones like the servo, decoder and DAC. This will ensure all the other circuits using 5V benefit from low noise supply.

Actually 3 coaxial cables are used, one for the servo (8.xxxMhz), one for the DAC (16.xxxMhz) and one for the Decoder (16.xxxMhz).

If you look at the circuit diagram you will notice that the decoder is clocked by a signal via the DAC. To get a better result it is better to clock the decoder directly by an external clock and not via the DAC. Hope this explains the situation.
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Old 7th May 2013, 03:41 PM   #19333
timjar is offline timjar  England
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Default greetings to everyone

Hi all,
discovered this thread and forum recently, I modded a cd63se about 15 years ago doing all of Thorstens mods plus I added a clock, I remember how replacing the signal tracks tracks from one chip to another took nearly as long as all the other mods combined. was really pleased with the result even though I hadn't got a clue what I was doing, so I decided to buy a beginners book on electronics, It's still gathering dust somewhere.
Anyway I have bought a cd63 off Ebay ready to do even more after I have built a 'lovely cube' headphone amp, so expect me to be asking questions soon.
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Old 7th May 2013, 06:41 PM   #19334
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Originally Posted by timjar View Post
Hi all,
discovered this thread and forum recently, I modded a cd63se about 15 years ago doing all of Thorstens mods plus I added a clock, I remember how replacing the signal tracks tracks from one chip to another took nearly as long as all the other mods combined. was really pleased with the result even though I hadn't got a clue what I was doing, so I decided to buy a beginners book on electronics, It's still gathering dust somewhere.
Anyway I have bought a cd63 off Ebay ready to do even more after I have built a 'lovely cube' headphone amp, so expect me to be asking questions soon.
You are welcomed and this is the purpose of this thread I am sure all of us will share our experience with you.
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Old 7th May 2013, 09:15 PM   #19335
timjar is offline timjar  England
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Thanks Higlander,
I have actually been already looking back at your posts as your players after they are modded look quite tidy inside compared to others that look quite chaotic. I noticed one of your first posts was asking where to connect up the new power supplies, something I had already been wondering about myself.
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Old 7th May 2013, 09:24 PM   #19336
timjar is offline timjar  England
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I have a question for Ray, when he next visits, as I have just been on his site.

I was wondering why the mod of connecting signal wires from the one chip to the other under the board doesn't get mentioned, I have just read the article by Mauro Penasa.
I assume therefore that his mod is implemented instead.
I know from experience how difficult Thorstens mod is to implement, but which is more effective?
I fancy the challenge of doing it again.
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Old 8th May 2013, 06:32 AM   #19337
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Originally Posted by timjar View Post
Thanks Higlander,
I have actually been already looking back at your posts as your players after they are modded look quite tidy inside compared to others that look quite chaotic. I noticed one of your first posts was asking where to connect up the new power supplies, something I had already been wondering about myself.
Thanks for the kind words timjar. If you look further down on the thread you will noticed that I have found out how the new TXs should be connected. I have already posted wiring diagrams and photos for such. See thread number 19290: Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

Last edited by higlander; 8th May 2013 at 06:34 AM.
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Old 8th May 2013, 08:55 AM   #19338
dwjames is offline dwjames  England
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So I was busy last night.
I turned this:
Click the image to open in full size.

into this
Click the image to open in full size.

And also populated a CFP DOS board while I was at it.
Work in progress:
Click the image to open in full size.

and my finished version, just waiting for the LM317/LM337 voltage regs:
Click the image to open in full size.
I have omitted T6, T7, C6, R13, R14, R15 because I'm not using the final stage of the board. I've added little header pins in at T6 and ground so I can easily take the signal for my tube output stage. Can't wait to hear it.

Great boards to work with, really nicely made how the solder points are little solid tubes all the way through the board rather than just thin tracks sitting on top

Both were easy enough to make with the exception of the surface mount caps and resistors for the Flea being a little fiddly, but a good soldering iron and a pair of tweezers did the job and I only had to hunt around on the floor on my hands and knees for one of the caps as it went pinging off

So I've got a couple more little bits to do to get ready to fit them, but nothing major.
I'm also considering adding the 2 separately so I can get a good feel for what each one does and so there's less opportunities to break something...

I'm struggling a little with the detail of adding the clock directly to the decoder though...
Brent's very helpful list says:
Lift C521 at the dac side and attach a 16.934Mhz clock feed from the dac clock using a buffered output - this clocks the decoder direct
Which sounds easy enough, but I can't find C521 either on my board or in the schematics
It's quite possible I'm being daft, but it's got me confused... Can anyone help me out with details of exactly how and where they connected a new clock feed for the dac and decoder separately please? I understand the clock supply to the DAC that's quite straightforward. I can see there's a clock output from pin4 of the DAC that goes to pin 13 of the Decoder via RD14 and U193 from what I can make out, but no mention of a capacitor C521 anywhere
Thanks,
James
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Old 8th May 2013, 12:18 PM   #19339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwjames View Post

I'm struggling a little with the detail of adding the clock directly to the decoder though...
Brent's very helpful list says:
Lift C521 at the dac side and attach a 16.934Mhz clock feed from the dac clock using a buffered output - this clocks the decoder direct
Which sounds easy enough, but I can't find C521 either on my board or in the schematics
It's quite possible I'm being daft, but it's got me confused... Can anyone help me out with details of exactly how and where they connected a new clock feed for the dac and decoder separately please? I understand the clock supply to the DAC that's quite straightforward. I can see there's a clock output from pin4 of the DAC that goes to pin 13 of the Decoder via RD14 and U193 from what I can make out, but no mention of a capacitor C521 anywhere
Thanks,
James
If you do not see C512 then your PCB is an old version (or not SE or KI). In that case you can lift one leg of RD14 and then feed the 16.xx MHz clock signal to Pin 13 (CRIN) of the decoder via this 100 pf cap (RD14). It should work.

Last edited by higlander; 8th May 2013 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 8th May 2013, 12:23 PM   #19340
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The decoder circuit for a newer version of the PCB is as shown:
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Decoder.pdf (139.9 KB, 16 views)
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