Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 1927 - diyAudio
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Old 18th April 2013, 05:57 PM   #19261
luke2fr is offline luke2fr  France
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Paris
Hey everyone ! Got to share this.
Yesterday, I bought a set of soundcare superspike, the one that you paste to fix them. I put them under my CD57. It's full of bitume damping since I started to mod it.
I only played one disc yesterday evening, but didn't have time to test correctly. Today, I get back home ealier. Put that same disc than yesterday, and again, on first track, felt like something was missing. I removed the spike (I didn't paste them yet for easy testing), and ran it again. Some big bass came back ! I put them again, and tried again, to discover those bass from the beginning of the track are almost muted. Also felt like there's more air now. I had a strange feeling, so I put some other track I like because of their big bass. (some cypress hill) Hopefully, big bass are still here, but now sounds a bit different, like there's more detail in them. Sometimes even feel like it's more deep.
My conclusion, I bet I will find some tunes really different sometimes, but most often, it will sounds way better than before. I really wasn't expecting such a change. Now got to try adding some under my amp and speakers.
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Old 18th April 2013, 10:21 PM   #19262
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Default Got the SMC soldered on

Thanks for your tips.
I got these soldered on. I have a pair of cheap magnafying glasses to wear and they worked well. Glad I attempted it. Now I am trying to find a place where I can purchase a 47pf or 50pf styrene cap in the US. I broke my ceramic cap when I put it in the wrong holes and I could not desolder it. Had to snip it out of one of the holes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stvnharr View Post
I should have added in my post the following:
In soldering smd resistors I first put some solder on one of the pads. Then I get the resistor in place on that pad and hold the resistor with a pointy thing like a soldering tool or a pencil tip, and then heat the solder on the pad and hold the resistor in place until the solder cools, only a couple seconds. I try to have the resistor properly lined up on the other pad at this time. It's easy to readjust by just heating the one pad with solder on it and slightly moving the resistor. When all is well then just add solder to the other pad and the resistor. The one thing you do not want to do it apply too much heat directly to the resistor as the film is delicate. And I always check the connection with my dmm after soldering to be sure of things.
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Old 18th April 2013, 11:06 PM   #19263
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Location: Bath, UK
Don't worry, the Flea tests normally and works just fine without the 47pF cap to pin 8 of the AD797.

You can install the flea and add this part later when you can source one; any CG0 / NPO ceramic cap will be fine here
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Old 18th April 2013, 11:17 PM   #19264
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Thanks Martin
Quote:
Originally Posted by martin clark View Post
Don't worry, the Flea tests normally and works just fine without the 47pF cap to pin 8 of the AD797.

You can install the flea and add this part later when you can source one; any CG0 / NPO ceramic cap will be fine here
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Old 19th April 2013, 01:05 PM   #19265
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Default Flea Recommendation

Martin,
Are there any standard parts on the Flea that you would recommend upgrading, ie caps?
Thanks,
Jerry
Quote:
Originally Posted by martin clark View Post
Don't worry, the Flea tests normally and works just fine without the 47pF cap to pin 8 of the AD797.

You can install the flea and add this part later when you can source one; any CG0 / NPO ceramic cap will be fine here
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Old 19th April 2013, 02:36 PM   #19266
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Smile CD67 OSE Mod Parts List

Well it is time for me to order more parts for the CD67 Mods and have some more questions about Ray's parts list (Thanks Ray for your website and your assistance!!! - Much appreciated)

Power Supply:
- Are the Elna RSH audio grade parts? I can not seem to find any so was wonder what the recommended replacements would be?
- I am assuming under Remarks that PPS stands for Metallized Polyphenylene Sulfide Film caps. Are these leaded parts or SMC?
- Assuming these are to be used as bypass caps across the electrolytic.
- Why are some bypassed with PPS and other with X7R caps?
- Would Polystyrene be better than these or is there no difference in this application?
- Diodes are replaced with 11DQ10 Schottkys. Should a snubber cap be placed across these or not? Seems like I had heard a debate on this at one point.

HDM and Op Amps:
- I plan on removing these completely so assume this section does not apply but was wondering what +2 ferrites means under Remarks? Are these just like the beads that were included in the Flea kit? Are they placed on the wire leads of the specified inductor to add more inductance? I can not seem to locate these in the US.

Output Filter:
-If I am using a DOS board, do I ignore these mods?
-Any advantage or Mica caps over Polystyrene?

DAC, Decoder, Drivers, uController, Servo PCB:
- Would it be better to use Solid Polymere caps list the OSCON SEPC in the digital sections? I notice that some do this. Assuming because of lower ESR.
If so, does anyone have a list of the Caps I should replace on the CD67 SE?

I feel like a 5 year old with all my questions. I am sure more to follow . . .

:-)
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Old 19th April 2013, 03:21 PM   #19267
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Default CD63 KI mod - Step 2

Time to continue with my mods on my old trusty CD63 KI mkII.

Done so far:
Removed muting transistors
Bypassed DC blocking caps
Replaced RCA analogue sockets

In Step 2 I am thinking of replacing Op-amps with LME49720HA.

I will also upgrade some critical caps in the player. This is my list of caps Im thinking of using:

Power supply
C803/804 Panasonic TSUP 10000uF/35v
C805/806 Rubycon ZA 470uF/16v
C813 Panasonic TSUP 22000uF/16v
C814 Panasonic TSUP 22000uF/16v
C815 Panasonic FM 4700uF/6.3v
HDAM & OPAMPS

C611...614 Rubycon ZA 470uF/16v
DAC

CD04 remove
CD05 Rubycon ZA 16V 470uF + 47n cer.
CD06 Rubycon ZA 16V 470uF + 47n cer.
CD07 remove
CD12/13 remove
CD15/16 Rubycon ZA 16V 470uF + 47n cer.
HF-amp

C503 remove
C504 Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v
Decoder

C510/511 Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v
Servo & Vref

C120 Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v
C122 Rubycon ZL 470uF/16v

Is it recommended to bypass some of the caps in the power supply, what values?
Please let me know what you think about this list. Is it reasonable? Is something missing? Should something be different?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 19th April 2013, 03:24 PM   #19268
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Jerry - no, it's remarkably insensitive to parts by design

If anything, I would now recommend that rather than 10K/3u3 in the input filter driving the base of the BC547, you reduce the R value to 1K up to 3K3 and go larger with the capacitor. This means a change to tantalum or electrolytic types e.g. 1K/47uF or 100uF is good. It slightly reduces the supply impedance to the 7812, and more usefully - reduces the dropout voltage by a volt or so.
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Old 19th April 2013, 04:48 PM   #19269
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Thanks,
Jerry
Quote:
Originally Posted by martin clark View Post
Jerry - no, it's remarkably insensitive to parts by design

If anything, I would now recommend that rather than 10K/3u3 in the input filter driving the base of the BC547, you reduce the R value to 1K up to 3K3 and go larger with the capacitor. This means a change to tantalum or electrolytic types e.g. 1K/47uF or 100uF is good. It slightly reduces the supply impedance to the 7812, and more usefully - reduces the dropout voltage by a volt or so.
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Old 20th April 2013, 11:03 PM   #19270
dwjames is offline dwjames  England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefanom View Post
Power supply
C803/804 Panasonic TSUP 10000uF/35v
C805/806 Rubycon ZA 470uF/16v
C813 Panasonic TSUP 22000uF/16v
C814 Panasonic TSUP 22000uF/16v
Bear in mind that if you wish to upgrade to a 50va toroidal 12v transformer at some point (and you should because it's cheap and quite easy with good results) that 16v caps for c813 & c814 will need to be changed to at least 25v, because the rail runs at more like 18v with this power supply. So you may wish to just go for 25v now for these.
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