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Old 4th April 2013, 09:22 PM   #19191
lymmlad is offline lymmlad  England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwjames View Post
Don't buy posh capacitors on eBay from the Far East, there are loads of fakes.

I'd try Farnells, or failing that, Digikey in the USA have basically everything you could ever want and can have it with you in 2 days if you can stomach the 15 quid delivery and import duty
Hi, Thanks for the tips... just tried Farnell and Digikey (UK and USA), but no luck unfortunately.
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Old 5th April 2013, 07:37 AM   #19192
6h5c is offline 6h5c  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredimania View Post
Hello,

if somebody can give me a tip!
After I unite instructions to Ray's
Mods has made is a problem with the
IR Receiver appeared.
I can serve the player only from 10 cm of distance over the remote control.
Does somebody have an idea where the mistake is?
Hi Fredi,

Did you put an electrolytic on the front panel board, across CY01? It's near the infra-red receiver. Any cap between 10...47uF will do. That will solve your problem!

Ray
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Old 5th April 2013, 01:41 PM   #19193
dwjames is offline dwjames  England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6h5c View Post
Hi,

That's the idea indeed :-)

If thing get really tight, you can move some small ceramics to the back of the board, but if you leave the electrolytics a few mm from the board, it fits nicely.

Here's a picture of how I did it. I didn't use separate regulators for each driver, but replaced U234 and U237 with regulators later on.

Regards,

Ray
Thanks Ray, I got them in nicely with a bit of leg bending
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

and some X7R on the back
Click the image to open in full size.

I like the idea of just using 1 positive and 1 negative regulator for the 3 drivers using U234 and U237 and I understand I need to cut and rejoin to U161 so that it's included correctly.
But I'm unsure about what to do with the resistors if I'm doing this?
R127 & R128, R149 & R150, R164 & R165
Should I leave them, bridge them or replace them with something else?

thanks again,
James

Last edited by dwjames; 5th April 2013 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 5th April 2013, 02:30 PM   #19194
6h5c is offline 6h5c  Netherlands
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Hi James,

Nice work!

Those resistors are very low in value, so they won't cause much voltage drop. They are there to act as fuses, just in case a driver burns out. I would leave them in place. The regulator will take care of the seriously large voltage fluctuations, so that's fixed.

Ray
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Old 5th April 2013, 03:26 PM   #19195
dwjames is offline dwjames  England
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thanks

Next job is to install the 50va Tx, but I didn't realise that the 22,000uf STUP cap I just fitted on the +10v rail is only 16v, so I have to delay a little while I get a replacement..
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Old 6th April 2013, 03:25 PM   #19196
luke2fr is offline luke2fr  France
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Hi

I need some help.
So far I've followed Ray modding list for my CD57..
Today I've done the last thing left :


Decoder (Q102, SAA7372GP)
part ref | original part | new part
C108 | 100n cer. | 100n MKT
C109 | 22n cer. | 100n MKT
C110 | 47p cer. | 47p PS
C114 | 47u/16V | remove
C115/117...119 | 47n cer. | 100n PPS
C116 | 47n cer. | 220u/16V
C120 | 47u/16V | 220u/16V
C125 | 1n cer. | 1n PS
R117/118 | 4,7R | 220uH/3R3

μController (QF01, MN187164)
CF02 | 47u/16V | remove
CF01 | 47n cer. | 220u/16V
CY01 | 47n cer. | 22u/16V in parallel
RF01/RY11 | 4,7R | 220uH/3R3

Now when I power up the player, the lens is going crazy.
At first I tought I forgot to plug JW01, as it once happened, but it's well fitted.

What could I check ?

Last edited by luke2fr; 6th April 2013 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 6th April 2013, 03:48 PM   #19197
6h5c is offline 6h5c  Netherlands
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I suspect there is an error in the parts around the decoder. I suggest you check your last work, the polarity of the electrolytics and look for broken pads, bad connections or solder splashes that may cause the problem.

Ray
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Old 6th April 2013, 04:41 PM   #19198
luke2fr is offline luke2fr  France
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I've put C116 and C120 as seen here : www.raylectronics.nl/pictures/cd67/CD57_Overview.jpg

I'm trying to remove and redo every cap and test one after one.
I guess JW01 and J103 are the only two needed to be plugged in order to check, am I right ?
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Old 6th April 2013, 05:52 PM   #19199
hotiron is offline hotiron  Scotland
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Get one of these.

Mini Pocket LED UV Jewellers Loupe 60x Microscope Glass Jewellery Magnifier Z34 | eBay

Just because you can't see it doesn't mean it's not there!
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Old 6th April 2013, 05:52 PM   #19200
6h5c is offline 6h5c  Netherlands
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Dunno, I guess you need JM02 as well to let the player know the tray is closed.

The front can remain unconnected AFAIK.
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