Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 1910 - diyAudio
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Old 9th March 2013, 11:09 PM   #19091
dwjames is offline dwjames  England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotiron View Post
Hi James those Green resistors (8 of them) between the op-amps and Hdam screen cans R613 R651 Etc. supply power to the output stages. There are also a couple of jumpers feeding these resistors I don't have the schematic for the 63 at hand but U223 and U224 look like the ones you need to snip. Check with your meter first!
Thanks
I've just gone over the schematics and from what I can work out, U216 gives +12v to the output stage inc headphones and U218 gives it -12v. But, remove those links and there's nothing at all attached to the 78m12 reg's output and almost nothing on the 79m12 (I can't work out what u227 leads to)
I can also see now how pointless upgrading the c803-c806 caps is on my machine.... Oh well, always learning
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Old 10th March 2013, 08:15 PM   #19092
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Hi
I have recently started modding my 15 year old KI mkII. I have replaced the RCA output sockets with gold-plated Neutriks. I removed the muting transistors and the dc blocking caps. Replaced C611-C614 with the Elna Silmics dc blocking caps I removed earlier. Wired from HDAM to the RCA sockets.
The DC offset I measure out of right channel is 7mv, but out of the left channel its 50mv. Im not worried about this, since my amp has dc blocking on input. What could be the reason for this difference of dc offset?
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Old 12th March 2013, 11:14 PM   #19093
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Default Short list for the CD63SE

Can anyone suggest the top 5 or 10 mods for the 63 SE? The ones that yield the most improvement for the effort/cost. I have already replaced the output RCA's with VdH's through necessity after 1 jack developed a intermittent connection. I have looked at the list on the first page and the TNT-audio site, but not sure where to start. (I promise to try someday to read through all 1910 pages of this thread)
Thanks!
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Old 14th March 2013, 02:24 PM   #19094
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefanom View Post
Hi
The DC offset I measure out of right channel is 7mv, but out of the left channel its 50mv. Im not worried about this, since my amp has dc blocking on input. What could be the reason for this difference of dc offset?
Just component tolerance I guess.

Simon
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Old 14th March 2013, 02:31 PM   #19095
SimontY is offline SimontY  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heathkit View Post
Can anyone suggest the top 5 or 10 mods for the 63 SE?
Hmm, it's been a while but the TOP ones should include:
* servo re-clock
* DAC re-clock
* servo driver IC regulators (x6), preferably fed from their own transformer / PSU
* output op-amps
* DC blocking output caps bypass

Do these 5 and you will have a KILLER machine.

Simon
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Old 14th March 2013, 09:18 PM   #19096
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the same goes for the 67 MK2, right?
how actively answer is the coax mod and what should I do?
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Old 15th March 2013, 06:34 PM   #19097
RCruz is offline RCruz  Switzerland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredimania View Post
the same goes for the 67 MK2, right?
how actively answer is the coax mod and what should I do?
In the 67, Servo and DAC share the same clock.

Also in 67 servo drive is allready regulated if I recall correctly
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Old 16th March 2013, 09:48 PM   #19098
lymmlad is offline lymmlad  England
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Thought I'd give an update on how my mods are progressing. It's slow going since I am still a newbie at this stuff (but learning), and I need help from a friend Chris, registered on this site who is very kindly giving me loads of assistance with this project, and checking voltages, etc. Also, many thanks to those on this site who have given lots of help.

So far I have set up power supplies in a second box, another Marantz CD63SE, for the new DAC clock, servo clock and the power supply for the servo itself. These feed the original player via XLR sockets and separate interconnects. I have also bypassed the HDAM, fitted new opamps (LME49720HA), fitted new caps in this area, removed the muting circuit and disconnected the headphones.

I set up the clocks on Ray's flea boards, and mounted these in the player as daughter-boards, but used different components to Ray's. These daughter-boards are located near the original clocks.

I happen to have a very expensive Katana SACD player on loan from a friend at the mo. This player was not commercially available in its time but would have retailed at over 10K, and this was a good comparison for my new modded player. There was not a great deal in it, but the Katana just came out tops not surprising given the price difference! I checked frequency extremes, and here neither came out on top (I thought the bass would have been tighter on the Kat, but not so.) The Kat has a slightly lower noise floor resulting in a smidgen more space round singers/instruments, and is a little sweeter-sounding in the mid than my Marantz. But all-in-all not a bad performance from the Marantz, especially since the components have not been given time yet to become fully optimised.

I thought I would tackle the power supply for the output stage next. What do those on here think: will this give me the next biggest improvement?
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Old 17th March 2013, 07:53 AM   #19099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lymmlad View Post
Thought I'd give an update on how my mods are progressing. It's slow going since I am still a newbie at this stuff (but learning), and I need help from a friend – Chris, registered on this site – who is very kindly giving me loads of assistance with this project, and checking voltages, etc. Also, many thanks to those on this site who have given lots of help.

So far I have set up power supplies in a second box, another Marantz CD63SE, for the new DAC clock, servo clock and the power supply for the servo itself. These feed the original player via XLR sockets and separate interconnects. I have also bypassed the HDAM, fitted new opamps (LME49720HA), fitted new caps in this area, removed the muting circuit and disconnected the headphones.

I set up the clocks on Ray's flea boards, and mounted these in the player as daughter-boards, but used different components to Ray's. These daughter-boards are located near the original clocks.

I happen to have a very expensive Katana SACD player on loan from a friend at the mo. This player was not commercially available in its time but would have retailed at over 10K, and this was a good comparison for my new modded player. There was not a great deal in it, but the Katana just came out tops – not surprising given the price difference! I checked frequency extremes, and here neither came out on top (I thought the bass would have been tighter on the Kat, but not so.) The Kat has a slightly lower noise floor resulting in a smidgen more space round singers/instruments, and is a little sweeter-sounding in the mid than my Marantz. But all-in-all not a bad performance from the Marantz, especially since the components have not been given time yet to become fully optimised.

I thought I would tackle the power supply for the output stage next. What do those on here think: will this give me the next biggest improvement?
Good work. You have done most of the modding work. I would suggest you should change the 7812 and 7912 regulators for the analogue rail by two low noise voltage regulators of + and - 15V as it will perform better for the opamps (if your external psu have not done so). You may also try discrete opamps to replace your 49720HAs. At the same time feed independent low noise 5V regulated voltage to the servo, the decoder and the DAC. I noticed that you have not changed the filtering caps for the servo, DAC and decoders etc and these should also be changed. The last thing you could do is to consider inserting a relay operated muting circuit to get rid of the annoying cracking noise when switching off your CD63. Hope the above can help.

The following photos show two of the CD63s I have modded (see thread number 19021 and 19029):
Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list

As to the SQ the modded CD63 beats my previously owned Leema Antila IIS costing more than 3000 pounds and as such I sold the Leema in the Bay.

Last edited by higlander; 17th March 2013 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 17th March 2013, 08:34 PM   #19100
lymmlad is offline lymmlad  England
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"Good work. You have done most of the modding work. I would suggest you should change the 7812 and 7912 regulators for the analogue rail by two low noise voltage regulators of + and - 15V as it will perform better for the opamps (if your external psu have not done so). You may also try discrete opamps to replace your 49720HAs. At the same time feed independent low noise 5V regulated voltage to the servo, the decoder and the DAC. I noticed that you have not changed the filtering caps for the servo, DAC and decoders etc and these should also be changed. The last thing you could do is to consider inserting a relay operated muting circuit to get rid of the annoying cracking noise when switching off your CD63. Hope the above can help."

Hi Higlander,

Thanks for your comments. From your list, I have already regulated the power supply to the servo and DAC via a 5-Volt S-power regulated supply. The transformer, diodes, and smoothing caps (mounted on separate daughter boards in the 'power supply' case) feed DC to the 5-Volt regulator on the flea board (in the main player) which also carry the clocks. The clocks are hard-wired down to the board.

For the servo power supply, I have separate daughter boards (one + and one -) in the 'power supply' case each carrying diodes, smoothing cap, 12-Volt S-power regulator, further smoothing cap feeding the main player, again hard-wired down to the main board. Sorry for my ignorance, but does this mean I also have to "change the filtering caps for the servo, DAC and decoders etc"? Have I not done this already?

I have not done anything about the power supply for the output stage yet. When I set up a separate transformer, diodes, smoothing cap, s-power regulators, etc, will this make an appreciable difference?

Thanks again for your comments.
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