Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 1904 - diyAudio
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Old 4th February 2013, 12:38 AM   #19031
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How confident are you with a soldering iron and following schematics? What's your budget like, and how far are you looking to take it in the long run? In either case I'd probably suggest starting with some simple capacitor upgrades, e.g. A big cap before the 5v reg and on output smoothers (e.g. Mundorf AG 25v 22,000uF) some high quality power caps for op-amps, e.g. Rubycons. It's also becoming very popular to upgrade the power supply, particularly for the servo section.
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Old 4th February 2013, 05:48 PM   #19032
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Hi Ben I am very good with a soldering iron and can read a circuit diagram, I'm an ex TV & Video engineer. I have been looking at all the mods and just donít know where to start!! I donít really have a budget although my wife may have something to say about that lol!! I was thinking of putting in a low jitter clock first I have been looking at the Trichord Clock 4 or is there a better one? Or is there something else I should be doing before putting the clock in, all advise would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 4th February 2013, 08:47 PM   #19033
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Originally Posted by patricma1 View Post
Hi Ben I am very good with a soldering iron and can read a circuit diagram, I'm an ex TV & Video engineer. I have been looking at all the mods and just donít know where to start!! I donít really have a budget although my wife may have something to say about that lol!! I was thinking of putting in a low jitter clock first I have been looking at the Trichord Clock 4 or is there a better one? Or is there something else I should be doing before putting the clock in, all advise would be greatly appreciated.
Since you are good at soldering and can read circuit diagrams I suggest you go thro' the few pages in the following link and then you should have better idea as to what should be done to make your CD63 sing . GOOD Luck.

Marantz CD63 Basic upgrade overview / guide
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Old 5th February 2013, 02:35 AM   #19034
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My personal opinion/impression (based on the observations and writing of others as well as my own experience) is that the 63KI has a number of qualities and components in stock form that simultaneously act as 'veils' to the sound quality while covering deficiencies elsewhere, resulting in a very pleasant sound that is not as revealing as it could be. The jittery clock is one such veil, along with the HDAMs and back-to-back Silmics in the output path. The risk you run by removing these veils before addressing shortcomings elsewhere can be to make the player sound harsh. I personally couldn't stand my player with the clocks and output done but no upgraded servo supply. Others may disagree though - my tweeters on my B&Ws are very unforgiving of any harshness in the top end.
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Last edited by Ben Hanke; 5th February 2013 at 02:41 AM.
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Old 5th February 2013, 06:32 AM   #19035
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Originally Posted by Ben Hanke View Post
The risk you run by removing these veils before addressing shortcomings elsewhere can be to make the player sound harsh. I personally couldn't stand my player with the clocks and output done but no upgraded servo supply. Others may disagree though - my tweeters on my B&Ws are very unforgiving of any harshness in the top end.
It is strange to hear that your CD63 sounds harsh at the top ends after modding
From my experience I have modded two CD63, one SE and one KI and I found the top ends are very smooth and will not cause fatigue even on very long time listening using either speakers or headphones. Do you thing your problem is in your amplifier or the speakers?
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Old 5th February 2013, 07:57 AM   #19036
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It sounds awesome now, but has sounded harsh on occasion in the past when trying certain things. It's not my amp or speakers' fault - they are just revealing of flaws upstream, particularly over-emphasis of high frequencies. My turntable always sounds tonally balanced, and I use that as a reference.
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Old 5th February 2013, 07:59 AM   #19037
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Haven't you always started by beefing up the PSU anyway? I thought that was your thing

Anyway, if every mod you've tried has resulted in an improvement then I'm happy for you, but my journey has been a little bit more like Snakes and Ladders...
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Last edited by Ben Hanke; 5th February 2013 at 08:06 AM.
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Old 5th February 2013, 08:08 AM   #19038
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What I did was to diable the headphone circuit and HDMA first and changed the opamps. After that I changed most of the caps, big and small. Then follow by voltage regulators and low jitter clocks. Changing the PSU was last in the queue. The modding work was completed by adding the muting relay. That was the sequence.
From my experence change the PSU has big improvement on the clarity and transparancy of music with better sound staging. It is worth to try.

Last edited by higlander; 5th February 2013 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 5th February 2013, 01:00 PM   #19039
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Well, the 2 fleas are wonderful and they improved the SQ by a lot. Thank you Ray for producing the wonderful clocks. Yes, solder pads on the fleas to accommodate copper cover cans will save me from using double sided adhesive tapes. I believe these pads will also provide earthing connection as well.
Thanks for the compliment

But I can only take credit for drawing the board...
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Old 5th February 2013, 03:29 PM   #19040
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higlander, after you disabled the HDAM and changed the op-amps, did you not find your player bass-light? You use Burson, right?

I found LM4562HA and no HDAM lacking in bass without a beefier PSU if I remember correctly. Another thing I tried that adversely affected the tonal balance was tagging small WIMA 100n caps across my Black Gates. I'm still on my first player though so perhaps I had a fault somewhere from time to time.

Anyway, everyone's tastes and systems are different I suppose. My point was I think order matters and it may get worse before it gets better. "It'll be alright in the end. If it isn't alright, it's not the end."

Lots of people must've started with a clock, so maybe that's OK.
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