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Old 23rd December 2012, 01:08 PM   #18931
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Location: Chennai / India
Quote:
Originally Posted by badrisuper View Post
Hi All,
My CD53 door wheel teeth are broken. Can anyone please suggest a good door eject wheel?

Thanks
Badri
My player's Door eject wheel is broken. can it be replaced? Or do i need to change the whole thing? If any available in ebay can you please the link? Thanks in advance.

Thanks
Badri
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Old 23rd December 2012, 03:28 PM   #18932
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badrisuper View Post
My player's Door eject wheel is broken. can it be replaced? Or do i need to change the whole thing? If any available in ebay can you please the link? Thanks in advance.

Thanks
Badri
No need to bump its not polite!!! I'm sure many of the helpful people who regularly assist with this thread are very busy with Xmas preparation!!!!

Personally never seen or heard of a broken one and never seen them for sale. How on earth did you manage that??
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When Bitstream came out, I thought, “my God, what are we going to do...?” Ken Ishiwata http://www.hifisounds.co.uk
JA-88D Class A, Audio Aero Capitole MKII, Focal and Kimber "Leave Nothing as Standard"
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Old 23rd December 2012, 10:01 PM   #18933
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merry xmas ian and all the guys on here,
keep bikin and modding .
alan
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Old 24th December 2012, 12:38 AM   #18934
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Originally Posted by UV101 View Post
No need to bump its not polite!!! I'm sure many of the helpful people who regularly assist with this thread are very busy with Xmas preparation!!!!

Personally never seen or heard of a broken one and never seen them for sale. How on earth did you manage that??
Merry christmas and Happy New Year to all. Thanks UV101. Its not my intention to bump. I bought the player as it is. Now when I press the eject buttton the door got stuck in the middle. I checked the reason, most of the teeth in that gear worn out. Now I am manually pulling out the door to change a cd. I am trying to find a replacement.

Last edited by badrisuper; 24th December 2012 at 12:42 AM.
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Old 27th December 2012, 07:51 AM   #18935
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Merry Christmas everyone!

Badri,I notice that there is an eBay seller selling the loading gear now! Problem is its quite expensive. I had a look but I don't have a spare transport otherwise I'd have helped
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When Bitstream came out, I thought, “my God, what are we going to do...?” Ken Ishiwata http://www.hifisounds.co.uk
JA-88D Class A, Audio Aero Capitole MKII, Focal and Kimber "Leave Nothing as Standard"
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Old 27th December 2012, 08:03 AM   #18936
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Thanks UV101. If we both are right, the ebay seller from Malaysia who is charging 34$ for a belt and gear. But I got a original one from a local seller for 4$. I may get 1 more.

Thanks
Badri
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Old 27th December 2012, 08:07 AM   #18937
Pocoyo is offline Pocoyo  Indonesia
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i bought from him too but not arrived yet
maybe delayed in christmas season cause
a lot of mail, card and present arrived

Merry Christmas everyone

Last edited by Pocoyo; 27th December 2012 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 27th December 2012, 08:52 AM   #18938
Pocoyo is offline Pocoyo  Indonesia
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this picture take from page 11 post 115 by SimontY

i want to desolder c651, c652, c653 and c654
is there any mods to do or jumper to solder ?

i removed R651 - R654, R617/618 and RH23/24
and Insert wire jumper at R619/620 already

best regards
Attached Images
File Type: jpg nohdam.jpg (88.0 KB, 139 views)
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Old 27th December 2012, 11:24 PM   #18939
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Is that picture your player? If so you have completely bypassed the HDAM and linked the output stage output direct to the output. If the output phonos are still connected to the PCB, you will still have the muting transistors in circuit and by linking those caps out will be feeding the sound into the output of the HDAM??

Std is
Dac > Opamp and filter > HDAM > DC blocking caps (silmics) > muting > phono sockets

Ideally you want
Dac > Opamp and filter > phono sockets

It looks like you have achieved a quite remarkable hybrid that I've never seen previously
DAC > opamp and filter > phono sockets > muting > links where the DC blocking caps were > HDAM (backwards and without power)

Either fit new sockets directly on the end of the output from the Opamp and filter section or removed the components that are now feeding the audio backwards into the muting stage, linked out caps and Dead HDAM!

Grab the manual and work out the signal path!!
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When Bitstream came out, I thought, “my God, what are we going to do...?” Ken Ishiwata http://www.hifisounds.co.uk
JA-88D Class A, Audio Aero Capitole MKII, Focal and Kimber "Leave Nothing as Standard"
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Old 29th December 2012, 12:00 PM   #18940
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Originally Posted by higlander View Post
During the process of modding my 2nd CD63 I accidentally blew up Q106 (Dual opamp TCA0372). Actually there was an minor explosion blowing off the top of the IC leave big hole behind !!! I could also see sparks
This happened after I changed some of the caps and I suspected that there was a short circuit somewhere caused by the remains of either the left over solders or the copper wire legs of the caps leaving behind on the PCB.
Luckily when I switched on the player it could start up but only could not read any CD. The drawers could open and close. I hope it will work again when I change the damaged IC. I have just ordered one from the Bay for about £5.
In future I will ensure the inside of the PCB are clear before switching on the power.
Returned from holiday yesterday and this morning I changed the burnt out opamp Q106 (TCA0372). The CD63 works like a charm again. Actually I did not do anything apart from cleaning up the entire PCB to ensure there is no left over solder. Now I can continue with the remaining modding work
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