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#18661 |
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is choosing a less facetious title...
diyAudio Member
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this would be very prone to noise pickup
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#18662 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
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#18663 |
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One Seriously Addicted to Audio and Electronics
diyAudio Member
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Hi,
You can clock two chips with the Flea, one on each output. If you use tightly twisted wire or thin coax, you will have no noise issues. Just make sure you disable the PCB track that runs on the board from the DAC to the decoder, a lot of people forget that. Remove RD14 and a few wire-jumpers. If you leave the unused trace connected to the clock signal at one side, then you'll have a noise-antenna :-) If you are using a CD57/67, make sure to connect the clock to the other side of R104, which would be pin 21 (CRIN) of the SAA7372. Marantz used pin 22 (CROUT) ![]() The schematic is correct, but look at the board traces... ![]() Ray Last edited by 6h5c; 27th October 2012 at 08:49 AM. |
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#18664 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
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Quote:
BTW are the two O/Ps just connected together without any buffered separation ? |
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#18665 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
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Today I finished connecting the three Tx onto my CD63 and they work like a charm. I have posted up a few photos to show what I have done so far.
You can see my 4X22000uF smoothing capacitors and their leads are surrounded by copper foils which I have earthed to get rid of interference. The case is also heavily damped. The analogue rails are fitted with Korean built +15V and -15V low noise voltage regulators. Two Burson discrete opamps are fitted. You can also see that most of the capacitors are changed to Rubycon ZLG, Sanyo SEPC and WIMA caps. The sound quality is really nice and the bass is so tight and deep. When Ray's two low jitter clocks arrive I will feed independent 16.xx and 8.xxMhz signals to the DAC and the Decoder as well as the servo. Afterwards I will build five low noise voltage regulators using LT-1763-5 to provide independent power supply to the servo, DAC and Decoder etc. Then I think the mod is considered complete by that time. |
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#18666 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
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I forgot to mention that all rectifier diodes were changed to Vishay 1n5062.
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#18667 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: walsall west mids uk
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Quote:
alan
__________________
Aint broke it yet but im tryin. ( favs Fast women and even faster bikes)
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#18668 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hey guys, just an update on the individual DAC analogue PSU. Definitely subtle gains for the cost and, perhaps more importantly, space. However, after a few days with it, I feel as though it sounds tonally the same but less distorted and more capable, similar to when I doubled up the transformers in my amp (a la Brent). Definitely a worthwhile mod but only after other PSU and clock mods, I'd say.
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Modified Marantz CD63KI -> Modified PM66KI -> B&W 805S |
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#18669 |
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One Seriously Addicted to Audio and Electronics
diyAudio Member
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The outputs are not buffered, but connected to the output of the Tentlabs XO through a 33R resistor.
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#18670 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Ray,
Today I changed C813 caps to 10,000uf/25v Mundorf AG. I felt it becomes dry, treble is totally rolled of, earlier I had Nichicon FW 4700uf. Is it because of the value is too much than required? Or it need time to burn in? Thanks Badri |
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