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Old 23rd October 2012, 12:28 PM   #18641
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Hi UV101,

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Originally Posted by UV101 View Post
I've not seen one of these with DC on the output. Something doesn't sound right.
Can you please let me know what could be wrong?


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Badri
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Old 23rd October 2012, 02:42 PM   #18642
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Something in the output stage. Have you removed or changed any resistors near the opamps? Are all the caps you have changed the correct value??
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Old 23rd October 2012, 03:01 PM   #18643
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I think without any DC blockers there could be minor inbalances in the opamps and thus a few mV DC present in the output of the CD63. For me the RCA has about 20-30mV DC bearing in mind that I haven't used any DC blockers. If a blocker is to be used as you said I will use at least 4.7uF audiophile quality caps.
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Old 23rd October 2012, 03:18 PM   #18644
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I didnt change any resistor but I changed most of the capacitors to BG and Silver Mica 1%. The measurement is 33.2mV in Left channel and 14.5 in Right Channel. I am following Ray's list. And changed opamp to LM4562.

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Old 23rd October 2012, 03:45 PM   #18645
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Hey Ian, if I'm using it right, according to that V-Cap calculator I should get a -3dB of 1.46Hz and optimal response at 14.61Hz with a 3.3uF capacitor with my amp's input impedance of 33kOhms. That's plenty low enough for my two-way B&Ws.
I'll have a listen tonight!
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Old 23rd October 2012, 05:23 PM   #18646
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badrisuper View Post
I didnt change any resistor but I changed most of the capacitors to BG and Silver Mica 1%. The measurement is 33.2mV in Left channel and 14.5 in Right Channel. I am following Ray's list. And changed opamp to LM4562.

Thanks
Badri
Ah! Millivolts!!!!! That's ok then. Unless you have an expensive meter it will be reading out anyway. You could try swapping the opamps round to see if you can lower the 33mV reading. Your amp will have DC blocking on the input anyway (most likely).

I'm sure I started with 2.2uF and went up to 4.7uF when I changed to supremes. I think your amp will play a role in what's going on. If cost and size was not a factor, I'd go bigger!!
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Old 24th October 2012, 04:50 AM   #18647
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My PSU didn't work, as I kinda expected. It's measuring the correct DC against it's own ground but has no potential against the player's. I feel like I have to bring the grounds together somehow. My first thought was to wire from the negative terminal of the smoothing cap to the regulator ground pin, which would connect it to the PCB ground, but I don't want to break anything through experimentation. Any tips from someone who's done this already? Ian?....
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Old 24th October 2012, 05:45 AM   #18648
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Originally Posted by Ben Hanke View Post
My first thought was to wire from the negative terminal of the smoothing cap to the regulator ground pin, which would connect it to the PCB ground
That is the correct way. Don't worry the way you connect the grounds together will not fry your kits .
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Old 24th October 2012, 07:36 AM   #18649
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Yep, that worked like a charm - thanks higlander. I now have my left and right channel DAC analogue pins running off a separate supply each. Wow, the charge on these caps lasts forever after powering down. It's too early to say how it's affected the sound. I listened to a couple of albums from cold and it started out not seeming much different but then seemed to sound more clear and capable as time went on. I'm excited to do the others now!
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Old 24th October 2012, 07:41 AM   #18650
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Yep, that worked like a charm - thanks higlander. I now have my left and right channel DAC analogue pins running off a separate supply each. Wow, the charge on these caps lasts forever after powering down. It's too early to say how it's affected the sound. I listened to a couple of albums from cold and it started out not seeming much different but then seemed to sound more clear and capable as time went on. I'm excited to do the others now!
It is really nice to hear you have made the kit to work
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