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Old 22nd October 2012, 06:22 PM   #18631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Hanke View Post
Mine are wired to the original IEC socket ground
RCA! The RCA socket ground! Not the IEC. OMG

@badrisuper Hint: The RCA sockets that you removed only had two connections per channel - signal and ground. You've already connected one of them.
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Last edited by Ben Hanke; 22nd October 2012 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 22nd October 2012, 10:35 PM   #18632
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Seriously, if you cannot identify the original output gnd connection, you really shouldn't be poking around in the player.

Why don't you have a look and the PCB and point it out to me and then I'll help!!!!
sorry couldnt help it ian im gunna fit some new opamps i got a blow lamp.
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Old 22nd October 2012, 10:49 PM   #18633
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Basic electronic theory is a help before you decide to try to modify these players we are all here to help,All of us started somewhere.
alan
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Old 23rd October 2012, 06:19 AM   #18634
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Originally Posted by UV101 View Post
Seriously, if you cannot identify the original output gnd connection, you really shouldn't be poking around in the player.

Why don't you have a look and the PCB and point it out to me and then I'll help!!!!
Thanks UV101. Please see the picture. Is it right? And I did read the DC, in right channel 14.2 and in left channel 33.8. Any suggestions.

Thanks
Badri
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Old 23rd October 2012, 07:34 AM   #18635
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Get a pair of good quality output caps such as Mundorf Silver/Oil 2.2uF - 4.7uF and run that signal wire through them. I got a matched pair of 3.3uF from Parts Connexion. They will block the DC for you.
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Old 23rd October 2012, 08:06 AM   #18636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Hanke View Post
Get a pair of good quality output caps such as Mundorf Silver/Oil 2.2uF - 4.7uF and run that signal wire through them. I got a matched pair of 3.3uF from Parts Connexion. They will block the DC for you.
Thanks Ben, Can you please post pictures of yours. I have K71 Russian Cap 1.2uf value. Is that enough?

Thanks
Badri
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Old 23rd October 2012, 08:47 AM   #18637
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I don't have a pic of them to hand, I'm afraid. They're axial caps. The exact value required is based on the input impedance of your amp and desired low frequency rolloff. You can calculate the value you want here: Coupling Capacitor Calculator by V-Cap
My guess is your Russian caps will probably work just fine.
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Old 23rd October 2012, 11:05 AM   #18638
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I don't have a pic of them to hand, I'm afraid. They're axial caps. The exact value required is based on the input impedance of your amp and desired low frequency rolloff. You can calculate the value you want here: Coupling Capacitor Calculator by V-Cap
My guess is your Russian caps will probably work just fine.
Thanks Ben. Now the distortion gone. And I used Russian capacitor. Not bad, bass is controlled and very good but i feel like i it is little slow. I have to find a suitable cap. Any Suggestion.

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Badri
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Old 23rd October 2012, 11:38 AM   #18639
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Cool. Further to my previous post, here's a link to a well-regarded output cap:

Mundorf Silver/Oil Series Film Capacitors

It's probably best to get a value between 2.2uF and 4.7uF. I personally chose 3.3uF.

By the way, you might want to let the Russian caps settle in a bit before you cast definitive judgement.

In other news, I fitted the first of my dual 15v supplies this evening. It's tested and ready to hook up to the DAC analogue regs tomorrow.
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Last edited by Ben Hanke; 23rd October 2012 at 11:43 AM.
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Old 23rd October 2012, 12:31 PM   #18640
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I've not seen one of these with DC on the output. Something doesn't sound right.

Cap wise, I've not used lower than 4.7uF althought I know Brent was running 2.2uF with his dos. I believe a lower value can start to effect the bass. If you are buying new caps, I'd go for 4.7uF but you may be ok with 3.3uF as Ben suggested.

When will you have a listen Ben?????
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