Marantz CD63 & CD67 mods list - Page 1859 - diyAudio
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Old 17th October 2012, 08:17 PM   #18581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben Hanke View Post
Mundorf AG snap-in caps are under 8 quid at PCX right now. Limited stocks available. These caps are perfect for the CD63 and you dont need to drill the PCB to fit - just solder about a centimeter length of wire. It helps to remove the remote bus switch that nobody ever uses.

To run 2 clocks, I found it worked well to get a small toroid with dual secondaries and build 2 separate PSUs on one compact board.

Click the image to open in full size.
Hi Ben,

Nice work !! Did you make your own clock or is it available in the market ? I like it because it is SMALL
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Old 17th October 2012, 08:36 PM   #18582
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Hi Ben,
OH, I found it. It is Ray's product.
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Old 19th October 2012, 04:11 PM   #18583
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Hi All,
Today I tried to remove these C655...658. If I remove these do i need to solder jumper in these places?

Thanks
Badri
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Old 19th October 2012, 04:24 PM   #18584
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Yes.

Ultimately if you're also bypassing HDAM and muting then you can wire direct from the op-amps output to a good quality pair of RCA connectors and, optionally, decent film caps at least 2.2uF or above (I rely on the 3.3uF blocking caps after the input selection board in my amp).

If you're removing the back-to-back blocking caps and not replacing them with film caps, make sure you don't have significant DC bias before connecting to your amp!
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Old 19th October 2012, 04:47 PM   #18585
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Today I removed all these components
C655...658
C659/660
R651...654
R655/656
R657/658
U210/214
QN05...08

But no sound. I later solder jumpered for these positions C655...658. Still no sound. Please tell me where and all I need to solder jumpers or replacement components and what value. Mine is CD53, so no HDAM.

Thanks
Badri
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Old 19th October 2012, 04:49 PM   #18586
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I've been assessing the available space for PSUs. It's tight, but I have space for 3 7VA toroids with dual secondaries on the back panel by the IEC and room for 6 of the big filter caps down by the deleted headphone socket. So I was thinking of doing separate analogue supplies for DAC, decoder and ... what's the other IC again? Servo control?

The question I have is how to connect them? It seems I'll have to take long wires along either the front or back panel. Where should I put the rectifier bridge? By the transformers for long DC wires or by the caps for long AC wires? I seem to remember Simon saying long AC wires are preferable, so that would mean having 6 pairs of long 9V AC wires needing to cross the diagonal of the case somehow without introducing noise. Any suggestions? Should I twist the wires or use shielding?

Also, with this plan, the 6 filter caps would be quite close to the decoder. Is that a concern?

Thanks guys
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Old 19th October 2012, 08:32 PM   #18587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badrisuper View Post
Today I removed all these components
C655...658
C659/660
R651...654
R655/656
R657/658
U210/214
QN05...08

But no sound. I later solder jumpered for these positions C655...658. Still no sound. Please tell me where and all I need to solder jumpers or replacement components and what value. Mine is CD53, so no HDAM.

Thanks
Badri
C655-658 are output caps
C659&60 wont stop the sound as they are filtering on the output
R651-654 are PSU for the HDAM so if the audio is bypassing the HDAM this is fine otherwise you will get no sound (default in your player as there is no HDAM)
R657 and 658 are in the signal path after the output caps
U210 and 214 take the output from the dac to the HDAM section
The transistors are for muting after the Caps and resistors you have removed.

What you have done it remove components from the signal path without consideration for where the signal will end up. By removing the wire links U210 and 214, the audio output stops after the opamp section and goes nowhere.

Link from the opamp side of wire links you removed direct to the output phono's of the player. This will bypass everything after the opamp & filter stage.

I must say, you really should be looking to understand some basics in the service manual before you make these sorts of modifications!!!!
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Old 19th October 2012, 09:01 PM   #18588
UV101 is offline UV101  England
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This pic shows the signal path from the Opamp filter stage to the output photos.

You have removed various components from the signal path. Now you must reinstate a direct path to the output

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 19th October 2012, 09:01 PM   #18589
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Just reworked my crossovers replaced the 30 yr old caps with some paper in oil wow,What an improvement, Removed the protection circuit 2 poly switches. (ceramic caps) and did the diodes in my 63 for some ultra fast ones vishay 1n5062s next a c2 order one mon am.
cheers guys alan
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Old 19th October 2012, 09:04 PM   #18590
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Further to Ian's warning, while many of the common mods detailed in this forum and associated lists are a well-traveled path, you should really try to not do too much in one sitting without testing and listening to the effects to make sure it's a step in the direction that you want to go.

I've tried some things in my player that have worked well for other people but haven't appealed to me. I've also broken it and fixed it lots of times just doing the simplest thing.

So I recommend you make the changes slowly and carefully or risk bricking it or ending up something you can't stand to listen to.
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